Hampton Gci60 - Heat Level Problem

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I’ll have to try and rig up a wire to jump the two thermostat wires and see what happens.

Pretty sure it’s not the hopper lid hitting the switch. Tried lifting up on the lid when opening and it was still in manual. Also tried opening and closing in auto mode and it was still on auto (switch pushed up) when I opened. Also no visible wear on the switch from rubbing.

Will try jumping the thermostat and let you know.
 
Ssysco, it is not a problem with the switch itself, but rather th magnet glued to the bottom of the lid to operate the switch sometimes protrudes a little too low and drags on the t-stat mode switch, pushing it out of the position you think it is in. The solution for me was to add washers under the bolts on the lid to lift it slightly.

Goldja, sounds like you are good with the lid switch. My enviro had two thermostat wires already connected to the board and coiled up on the side of the stove behind the panel, don’t know if the Hampton does
 
Ok, so I jumped the thermostat wires with a bootleg wire I found and now it seems to work fine. So should I just splice the wires together and move on? Or, should I buy a thermostat or new boards?

It works, so I’m leaning towards the free option, but so don’t want to do any other damage if that possible?
 
for some reason its stuck in auto or high-low. i would throw a cheap thermostat on it and see how it works for a few days. have you unplugged the stove for your cleanings or trouble shooting? move the switch back and forth a few times maybe its dirty inside it. unplug the stove and remove the cable for the daughter board 2-3 times on both boards. if you can get a pic of the number that is on the blue relay on the motherboard if mine is the same programming we can test with it.
 
I have unplugged it several times and also moved the switch back and forth. Will try reconnecting the wire from the daughter board and if not will get a thermostat I guess. What kind of thermostat can be used and where could I get it?

Thanks again.
 
You can connect the two thermostat wires together and run in manual, or connect a thermostat and use that. Given that the thermostat block on the board has a jump wire (earlier post shows this), you need to complete the circuit when thermostat wires are attached. As my M55 is one of the early ones, it didn't have the thermostat wires connected to the board. When I removed the jump wire, I connected short thermostat wires w/ quick connectors - much easier than accessing the thermostat block on the board. I can complete the circuit w/ a jump wire if I don't want to use a thermostat. But, thermostat in hi/low is wonderful! fyi I use the $12 Lux square mechanical thermostat; works great. Calibration is off on mine, but you can easily figure out the difference and set accordingly. My Bixby works the same way; if thermostat not connected, then a jumper across the thermostat connections is needed.
 
His board is stuck in auto or hi low.