Hearthstone Heritage - scared of burning down the house!

[chad101]

Okay, that magnetic meter on your pipe is NOT the right way to measure your stove temp. You can overfire your stove and not even know it. Read your manual where it says to put that meter on your stove top to measure the stove temp. Your max stove temp is 600 on this stove.

I took it off the pipe and placed it directly on the stove top (centered).

I found this in the owner's manual

Monitor the stove temperatures with a stove
thermometer (available from your dealer) placed on
the top center stone of the stove. The thermometer
could read as high as 500°F (260°C) on High Burn
and 200-300°F (93-149°C) on low burn. Maintaining
temperatures in excess of 600°F (316°C) will cause
the stones to crack and other damage to the stove.

I’ll pay attention to the stove and not allow burns over 500; I’d like to buy one of those thermal guns for a more accurate reading

 

[chad101]

I don't think you will need a damper, I also don't think they are intended for use on the new stoves.

You're right, I don't need one; I plan on keeping it fully open. I only used it because it was another $30 for an adapter. I couldn't screw the elbow directly into the stove top (using the pre-drilled holes) and line everything up. The damper allowed me to twist to elbow to what ever position I needed.

 

[Highbeam]

Well then CHad, you seem to be getting things squared away. I'm happy for you.

You will find that this stove wants to run at 450-500 even with the primary air shut down. When you want more heat there is a world of difference in output between 450 and 550. I have been to 575 and by the time you get it there you will have spent quite a bit of time at the higher temps and really you will probably be overheating the house if your home is within the specs. What I'm getting at is don't be afraid of running up to 600 but don't go past it, in practive I feel fine at 550 but I start getting really nervous if the temps keep climbing. It's not worth ruining the stove and breaking stones to go all the way to 600.

I tried to install a damper on my heritage even though I didn't need it. I wanted one, but it didn't work out. That adapter (the simpson brand) didn't fit tightly to my stove collar. I assume you have a different brand and it does fit tightly?

 

[chad101]

I tried to install a damper on my heritage even though I didn't need it. I wanted one, but it didn't work out. That adapter (the simpson brand) didn't fit tightly to my stove collar. I assume you have a different brand and it does fit tightly?

I’m using the same damper (simpson) and no, it doesn’t fit like a glove. That’s why I didn’t use it until I installed the elbows.

It was a pain in the ass making sure the drill holes matched up with the holes in the stove collar.

I had to use #12, 3/4" sheet metal screws and it’s screwed in nice and tight to the collar. You can see in the pic where I drilled one hole too low


EDIT: It’s 80 degrees in the living room and about 70 down the hallway in my bedroom. The stove temp is at 450 right now

 

[chad101]

Screws

 

[greythorn3]

are those gonna be ok since they are not stainless steel?

 

[Slow1]

Am I missing something here or is that not a dripless connection? i.e. are you risking having liquid creasote leaking all over the top of that pretty stove?

 

[greythorn3]

i think that may be a doubel wall dampner, so it would be dripless

 

[Ratman]

I forgot to mention in my last post that I'm now 22" away from the left wall

NOTE: I also added a damper

I like your stove.

Is turning your hearth pad the other way an option?
Then you could re-do the pipe and put the stove kitty corner and go over spec on all 4 sides.
Remember the specs are the minimum requirements necessary.

 

[meathead]

I agree with others - why not turn it on a diagonal (about 45 degrees) facing out into the room. You could use the left loading door and make your clearances this way.

If you laid up the brick wall, you can contruct a hearth pad in a week of putting in a few hours a night after work. Bluestone with thermaled edges would look nice in there and lay up faster than brick as you'd only have to lay a few pieces - plus you could probably do it for less than you paid for the stove board. Get that skimpy hearth pad out of there and do it right so you can run the thing hard and not have any worries all winter. If you say it meets code I'll believe it - but I wouldn't run a 600 degree stove on it 24/7 for months on end.

 

[chad101]

I agree with others - why not turn it on a diagonal (about 45 degrees) facing out into the room. You could use the left loading door and make your clearances this way.

If you laid up the brick wall, you can contruct a hearth pad in a week of putting in a few hours a night after work. Bluestone with thermaled edges would look nice in there and lay up faster than brick as you'd only have to lay a few pieces - plus you could probably do it for less than you paid for the stove board. Get that skimpy hearth pad out of there and do it right so you can run the thing hard and not have any worries all winter. If you say it meets code I'll believe it - but I wouldn't run a 600 degree stove on it 24/7 for months on end.

I agree, and this will be my very first project come Spring. I'm considering building the hearth out of stone then laying stone all the way up the wall on both sides. That would look nice!

I can use the left door right now (just put a load in). But, this is just a temporary (one winter) fix. Just wait till spring...I'll have a follow along thread going while I build it

After that I plan on building a rack outside to hold at least 6 cords; w/ a shingled roof. My work will be cutout for me come this March or April.

My wife also likes turning the stove 45 degrees (I do as well). But, this is something I will wait on until I build my own hearth.

 

[Hogwildz]

I suggest replacing those screws with s.s. screws and maybe a lil "never seize" on the screws. Especially if you need to remove them.
I had a grade 5 hardened steel bolt that holds the upper protector plate in my insert corrode badly. I am replacing with s.s.

 

[chad101]

I suggest replacing those screws with s.s. screws and maybe a lil "never seize" on the screws. Especially if you need to remove them.
I had a grade 5 hardened steel bolt that holds the upper protector plate in my insert corrode badly. I am replacing with s.s.

Good idea, I'll look for some online right now.