Help fixing bad install...

[begreen]

There is a roof support system, but it need something solid to rest on and be attached to.

 

[HomeinPA]

I thought since I asked a specific question that a new post was better. Thank you for merging.

In this picture you can see the drop down grid. Keep in mind that the furnace flue is getting removed and all new metal ductwork installed when new furnace gets in. The rock enclosure is also going away.

Do you think the drop down chase would be strong enough to support the pipe or do I need a support at the exit of chimney?
View attachment 238669View attachment 238670

Replace the entire deal with class-a. Cathedral ceiling support that finishes below drop ceiling. You may need an insulation shield also or a storm collar around the top of the support at minimum. And cheap pipe shouldn't be your determining factor. Get the right components and spend a little extra money if you have to. Do it right the first time and it won't need to be redone later.

 

[snaple4]

Replace the entire deal with class-a. Cathedral ceiling support that finishes below drop ceiling. You may need an insulation shield also or a storm collar around the top of the support at minimum. And cheap pipe shouldn't be your determining factor. Get the right components and spend a little extra money if you have to. Do it right the first time and it won't need to be redone later.

Looking at using metal-fab class a insulated double wall because I can get it locally. By specs and talking to supplier it looks like a quality product. Have you heard something different about the brand?

I was thinking about using the cathedral box to keep the ductwork insulation away.

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[begreen]

Replace the entire deal with class-a. Cathedral ceiling support that finishes below drop ceiling.

I thought of that, but what does the CC support fasten to for holding the chimney? The jinky grid doesn't look up to the task.

 

[HomeinPA]

I thought of that, but what does the CC support fasten to for holding the chimney? The jinky grid doesn't look up to the task.

I'd attach it to the framing above and let it hang down and finish the ceiling around it. I'm kind of assuming that there is some serious framing up there to support the weight of the earthen roof above it and that it would only be one floor underground.

 

[HomeinPA]

Looking at using metal-fab class a insulated double wall because I can get it locally. By specs and talking to supplier it looks like a quality product. Have you heard something different about the brand?

I was thinking about using the cathedral box to keep the ductwork insulation away.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Nothing bad. Just saying not to cut corners to save a buck. This looks fairly involved and all. You don't want to come back in the middle of winter next year and find out you have a serious issue.

 

[armanidog]

You may be able to use Tapcon screws or wedge anchors to fasten any supports or fittings to the underside of the concrete roof.

 

[snaple4]

I hadn't thought about that. Looking at the concrete there was 2x4's nailed up but it looks like they fell off at some point. I could always put another 2x4 up and attach a support bracket to that... If I use double wall I should still be able to keep my clearance to combustibles.

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[armanidog]

I hadn't thought about that. Looking at the concrete there was 2x4's nailed up but it looks like they fell off at some point. I could always put another 2x4 up and attach a support bracket to that... If I use double wall I should still be able to keep my clearance to combustibles.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

This helped me when I used the Tapcon screws:

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[snaple4]

So an update:

Had someone take the rock down from the wall and the chimney on top of they house. They then reused the rock to rebuild and extend the chimney.

I broke down and hired a company to install class a icc excel pipe. They were able to get the support box to fit inside the terra cotta so that helped keep things snug. They haven’t finished the cap yet (had to order a custom size) but otherwise everything is done! Now to finish running some wires so I can Sheetrock and mud. Then I get to run a OAK.

The class a is 12’. Hopefully it will have enough draft.

 

[begreen]

Definitely an improvement.

 

[kennyp2339]

@snaple4 that's excellent news good for you for taking advice and working off of that, not ignoring the issues, just wondering with the oak, since your below ground direct connection to the wood burning stove is not recommended, but a fresh air supply pipe that's vented near the stoves air intake will work, they cant be connected because if the chimney gets clogged then the smoke / heat can go up the oak and cause a fire.

 

[snaple4]

@snaple4 that's excellent news good for you for taking advice and working off of that, not ignoring the issues, just wondering with the oak, since your below ground direct connection to the wood burning stove is not recommended, but a fresh air supply pipe that's vented near the stoves air intake will work, they cant be connected because if the chimney gets clogged then the smoke / heat can go up the oak and cause a fire.

I have done a lot of reading and can’t find evidence of this from the manufacturers. I know some on this forum, with basement installs, have had problems with OAK but there are others with no problems. Also, since I don’t have a second floor I don’t have the same negative pressure issue. Are there any studies that I can read about oak that I may have missed? I want to avoid dumping unfiltered/unconditioned air into my living space.

 

[bholler]

So an update:

Had someone take the rock down from the wall and the chimney on top of they house. They then reused the rock to rebuild and extend the chimney.

I broke down and hired a company to install class a icc excel pipe. They were able to get the support box to fit inside the terra cotta so that helped keep things snug. They haven’t finished the cap yet (had to order a custom size) but otherwise everything is done! Now to finish running some wires so I can Sheetrock and mud. Then I get to run a OAK.

The class a is 12’. Hopefully it will have enough draft.

Definitely way better.

 

[Rob711]

So you have a underground house, and your roof is at grade? Was this a bomb shelter? Looks cool, what’s it build out of, concrete, steel?

 

[snaple4]

So you have a underground house, and your roof is at grade? Was this a bomb shelter? Looks cool, what’s it build out of, concrete, steel?

Yes, underground with about 2ish ft of dirt ontop. We bought it last year, built in early 80s. Interior load walls are cinder block, exterior walls and ceiling are monolithic poured concrete. I’m sure they used rebar but who know how much or how thick concrete is (one day I will re-do roof and will find out).

In the 8 months living here I can honestly say it is by far the most comfortable house I have ever lived in. Doesn’t have wild temperature fluctuations (since there is virtually NO air leaks) and can keep humidity at a comfortable level year round.

I am having to do a BUNCH of work outside and inside of the house since the previous owners did not maintain anything. Hell, when they built the house they didn’t put ductwork in the master bedroom. Silly people.

If I ever build a new house it will be solid concrete!