Half-ton pickup redux

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I also dont find gm parts any cheaper than ford or dodge at all honestly.

I was wondering about that. It’s been years since I’ve owned a GM product, but they used to be no cheaper than the rest.

The exception was small block aftermarket engine components, where the Chevy and Ford small block parts were always much cheaper than anything else. That speaks more to demand and volume, than design.
 
I was wondering about that. It’s been years since I’ve owned a GM product, but they used to be no cheaper than the rest.

The exception was small block aftermarket engine components, where the Chevy and Ford small block parts were always much cheaper than anything else. That speaks more to demand and volume, than design.
Yeah if you are talking about aftermarket performance parts chevy still wins there price wise. The ls parts are everywhere so the parts are generally cheaper.
 
I also dont find gm parts any cheaper than ford or dodge at all honestly.
Probably not the big three but, I was mostly comparing it to a toyota truck i had for awhile and it needed parts often and they were always a lot more than the GMs. Needed a front disc caliper for my 1 ton Silverado dump truck once.Rebuilt caliper was $26, lifetime guarantee. I was expecting a lot more as its a big caliper. Just one example.
 
Whenever the automaker changes design and part numbers the price goes up. I remember selling GM universal joints while running the families auto parts store. One particular part number fit a boatload of different years and models. I believe the price was $7.50 . Part numbers fitting only one or two years were easily 2 or 3 times that even though they were roughly the same size and design. GM used to keep a lot of the same parts going thru a lot of model years. Not sure if they still do anymore.
 
i will look into the ficm rectifier suggestion. Couple hours back looked up the problem- after 3 pages i booked marked it for later reference. long and short of it,pick your poison to start with and good luck. I've danced to that tune before. 200k + miles any of the suggestions are valid. It is possible there might be code/s in the ecm. No tools with me last night. Had to get it off the freeway by that time it was 0darkthirty.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/at...cm-repair-procedure-ficm_repair_procedure.pdf

I have done a few. I used to stock them but, I'm not seeing it as often now.

As far as losing power on the Power Strokes and dying. The FICM is number 1, high pressure oil pump or leak issues is a close second. Cam sensors and fuel pressure on the low side. If you have a scanner check FICM voltage while cranking. Needs, I believe, 42 volts to fire. If that voltage is there it is ok.
 
Probably not the big three but, I was mostly comparing it to a toyota truck i had for awhile and it needed parts often and they were always a lot more than the GMs. Needed a front disc caliper for my 1 ton Silverado dump truck once.Rebuilt caliper was $26, lifetime guarantee. I was expecting a lot more as its a big caliper. Just one example.
Really a toyota? I had a beater tacoma i bought for $500 with 275000 miles on it. I beat the crap out of it in the woods for 3 summers in that time i put 6000 miles on it almost all on the dirt. I only drove it on the road the first year till i rolled it the first time. After that it wasnt exactly street legal anymore. And i did nothing to it but add oil to it and occasionally roll it back onto its wheels. And it just kept running it only died when i misjudged the depth of a mud hole and swamped it. I got it running again but it was never the same. I have never had anything but fantastic reliability from toyotas.
 
Really a toyota? .
Was a 1999 with only 75000 miles on it. Only good thing i can say about it is it had lots of power. Springs were crap, bottomed out with a few cement blocks in the back .MPG was crap. You could almost hear it rusting. Paper thin body panels ,leaning against the side might put a dent in it. Put more replacement parts on it than any GM product i ever had and those parts were a lot more expensive.
I could go on and on.
 
Was a 1999 with only 75000 miles on it. Only good thing i can say about it is it had lots of power. Springs were crap, bottomed out with a few cement blocks in the back .MPG was crap. You could almost hear it rusting. Paper thin body panels ,leaning against the side might put a dent in it. I could go on and on.
Like our 06 chevy with 75000 miles that has had the frame patched 4 times already and i dont trust it to tow our masonry trailer anymore because of the frame. Atleast toyota recalled theirs. Not to mention the brake lines and fuel lines that rusted by 45000 miles. Again no recall. They did recall one of the plugs that melted off but not the other 6. Every company has good years a nd bad years. And you can get a bad one even from those good years. I have no brand loyalty it makes no sense you have to research each vehicle to decide what works best for you.
 
