Harman P68 lighting problems

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Update -
Had the tech stop by and he replaced the PCB and put in an upgraded ESP.
That fixed the problems.
Good thing I watched him do it.
He forgot to set the dip switches on the new board.
It will not feed right with the switches all in the off position.
BTW - the new board was definitely a newer model also.
On a side note I have found that a cylinder brush (XL lab type) work extremely well to clean the exhaust duct behind the ash bin.
Thanks for the previous sugestions.
 
sasquatch said:
Update -
Had the tech stop by and he replaced the PCB and put in an upgraded ESP.
That fixed the problems.
Good thing I watched him do it.
He forgot to set the dip switches on the new board.
It will not feed right with the switches all in the off position.
BTW - the new board was definitely a newer model also.
On a side note I have found that a cylinder brush (XL lab type) work extremely well to clean the exhaust duct behind the ash bin.
Thanks for the previous sugestions.


oooh...all switches in the "off" posit means its an "old style" ESP probe...."new style" probes have red wires, and the switch #5 is supposed to be set to "on"
 
Lousyweather said:
oooh...all switches in the "off" posit means its an "old style" ESP probe...."new style" probes have red wires, and the switch #5 is supposed to be set to "on"

Can you tell me if the attached settings are any good? I was thinking they were from '05' and older, but they do not match up with what you are saying. What years would these settings be for?

(broken image removed)
 
the switch labelled "5" needs to be in the "on" position IF the probe is indeed a "new style probe"......the only way to tell is if the wire going to the ESP probe is RED. The new controlboards can utilize either probe, but the switch needs to be set accordingly. The older controlboards dont have dipswitches and CANNOT utilize the red-wired, "new" ESP probe.
 
That is good information to have. So, since none of the settings in my image show switch 5 "on", I can assume these are for older models (without the red wired ESP). I am going to check my stove dipswitches when I get home from work just to confirm which position my #5 is in.

I'll also make a note in my records.

Thanks!
 
correct, Codebum......your diagram comes from a time after the "new" boards came out, but BEFORE the "new" probes came out. Basically, if your ESP probe has a red wire, switch 5 is "on", if its got a black wire, switch 5 is "off"........if its a real old board, there is no switch, just dont use a "red" ESP probe in it at all.....you'll get blink errors and erroneous high readings with your DDM
 
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