It's not as pretty, but the simple Drolet Spark II might be worth looking at for a more radiant stove. The next size up would be the Drolet Savannah II.
Has the Green Mountain 60 been Updated?
- Thread starter Simon Says
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We just added another 3 feet to our chimney for a total of 15 feet from the ground up. This is helping a lot, in that we get less smoke in the house when opening the door to add logs and better air circulation when the fire starts. We also burnt 2x4s and dry wood as you recommended and that brings the heat up but our max temp. seems to be around 500 F* on our stovetop thermometer. But that is the temps on the outside, past the soapstone that seems to absorb a lot before giving off the heat. An hour later... and longer...
Do you think that the Jotul Oslo 500 (one of the few still up to code ) would be more forgiving with wood and more radiant?
It's difficult to really measure the heat type one stove at a time. What I feel with the GM60 is a slow warming stove and the heat creeps up on us until we are too hot, because it's not so cold anymore (32*F on cold nights).
We are willing to do the necessary to get dry wood but really want the radiant heat again. Would it be correct to say that the GM60 will never give the same effect as a radiant cast iron or steel stove? as those you mentioned above?
Would the jotul olso 500 new version do that or the jotul F 45 greenville , F55 or still a PE alderlea T5? those would be the stoves we can get at our dealer.
Another option that my husband is bringing up is to keep our small jotul 100 in the livingroom and have both stoves running during really cold weather and maybe also use the smaller for mid seasons just to get that cosy fire in the evening. We are opting to go towards wood heat as our only source of heat.
Do you think that the Jotul Oslo 500 (one of the few still up to code ) would be more forgiving with wood and more radiant?
It's difficult to really measure the heat type one stove at a time. What I feel with the GM60 is a slow warming stove and the heat creeps up on us until we are too hot, because it's not so cold anymore (32*F on cold nights).
We are willing to do the necessary to get dry wood but really want the radiant heat again. Would it be correct to say that the GM60 will never give the same effect as a radiant cast iron or steel stove? as those you mentioned above?
Would the jotul olso 500 new version do that or the jotul F 45 greenville , F55 or still a PE alderlea T5? those would be the stoves we can get at our dealer.
Another option that my husband is bringing up is to keep our small jotul 100 in the livingroom and have both stoves running during really cold weather and maybe also use the smaller for mid seasons just to get that cosy fire in the evening. We are opting to go towards wood heat as our only source of heat.
The Austral III shares the same insides with the Myriad and Legend models. The Savanah II has a much smaller and more shallow 1.9 cu ft firebox than the Austral/Myriad/Legend series. The Austral is the most radiant of that series because it has no side shielding.
The Jotul F500v3 is also a highly radiant stove. It is primarily a side-loader and best for installations where there is room for 16" of hearth on the left side of the stove.
So would it be safe to conclude that we will never get the same kind of radiant heat from a GM 60 than in a Jotul F 500 v3 Oslo?
If so, are the newer versions (2020) of the oslo or jotuls in general, less radiant than older stoves as you said higher up that the choices nowadays are slimmer?...
If so, are the newer versions (2020) of the oslo or jotuls in general, less radiant than older stoves as you said higher up that the choices nowadays are slimmer?...
This is a cast iron stove, the soapstone brick inside will act similarly to traditional firebrick. If the glass and interior bricks are staying black then your wood is suspect. Seems like you already are thinking the same thing, since you mentioned it’ll always be an issue. Can you not get a season ahead on cut/split/stacked wood?
I suggest to actually measure the moisture content before changing stoves. Wet wood will severely impact the heat.output of any modern stove. Mixed 2*4 and wet wood may work, or it may not as it depends on how wet the wood is...
You want wood below 20 percent measured on a freshly exposed surface (i.e. a resplit piece).
You want wood below 20 percent measured on a freshly exposed surface (i.e. a resplit piece).
Yes I have been trying with dry wood and the stove does flame up a lot better, although it does not really get higher than the 500 F mark in general, 600F if we really work at it and add wood. I just don't seem to be getting the direct heat that hits you when you walk into the house.
We will be working on preparing our wood ahead but new stoves seem to be fussier. I think our dealer may still have an Oslo in stock but its a big deal to change it if it won't give us more radiant heat.
We will be working on preparing our wood ahead but new stoves seem to be fussier. I think our dealer may still have an Oslo in stock but its a big deal to change it if it won't give us more radiant heat.
Other than the soapstone panels in it that act as insulation in the firebox, there shouldn’t be any noticeable difference. Maybe remove the soapstone insulation and replace with firebrick? Never tried it, but would help I bet.
replacing with bricks instead of soap stone, that would be a very interesting experiment.
Burning dry wood really makes a huge difference. Clean glass will radiate better, I was sceptical because we never had to try anything special with our little Jotul that would give off heat with any wood.
thanks for all your helpful tips, good thing you are around. I feel light i've read for a PhD in wood stoves and wood burning.
Burning dry wood really makes a huge difference. Clean glass will radiate better, I was sceptical because we never had to try anything special with our little Jotul that would give off heat with any wood.
thanks for all your helpful tips, good thing you are around. I feel light i've read for a PhD in wood stoves and wood burning.
According to the manual, Jotul uses refractory firebrick in the F500v3 and only in the back panel. The sides just have burn plate protection with a layer of insulation.
The only reason I said to replace the soapstone with firebrick is because it wouldn’t be advisable to burn a GM 60 without bricks installed.
Got it and agreed in that context. It was confusing because my quote was for the F500. Sounds like that was inadvertent.