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Every company has good years and bad years. And you can get a bad one even from those good years. I have no brand loyalty it makes no sense you have to research each vehicle to decide what works best for you.
Amen.

That's why I only buy 1960's Jaguars. ;lol
 
my cutlass was about same year and engine, about 250k i traded it for the grand prix, had the 3.1 too, that one i put over 300k on ...

the only ones i have had to get into the engine is the 3800 in the wifes bonneville and the first lucerne, they have stupid plastic intake manifolds ...

the trucks normally 18 local 20-22 i get with my ave, most of the trucks with the 5.3 are the same too

Sounds like the 3.1 was very good engine. Something went on my son's Cutlass, maybe the intake manifold but at that time it made sense to move onto something else. Bummer to hear about the 3.8 with the plastic intake manifolds, I didn't realize that. I did some research and as you said somewhat common. Again, a change for a reliable basic engine that ended up causing trouble. That 3.8 V6 goes back to the 1960s, I'll bet they didn't have plastic then. That's why I believe new isn't always best or better, not just with vehicles but appliances. Years ago refrigerators and washer/dryers would last 15 years or more, certainly not the case with mine.The 3.8s weren't nearly as smooth though years ago. My friend had one in his '76 Olds Starfire. Not smooth at all at idle. I think it was resolved with the cylinder firing order and balance shafts. I remember I test drove one in I think a '65 Buick Special with a 3 on the tree.

If you're getting 18 mpg or more with your Avalanche you're definitely getting better MPGs than I was with the Honda Pilot. I do like the 5.3 that I have in the 2002 Silverado I bought recently. It never seems like it really needs to work hard.
 
Vehicles for me have been a crap shoot, even the couple brand new ones I have owned US or Japanese. Everything has become so much more complex now and excessively expensive to repair that it is mind boggling. I live in the winter chemical corrosion belt which just compounds the difficulties. A lot of repairs I can do myself, finding the particular system culprit is the hard part. Understanding that codes are only showing the results of 1 or more system failures and are in no way indicative of the actual problem, most of the time, is difficult for most. A little tid bit- you have 2 ground circuits they are essentially independent of each other- one is chassis ground , the other is electrical ground running though various control modules which make and break the circuit on the Neg. leg.
 
Every company has good years a nd bad years. And you can get a bad one even from those good years. I have no brand loyalty it makes no sense you have to research each vehicle to decide what works best for you.
All i can go on is past experience. Had a few fords over the years trucks, in the 80s and a car in the 90s . All plagued with numerous problems. Ill probably never buy another although i know there are lots of good ones out there,i just cant seem to get one. Even with research its the luck of the draw. Some just cant take these road salt winters in PA.
 
Vehicles ince 2002
Used 2001 Dodge Cummins-- Favorite truck by far. wish I never sold it. No repairs other than Hot Rodding
2007 Bought a new 2008 Vette (was wifes daily) Awesome but it should have been a weekend toy. Not a daily driver. No repairs other than dealer replaced the driver seat cover due to wear. Sold 4 1/2 years later @ 36,000 mi for close to purchase price.
Used 2013 Impala LTZ with 36 k replaced 2 sensors total under $75.00 Gave to daughter still running strong close to 200k now and unreal power and gas mileage.
Used 2006 Chevy (aluminum L33 motor) half ton 4x4 Z71 with 60K now at 150k had key ignition replace and heater sensor less than $125.00
You guys are buying the wrong vehicles.
Knocking on wood.
 
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All i can go on is past experience. Had a few fords over the years trucks, in the 80s and a car in the 90s . All plagued with numerous problems. Ill probably never buy another although i know there are lots of good ones out there,i just cant seem to get one. Even with research its the luck of the draw. Some just cant take these road salt winters in PA.
Yes i know our chevy truck and my trailblazer cant. My 1990 ford frame is perfect still. And our ford van doesnt have any rust at all yet but it is a 2010 so much newer. But it does have 165000 miles and we have had no issues other than a plug blowing out fixed under warranty.
 
i haven't been able to get the truck not to start again for the last couple of days. all i did with it was load it up with some wood :)
 
dodge stuff for the hemi dodge I work on is about two to three times more than for my ave. they are both 04, but has half the mileage, the ave you can get half shafts and hubs about 40-50 I just did them at 180k. they were 120 and 100 for the hubs on the dodge and a terrible job everything was seized, needed dealer only bolts you couldnt get access to. on the chevy you can get the axle out of the way bye zipping out 6 bolts.
I just thought of a few other things ive had to do to the dodge, fuel pump, cam and lifters, it leaked everything, the side bars fell off and I had to make new brackets because there wasent enough frame to attach them anymore sure there was more.

