Harman Accentra 2 Free Standing (FS) - Blowing fuses / auger not moving

[shubbah]

We have an older Harman Accentra 2 FS. My mother claims the auger quit working the other day. She tried to unplug and plug the stove back in and somewhere during that time it blew a fuse on the control board. Please note: this stove does not have an igniter. In addition, I installed a new auger and combustion motor that have been working fine the last 6 months. Since this issue occurred, I have:

• Confirmed the auger moves freely once off the chain
• Blew 3 more fuses trying to test if the auger would kick on
• Installed a backup auger motor to see if it was the issue and both auger motors just turn very slowly, but do not actually turn enough to feed the stove
• Inspected the wires in back and do not see any exposed/frayed/loose wires

My next thought is it may have a bad control board?

 

[Whitenuckler]

We have an older Harman Accentra 2 FS. My mother claims the auger quit working the other day. She tried to unplug and plug the stove back in and somewhere during that time it blew a fuse on the control board. Please note: this stove does not have an igniter. In addition, I installed a new auger and combustion motor that have been working fine the last 6 months. Since this issue occurred, I have:

• Confirmed the auger moves freely once off the chain
• Blew 3 more fuses trying to test if the auger would kick on
• Installed a backup auger motor to see if it was the issue and both auger motors just turn very slowly, but do not actually turn enough to feed the stove
• Inspected the wires in back and do not see any exposed/frayed/loose wires

My next thought is it may have a bad control board?

I'd probably make a fused 120V jumper from an old extension cord (10A 120V Fuse).Unplug the stove. Unplug the feed motor from the control card. Use the jumper hot and neutral to feed the auger motor. See how that goes. If it all seemed good, I'd get a board. Make sure to use a surge plug/bar for your stove.
If you do get a new card make sure to set the dip switches per your ESP probe type or you will get a fault. The card will come set up for red wired ESP which is the latest type.

 

[NS P-68]

An Accentra 2 that doesn't have an ignitor...?

 

[shubbah]

An Accentra 2 that doesn't have an ignitor...?

Yep. We purchased it as a return from another customer and for whatever reason, it didn't have an igniter. We just manual start it up with firestarter. It's not a big deal because it runs 24/7 from November to April.

 

[Ssyko]

Do you use a surge protector on the stove?

 

[shubbah]

Do you use a surge protector on the stove?

Great question!

No, we have had the stove plugged directly into the wall for the last ~20 years and has not been an issue. I will grab a surge protector and test it. Thanks!

 

[Whitenuckler]

Great question!

No, we have had the stove plugged directly into the wall for the last ~20 years and has not been an issue. I will grab a surge protector and test it. Thanks!

The surge protector will not fix the problem,but may prevent a problem with your new card (if you get one). You cannot test a surge plug/bar. If it has a light on it, then the light will tell you if it is still good.

 

[shubbah]

The surge protector will not fix the problem,but may prevent a problem with your new card (if you get one). You cannot test a surge plug/bar. If it has a light on it, then the light will tell you if it is still good.

Thank you for your reply - Makes sense - I have ordered a new control board off Pellethead/Earth Sense. I'll be sure to plug the new one into a surge protector.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Thank you for your reply - Makes sense - I have ordered a new control board off Pellethead/Earth Sense. I'll be sure to plug the new one into a surge protector.

Good. Don't forget to set the dip switches. If the board instructions do not include your stove/esp type let us know. I just posted a chart on one of the previous posts.

 

[NS P-68]

The reason I ask about the ignitor is I'm not aware of a manual start Accentra 2. Does you're circuit board have the option for an ignitor and just doesn't have an ignitor installed? Just thinking you may have wires in you're burn pot that are not connected and possibly causing a short and blowing the fuse.

 

[shubbah]

The reason I ask about the ignitor is I'm not aware of a manual start Accentra 2. Does you're circuit board have the option for an ignitor and just doesn't have an ignitor installed? Just thinking you may have wires in you're burn pot that are not connected and possibly causing a short and blowing the fuse.

That is a really good point. I kind of inherited maintaining the stove and a couple weeks ago I did a thorough cleaning and cleaned out the burn pot which was stuffed with debris. I did notice there are two wires in the burn pot, not connected to anything with exposed ends. If I recall correctly, the red light never turns on on start up that indicates the igniter is being used.

It does appear to have an older board on it. The replacement boards are a different model than is what’s on our stove. But it’s kind of odd that it could’ve ran for almost 20 years without short-circuiting the igniter if that is actually the issue.

