heaterman said:thuffy said:tigermaple said:Flat plate hex IMHO do not work well on wood boilers for a number of reasons. Air locks, improper hook-up/positioning, equal flow, deposit build-up etc. Ditch the plate and line it right in to your boiler. Also make sure the ID of the pex between GW and existing furnace is at least 1" for a GW200.
Good Luck
Cannot hook the GW in to the existing boiler because of a pressure issue. the existing boiler exceeds the Gw maximum allowance that is why we need the heat exchanger. the ID of the pex is 1". Thanks,
tom
1" pex under what is considered normal design conditions is good for an average 80,000 btu output, 100,000 would be maximum. You just can't flow a lot more water through it than that. You probably have two main issues that are unfortunately quite common. The HX is undersized and you maybe should have used 1.25" pex for more flow.
Under normal engineering standards you would see the following temps on your HX. Wood side in 180*, wood side out (back to the Greenwood) 160, House side return 150ish, house side supply 170 or so. What are the actual readings on yours?
I just visited a guy with a lack of heat complaint. His installer used 220' of 1" pex to supply a 30 plate HX. The owner has approx 3,500 sq ft of heated space plus two indirect water heaters. The temp drops on the heat exchanger were much higher than I just described which would indicate not enough flow and heat transfer area. His CB Classic spends a lot of time idling even though the system will only maintain about a 60* differential from indoors to out. He did not like what I had to tell say about his installation.
Readings are as follows:
171 from the GW, 156 into the HX, 155 coming out of the HX and 155 going out to the rooms of the house.
returning from the rooms is 140 - 147, 141 returning to the HX, 152 coming out of the HX and 140 returning to the GW.
Thanks,
Tom