HELP I DID A THING! i1200insert

[ddddddden]

I too don't know about your code specifics. I think you're supposed to have 1 or 2" clearance between the liner and the terracotta tiles. If this clearance is not met, or if tiles are cracked, or mortar missing, you're supposed to insulate the liner. Most think it improves draft too. Don't forget a block off plate at the damper area to keep more of the heat in your house.

Edit: Looks like the tiles being cracked etc. is about whether or not you can use the terracotta chimney(assuming the size is correct for your stove) or have to put in a liner.

 

[bholler]

I think you're supposed to have 1 or 2" clearance between the liner and the terracotta tiles. If this clearance is not met, or if tiles are cracked, or mortar missing, you're supposed to insulate the liner. Most think it improves draft too.

Well that is close but the clearance has to be between the outside of the chimney structure and any combustible material. It is 1" for an external chimney and 2" for internal. And the condition of the clay tiles does not matter at all. I do know the clearance numbers for canada are slightly different and I dont know them off hand but it is the same idea.

 

[rwhite]

Does anything change if I have a terra cotter liner already in place or will i still have to go with a per-insulated liner.

You have to have 2" between the outside of the masonry chimney and any combustibles other wise you need to insulate. This is something your going to put inside a masonry chimney and probably never see again other than to clean the inside. The insulation was worth the $250 for piece of mind and performance.

 

[Squisher]

Well that is close but the clearance has to be between the outside of the chimney structure and any combustible material. It is 1" for an external chimney and 2" for internal. And the condition of the clay tiles does not matter at all. I do know the clearance numbers for canada are slightly different and I dont know them off hand but it is the same idea.

Our clearances are the same in this regard 1" exterior 2" interior. This is clearance to combustibles around the outside of the masonry chimney.

 

[beermann]

Our clearances are the same in this regard 1" exterior 2" interior. This is clearance to combustibles around the outside of the masonry chimney.

I will be going pre-insulated. Thank you and everyone else for clarifying this info for me. you are all a lot of help.

 

[beermann]

Whats with this review I see. watch from 45 seconds and on "GONG" the heck is that noise?

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[bholler]

Whats with this review I see. watch from 45 seconds and on "GONG" the heck is that noise?

It is obviously something moving due to thermal expansion. But we have no clue what it is I can tell you I have never heard that on a regency. We have no idea what temps he was at or what his install is like so it is very hard to say any more than that.

 

[beermann]

It is obviously something moving due to thermal expansion. But we have no clue what it is I can tell you I have never heard that on a regency. We have no idea what temps he was at or what his install is like so it is very hard to say any more than that.

Well then it's a good thing I have you guys to guide me along.

 

[begreen]

Remember that we mostly get folks having problems here that they are trying to solve. Reviews can be skewed if written during a period of frustration. Defects and problems do occur, but for every problem we see here there are often thousands of satisfied customers.

 

[beermann]

And here it is. First thing I was impressed with was the blower. On high I can feel it clear across the room 20' and I'm thinking it's gonna really warm us in the living room.

If I can meet my clearances by having it completely recessed inside then I may just put the doors back up and open them all the way when it's in use. How much performance will I be losing if I did that? Can't be much since the backing plate when attached would sit less than an inch behind the doors (photo attached it's the one with my hand) would I get more out of the unit by recessing it and adding more air circulation around the recessed stove? Just a thought.

Thanks for talking me into it guys.

 

[ddddddden]

Doo it!
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/anyone-burn-an-insert-without-the-surround.80297/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/getting-more-heat-out-of-an-insert.107114/

 

[beermann]

Doo it!
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/anyone-burn-an-insert-without-the-surround.80297/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/getting-more-heat-out-of-an-insert.107114/

I'm still not sure if it can bypass clearance standards if it's recessed into the fireplace.

 

[Attaboy]

Whats with this review I see. watch from 45 seconds and on "GONG" the heck is that noise?

That is the sound of metal quickly expanding, you have a roaring fire in there, suspect the metal may be expanding too quickly, try reducing the intensity of your fire a bit to allow the metal to heat up and expand at a slower rate, it will limit the chance or occurrence of damage such as welds cracking.

 

[rwhite]

I'm still not sure if it can bypass clearance standards if it's recessed into the fireplace.

The manual doesn't list any reduced clearances so I would say no. It looks as if your close to meeting clearances as it is. You need 14" of the top and 7 3/8 of the sides, 16" to the front, and 20" to the mantle if it protrudes. What are your measurements from the top outter edge of the stove to wood? Put a block off plate in the chimney and paint the interior of the fireplace black with high temp paint and leave the surround of. I'll bet it will look great.

