Hey everyone! I have a a Harman XXV pellet stove (with no high low rocker switch). The other day I noticed the distribution blower not working. It was just replaced 2 years ago. When I spun it by hand it seemed very sticky, and I could see the motor trying to spin it but just not able. I got a replacement and installed. Motor worked like it should for about an hour. Then I noticed the distribution blower slowly start to die out. Eventually it stopped completed and would not turn on in test mode either. After waiting a while, I turned the stove back on in test. The blower came on but at a much lower speed than normal for the max setting. I let the stove ignite and run on that lower speed for a while, but eventually the blower died again. Stove has been cleaned, ESP probe was removed and cleaned all scale off. I'm getting 120 volts from the distribution blower leads coming from the board. I'm trying to figure out if this is a board issue that is somehow killing these blowers, or am did I really just get 2 bad blowers back to back? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
Harman XXV Distribution Blower Issue
- Thread starter Abington586
- Start date
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I’m getting 120v from the distribution leads that are coming from the board on test mode. It’s super confusing considering the motor worked fine for a short period. I just can’t figure out what would be killing the motor.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
120v at the outlet, 120v from the leads at the board. What would be the issue at the outlet if I’m getting correct voltage?
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Frequency. Bad/weak neutral, which may only show up under load. Not true 60 cycles. Known as "dirty power". Is possible you got a new "bad motor,also. I would do like he said, make a jumper and plug motor directly into house.
Thanks for the clarification. I’ll try plugging into the wall after work.
Just makes me feel like something is off with the board somehow considering the last motor only lasted 2-3 years before the drum kind of seized up.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Yes, if the board is putting out "dirty" current, it can do this. Unfortunately, new motor may be now bad. Test both in wall socket. When people run these stoves on some generators, same thing happens, usually the motors are affected first.
Yea I’m pretty sure new one is toast as well. Drum feels “sticky” when I spin it. Not free like when I got it
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
That is strange, as there are no brushes in them,they are A/C. Almost like the motors were grounding through the bearings, instead of the wires. You will want to check all the wiring, make sure you don't have a loose or burned connection, on the neutral.
Both wires from the motor to board leads look fine. I’d have to pull the board panel to look at the lead wires but everything up to there looks good.
Most confusing thing ever. I’m tempted to just replace the board.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Well,it is questionable. And you could buy a kill-a-watt meter, or even Harbor Freight version, to check your home power, and check it while stove is running.
I have a multi meter, that’s how verified I was getting 120v from the board leads to the motor. If it helps I’m getting 6.9kHz on the meter from every outlet in the house (different circuits). Trying to figure out how to change it to just Hz.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
I’ve honestly never measured hertz on it before. It’s accurate for voltage so far. Trying to find the manual bc that read doesn’t seem correct as it’s showing kHz instead of Hz. 6.9 kHz would be like 6900 Hz
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Well,is doubtful HZ would be off, to your house. Most house wiring problems seem to be that the wires,even the main big wires, come loose inside the breaker panel.
Yea I’m thinking there’s some issue with the stove/board electronics. Just because literally everything other electronic in my house is completely fine. Just can’t figure out what would be just destroying these motors all of a sudden. Dealer doesn’t know when a tech can get out to me at the moment so I’m just trying to do anything to get some heat.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
You have a meter, you can check with it, and physically removing, the wires on that outlet. Particular attention to the white wire, all the way to the fuse/breaker panel. If this is not making connection, it can be the cause. The all important question, were you using a surge protector? Also, many of the better ones will tell you if there is a line fault. Black should be hot, white is neutral.
Stove was plugged into surge protector. Other electronics are on the same surge protector power strip and working fine so it all kind of leads me back to the stove.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Yep, seems like you have checked things out pretty well. If it is wired like most Harmans,the motors still might not have been properly grounded through the circuit board itself.or the connector. I would probably also replace ot, BUT right now, from every thing you have checked, I would be pulling the board out and inspecting the connector, to see if it is burned. If so, you may need a harness, so the sooner you find out the better.
Hi, I been dealing with this issue a lot. I put a post here about my solution to this issue. I made a weldment so I could attach a different blower on the back of the stove. It works great and is easy to get to
I just replaced the distribution blower on my P35i. It's the same one used on the XXV. The blower was ordered from Direct Brand. Priced at $135 plus $35 for Fedex overnight shipping ($170 total). The blower was ordered on Monday morning and arrived at 11:00 the next day. I Can't vow for the long term reliability in that it's probably not a genuine Harman part, but right now it's working just fine!
BGStG1aholic
Member
- Oct 16, 2012
- 108
aw heck, just buy a new one every year, they're only about 400 bucks with tax and only take several hours to replace with a lots of cussing thrown in.
Thanks Harman socalled engineers for locating the motor right next to the intense heated exhaust, what a swell idea. Harman is making a fortune selling parts but losing customers while doing so
Ive just gone thru my 4th dist blower on a 9 year old EXPENSIVE stove, last motor only lasted 13 months. What a joy paying 400 bucks and wasting several hours replacing a poorly designed motor ever year or so. I buy the OEM harman brand name part everytime as I figure it should be of a better quality than replacement brands but apparently not
I'm buying the home made manifold/shroud that FixItGuy is selling and be done with this problem. Being externally mounted it will be louder but at least it will work for more than a year or 2
Thanks Harman socalled engineers for locating the motor right next to the intense heated exhaust, what a swell idea. Harman is making a fortune selling parts but losing customers while doing so
Ive just gone thru my 4th dist blower on a 9 year old EXPENSIVE stove, last motor only lasted 13 months. What a joy paying 400 bucks and wasting several hours replacing a poorly designed motor ever year or so. I buy the OEM harman brand name part everytime as I figure it should be of a better quality than replacement brands but apparently not
I'm buying the home made manifold/shroud that FixItGuy is selling and be done with this problem. Being externally mounted it will be louder but at least it will work for more than a year or 2
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