I started getting my gms zeibarted, one of gms biggest problems I guess but that really takes care of it
 
Yes i know our chevy truck and my trailblazer cant. My 1990 ford frame is perfect still..
Must be dependent on what year it is. My 1995 2500 Silverado frame is near perfect shape, for a truck 23 yrs old. Even the body has very little rust. My 93 Silverado has more surface rust on the frame but nothing deep. The toyota had way more frame rust and was very deep to the point of collapsing and was years newer.
 
All i can go on is past experience.
Sort of ironic, that you’re posting that statement on a forum where people come to benefit from the experience of others, no?

You have much more to go on, than your own very narrow past experience. Internet forums, auto industry publications, consumer reports, truecar, edmunds, kelly, etc., etc., etc.
 
Still luck of the draw.
 
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Must be dependent on what year it is. My 1995 2500 Silverado frame is near perfect shape, for a truck 23 yrs old. Even the body has very little rust. My 93 Silverado has more surface rust on the frame but nothing deep. The toyota had way more frame rust and was very deep to the point of collapsing and was years newer.
Yeah ours is an 06 and needed patched the first time in 2012. If it hadnt been patched i am sure the frame would have broken by now. But the body has little rust on it. Ford really doesnt seem to have to many issues with frame rust but more with body. The same for dodge. Honestly in this area it is hard to find many road worthy gm trucks from the 2000s. A large percentage of them have frames that are to far gone. But they claim there is no problem with that or the brake lines or fuel lines. And toyota gets crap for a problem they issued a recall for.
 
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Still luck of the draw.

To some small degree, yes. But you can avoid the high prevalence of certain specific problems, by doing your research. My example above, avoid vintage Lucas electronics, unless you like playing with that sort of thing.
 
bringing up bad memories with the ford 6.0, definitely the worst work truck we had, left me stranded a million times. was in the shop 3 or 4 times a year when it was new, every time lost work time and not fun waiting for a tow for hours in january because you have to wait for something that can pull a 12k truck and 12k trailer

not luck of the draw if you see tons have issues with the same thing
 
bringing up bad memories with the ford 6.0, definitely the worst work truck we had, left me stranded a million times. was in the shop 3 or 4 times a year when it was new, every time lost work time and not fun waiting for a tow for hours in january because you have to wait for something that can pull a 12k truck and 12k trailer

not luck of the draw if you see tons have issues with the same thing

I was a Ford Truck Tech when the 6.0 came out. I despised them until I opened my own shop. Embrace the junk chit, it pays your bills as a Technician. Beside just when you thought it couldn't be worse they threw in the 6.4L abomination with its dual turbo and egr cooler nightmare. Now it's the 6.7L and not looking too much better. Egr coolers, turbos, and now dropping injector seats destroying pistons and blocks.

There is a reason I worked on Fords and drove Dodge.
 
Sort of ironic, that you’re posting that statement on a forum where people come to benefit from the experience of others, no?
You have much more to go on, than your own very narrow past experience. Internet forums, auto industry publications, consumer reports, truecar, edmunds, kelly, etc., etc., etc.
.
Well i believed the opinions of others(like consumer reports) about the toyotas ,and got a real world experience by buying one and finding they are not all so great after all.
. Have 46 yrs of my own with many cars and trucks of various makes. I managed a family auto parts store and repair shop for 10 years,thousands of repairs on all makes and model vehicles so iv seen a lot of repairs in that time.So i dont think my experience is so narrow. In the end ill go with what i think is best from past experience every time. Ill listen to anyones opinion but it may go in one ear and out the other. No offense.
 
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