 

[beermann]

To the mantle I am 8" side except where it begins to arc, I am 6" to the mantle from there, 12" to top of mantle, 9" on front. I am also not 2" raised on the front.

so I need at least 3.5" (raising heath 1.5") on top and about that much where it arc begins to curve, 7" added to the front heath (measured from blower) and It needs to be raise 1.5"

 

[beermann]

The manual doesn't list any reduced clearances so I would say no. It looks as if your close to meeting clearances as it is. You need 14" of the top and 7 3/8 of the sides, 16" to the front, and 20" to the mantle if it protrudes. What are your measurements from the top outter edge of the stove to wood? Put a block off plate in the chimney and paint the interior of the fireplace black with high temp paint and leave the surround of. I'll bet it will look great.

Calling in a pro and then insurance to clarify the recessed idea

Painting the interior of the fireplace is a good idea.

 

[rwhite]

To the mantle I am 8" side except where it begins to arc, I am 6" to the mantle from there, 12" to top of mantle, 9" on front. I am also not 2" raised on the front.

so I need at least 3.5" (raising heath 1.5") on top and about that much where it arc begins to curve, 7" added to the front heath (measured from blower) and It needs to be raise 1.5"

You can put it on concrete pavers to raise it. Just pant them black to. I would cut the wood back 3-4" along the entire curve and just cut some brick to match and follow the curve around. Paint everything inside black and leave the surround off. In the future you can always have a "horseshoe " cut out of plate steel to fit inside the arc if you want. I would not use the surround on your set up in my opinion.

 

[beermann]

I agree about th surround. I don't like it. Posted it as a visual aid.

Under the mantel is all brick. Cutting it curved is not within my skill set. But ill figure something ouo if I decide to go that route.

Pavers are a quick fix idea that may look good. I'll consider this. Whatever I choose, unless it's a huge block, may need to be mortared in regardless.

Thanks for the input.

 

[rwhite]

I agree about th surround. I don't like it. Posted it as a visual aid.

Under the mantel is all brick. Cutting it curved is not within my skill set. But ill figure something ouo if I decide to go that route.

Pavers are a quick fix idea that may look good. I'll consider this. Whatever I choose, unless it's a huge block, may need to be mortared in regardless.

Thanks for the input.

Curves are easy. They make a marking tool but what's easier and cheaper is get a chunk of 2x2 and drill a hole in it the distance from end you want to cut. Put a pencil in the hole and just follow the brick around and trace the arc.
You won't need to mortar the pavers unless they need floated to be level. Once a 350lb stove is sitting on them they aren't going anywhere.

 

[ddddddden]

+1 for leaving off the surround. Looks much better, and many who have done this report that they get more heat into the room this way. Seems like sliding the stove back would give you more clearance between the stove and the wood flooring. AFAIK, moving the stove back or forth shouldn't matter, as long as you keep 16" between the front of the stove and the wood flooring. Seems like recessing the stove does not decrease the space between the stove and combustibles in any direction except the rear, and the back of the fireplace isn't combustible...never hurts to consult an expert though.

 

[beermann]

When it's recessed it clears everything but if I measure diagonally from the inside of the fireplace to the wood mantel I am 1" Short of making the clearance. Does that really matter?, the paperwork shows horizontal and vertical clearances and if I'm inside the fireplace then I'm good?

Also it looks like I'm missing an adapter on top? (see photo) Are these flue adapters universal or special order.

.....when recessed I can only pull the vent knob out around half way. Not being an experienced wood burner I can only assume that's not very good. Thanks guys.

 

[ddddddden]

Clearance is measured between the stove and the mantel, not the fireplace and mantel. Also, I think the mantel is more of a concern when it is the shelf type that projects out over the stove/fireplace. I would call what you have there a wall. I had to put a metal heat shield on my mantel, because it sticks out over the stove...wall was not an issue for me.

 

[ddddddden]

That flue adapter may be for connecting a short run of pipe to the terracotta flue. If you put a liner all the way up, I don't think you will need that, unless you use it for your block-off plate.

 

[beermann]

That flue adapter may be for connecting a short run of pipe to the terracotta flue. If you put a liner in the flue, I don't think you will need that, unless you use it for your block-off plate.

The inspector said over the phone I would tighten the flex pipe with screws or a clamp of some kind to the stove. But I think that means I should have something to connect it too. The instructions online say it has a 6" flue adapter. I did a search and got all kinds.

Maby it's as you say and it'll all come together when I install. I'll keep looking at how-to videos and see

 

[ddddddden]

You will need an "appliance adapter" to plug the end of the liner into the stove, just a little collar piece.

...when recessed I can only pull the vent knob out around half way...

Typically, the air control needs to be fully open only for start-up. You may be able to just leave the door cracked open for start-up, and the range of the lever may work for burning after start-up. Not sure if it's Kosher to have anything in the way of the lever though.