Here is a picture of the board:

 

[Whitenuckler]

The yellow wire on the plug is for the igniter. Light Blue is the other side going to the pressure switch (not to the board). If you don't want to use an igniter then you should disconnect those wires in the back at least. They go to quick disconnects. If you do that you could leave the wires going into the burn pot which would be handy if you decide to install an igniter to pull the new wires in.

 

[Whitenuckler]

That is a really good point. I kind of inherited maintaining the stove and a couple weeks ago I did a thorough cleaning and cleaned out the burn pot which was stuffed with debris. I did notice there are two wires in the burn pot, not connected to anything with exposed ends. If I recall correctly, the red light never turns on on start up that indicates the igniter is being used.

It does appear to have an older board on it. The replacement boards are a different model than is what’s on our stove. But it’s kind of odd that it could’ve ran for almost 20 years without short-circuiting the igniter if that is actually the issue.

Here is a picture of the board: View attachment 338196

Here is a picture of my spare igniter. I'm not sure if it would be the same as what you had. If you can see the wires in the burn pot then it seems they cut them off if they removed the igniter. When you change an igniter you pull the new high temp wires into the back of the stove as part of the job

 

[NS P-68]

If you can trace those wires back to where they connect behind the stove and disconnect them I would put a fuse in your old board and try it. If you disturbed those wires while cleaning there is a good chance these wires have melted and causing a short which is blowing a fuse. Your old board may or may not be still good. Alot of times a short like this will take out the circuit board so you better be certain these wires are disconnected properly before you go installing a new board

 

[NS P-68]

That is a really good point. I kind of inherited maintaining the stove and a couple weeks ago I did a thorough cleaning and cleaned out the burn pot which was stuffed with debris. I did notice there are two wires in the burn pot, not connected to anything with exposed ends. If I recall correctly, the red light never turns on on start up that indicates the igniter is being used.

It does appear to have an older board on it. The replacement boards are a different model than is what’s on our stove. But it’s kind of odd that it could’ve ran for almost 20 years without short-circuiting the igniter if that is actually the issue.

Here is a picture of the board: View attachment 338196

If you're manual starting the stove and your switch is in the manual position , I don't believe the ignitor light will come on.
Personally if it were me I would install a new ignitor while your at it and at least have the option to use it. There are good videos online showing how its done.

 

[shubbah]

Here is a picture of my spare igniter. I'm not sure if it would be the same as what you had. If you can see the wires in the burn pot then it seems they cut them off if they removed the igniter. When you change an igniter you pull the new high temp wires into the back of the stove as part of the job

I think you’re spot on. For whatever reason they cut the wires to the igniter in the burn pot and took out the igniter as the wires in my burn pot look exactly like yours.

This was my late stepfathers stove, so I’m not sure what the back story is on it.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Sometimes when you start working on an existing used machine/stove ect there is a learning curve. It is easy to buy a new stove and you don't have these sort of issues. However, eventually something will go wrong, and this is why I like helping others as I am learning as well.
NS P68 is a sharp guy for picking up on this issue. I think since you are in this deep with a new card, you should go for the igniter. The problem may be that there is a bracket that may be missing that the igniter goes on? You don't need to do it right away, just isolate those wires and get it up and running as is.

 

[shubbah]

Update:
1. Unplugged the igniter cables in the burn pot at the quick detach.
2. New board arrived. Set the DIP switch setting to my stove (Accentra), installed the new board , powered it up and it blew a fuse on the new board. Also made sure the stove was plugged into a surge protector.
3. Installed old board (since new board fuse is blown and uses a different fuse) and decided to disconnect the combustion blower to see if that changes anything. Well, the auger motor still does not turn, but no fuses are blowing. I think this must mean the combustion blower is the culprit blowing the fuses? Since the auger motor is still not turning, does it require the combustion blower to be on in order for it to feed?

This combustion blower is like 6 months old, but is not an OEM blower. (ordered one initially, but this is what they sent).

 

[NS P-68]

Yes, your combustion blower will need to be running in order for the auger motor to turn. Auger motor only receives power when the vacuum switch closes and that is done by the combustion motor.
If you have an old piece of extension cord you could make up a test cord by crimping a set of those quick connects and test each motor individually. Just make sure you unplug the stove first.
Highly likely the combustion motor is the culprit in you're case if it immediately blowing the fuse.