brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That's a good solution for HY-C furnaces too!I was going to say, dig a hole. Cheaper, easier, and everybody has a low spot that needs filling.
That's a good solution for HY-C furnaces too!I was going to say, dig a hole. Cheaper, easier, and everybody has a low spot that needs filling.
I would suggest a FC1000E or the SF1000E as long as you go by the manual, most of the people in this forum think they know everything when it comes to wood burning... Times have changed most of them have been burning wood for 30+ years and think they know it all and won't take any suggestions.. you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.. Not saying the furnace is perfect by any means but if they can pass EPA standards how can they so quickly disown it.. Also not saying these people don't know what they're talking about I read a lot of these Forums and most people do know what they are talking about... you don't have a whole lot of play with the unit {as far as draft goes} but if you have a correct install it seems to work just fine for 95% of people.
So, what is your job title at Hy-C?
View attachment 273736
View attachment 273737
Just joined yesterday at 8:51am and the same day commented on two Hy-C products and that's it. One of them happens to be recommending a product which is known on this forum to have multiple issues from multiple people.
View attachment 273743
View attachment 273738
View attachment 273740
You see that a lot with unscrupulous companies...wring a brand or individual product out for all its worth...burn it right to the ground!What strikes me is how as an owner and operator of a company manufacturing a heating appliance, you keep making and selling the same one when you know there are so many problems with it?
FYI, Charmaster is no longer in business...so no parts unless you can find it elsewhere, or make it.Since this thread is fairly recent, hoping to drag it back (sort of) to the original topic. I'm buying a 3800SF, off-grid house in May. It already has a large wood stove in the (smaller) lower level, but there are no fans/ducting, and I'm worried the very open upstairs with vaulted ceiling will not get sufficient heat. There is a nice-looking Charmaster near me for $500, including some pipe/metalwork. The house has dual propane furnaces in the garage already, one each for upstairs and downstairs. I was wondering about sliding the Charmaster in there to help with heating. I currently heat a 3200SF house exclusively with propane, and it's $$$$ in the winter. I have plenty of wood, pinon mostly, and can definitely let it dry sufficiently. So - is this a bad idea, or workable? Here's the unit I'm looking at: (broken link removed to https://westslope.craigslist.org/app/d/cedaredge-charmaster-wood-burning/7293846943.html)
And let me know if you think it would be better to start a new thread! I assure you I'm not looking at a Firechief
I know Daryl Lamppa said they used to sell a bunch of VF200's to off gridders because the smaller blower had a low draw...but that is probably too small of a machine for that size house...the VF100 would work, but you are right back to a larger blower.
The wood stove would work for warmer weather probably...does the basement have insulation? Concrete can soak up HUGE BTUs if not insulated!
Nice place, I think that stove will do better than you think...it will take a big bite out of the heat bill anyways... probably what the former owner did. If the back corners of the house are cool you can always run a small fan on the floor pointing back toward the stove...that works well to move cool air toward the stove, and heat to the back of the house...that and a ceiling fan in the great room to push the heat back down.Here's a link to the listing with a bunch of pics: https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/501-Galloping-Goose-Ln-Ridgway-CO-81432/2089630908_zpid/?mmlb=g,0. Pic #22 shows the garage and the configuration of the existing furnaces. Seems to me the Charmaster would fit nicely next to them and patching into the existing plenums wouldn't be all that much work, but I'm likely being too optimistic (I usually am!). If the retrofit/install wasn't too hard or too $$$, seems it might be worth a shot. For $500-$1000, if it didn't work, I'm not out that much, and hopefully the metalwork would work for a newer/better furnace down the road. I know I'm ignoring your comment about them being out of business, but I'm thinking these are fairly basic units, so fabbing parts should be feasible - unless it's controls, I suppose.
Sorry I'm being so wordy. I figure I need to jump on this soon if I'm going to do it, so trying to make a decision today/tomorrow.
Ok, thanks. I thought the upstairs was updraft, but honestly didn't check very carefully. I guess that does look like return air on top, now that I look at the pic more carefully. Oh well - it was a thought!A wood furnace is out then...you would have to use down flow ducts, can't do that with a solid fuel furnace, if the power or blower fails things get very hot, very fast. There used to be emergency heat dump's for this purpose, but nobody makes them anymore.
Wait - a fan on the floor pushing back to the stove? Ok, I guess that makes sense, push the cold air toward the stove to get convection current going. Sure wouldn't have thought of it myself!Nice place, I think that stove will do better than you think...it will take a big bite out of the heat bill anyways... probably what the former owner did. If the back corners of the house are cool you can always run a small fan on the floor pointing back toward the stove...that works well to move cool air toward the stove, and heat to the back of the house...that and a ceiling fan in the great room to push the heat back down.
Start at the back....fan on low, pointing down hall toward the stove... but ultimately every house is different and you will need to experiment.would you suggest a fan in the farthest bedroom, at the top of the stairs, or just experiment?
Got it, thanks.Start at the back....fan on low, pointing down hall toward the stove... but ultimately every house is different and you will need to experiment.
The principle is that cooler air is easier to move than warmer lighter air is....
I did see that a couple weeks ago...can't believe it legit passed...maybe it didn't, maybe some pockets got lined...Looks like HYC got the FC furnace re-tested. But still won't qualify for the 26% tax credit... thankfully. Maybe this will finally force them to design something safer and worth owning.
Nice to know the market currently has both the Heat Commander and VF100 to choose from to claim the tax credit.
The Woodstock IS is a reasonably stout heater at 3.2 cubic feet. It’s more efficient than any of the furnaces and no power consumption. Plus, it’s installed. You don’t need to go 100% wood heat. Even 75% replacement with wood will save you a ton of money on propane and really, keeping that IS going 24/7 might be all the effort you want to make.
The furnaces occasionally kicking on during the coldest weather will mix the air and exercise the units.
Try it as-is and see how it goes.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.