Good-bye smoke flap, helllllooooooo smoke hood.

[infinitymike]

looks like a road trip to canada is in order!
I will keep looking and looking.
And my apologies Gasifier. I dont want to take this thread hostage.
So lets get back to the smoke hood.
I considered buying a kitchen range hood and venting that way. Or maybe I could get one for free if I do a kitchen reno.
In fact we are doing an extension to a house that will involve a kitchen reno, I will grab that one!

Mike,

You might as well look at it like this, "I need a nice round number for the project to end on." :lol: $20,000 is a nice round number! :coolsmirk:
The road trip to Canada will cost you dearly. Especially with the wife. :lol: Let me know when you go. I want to find the road you are hauling the tanks back on and take a picture as you go by. Spring for the hood from AHS. It looks good and works good. And you will want to brag about your awesome wood burning set up and wood piles eventually. So the better looking it is, the better bragging.

No, seriously though. I think the hood from AHS is worth it. Easy, just hook up exhaust pipe and wire an outlet in if you do not have one close enough by. If you fab something up, by the time you are done you will have at least $350 into it because of parts and all the time you will put into doing it. Probably more $ than that. Hey, come to think of it, you never ordered that cycle timer and low temp fan shut down option did you? Jeesh, I am still waiting for mine you know. Hellllloooooo, remember you were going to order mine at the same time to save me the time. The pay you next Tuesday thingy.? :lol:

Ooops. Sorry, I have a hard time being serious. :lol:

You are right I didnt buy them, but AHS gave me the part #'s and the wire diagrams are in the manual. I hooked up the low temp shut off. It works great!
I didnt get the parts for the cycle timer yet. But thats easy since it doesn't involve draining the system to put in an aquastat it's just electrical.

So the money I saved buying parts locally i will send to you for yours on Wednesday :lol:

 

[Gasifier]

You are right I didnt buy them, but AHS gave me the part #‘s and the wire diagrams are in the manual. I hooked up the low temp shut off. It works great!

Great! Glad to hear that is working good for you Mike. How much did it cost you for the parts for this? I am going to need to do that sooner or later, hopefully later. :lol: What do they use to allow you to bypass that and start the fire when the boiler is cold for whatever reason?

I didnt get the parts for the cycle timer yet. But thats easy since it doesn’t involve draining the system to put in an aquastat it’s just electrical.
I am not following this? Explain o.c.g.

So the money I saved buying parts locally i will send to you for yours on Wednesday.

Alllllllright! That is good to hear. I will be waiting for it. Oh, well on second thought, you better keep it. You are going to need it as you start to "sneak" more time on Hearth.com again. Then, when she catches and scolds you for ignoring her, you will need it to smooze her with dinner, movie, opera shows, flowers, etc. :lol: You have to keep her happy you know. And make sure she knows you love her! Damn serious with that!

 

[infinitymike]

Gasifier,

First of all you are telling me about making damn sure my wife knows how much I love her? And you changed your signature, hmm.. whats up with that?

As for the low temp shut off I used a Honeywell Dual Aquastat model #L4081B1096. It cost me $140. Plus a regular metal electrical box to hold a regular light switch. Thats it! The light switch is an on/off switch. It is used to bypass the aquastat and also is what kills the fan if the aquastat tells it to. When I start a fire from a dead cold start or when ever the water is lower then the low setting on the aquastat (which i set to 160*) I have to flip the switch to "on" then wait for the water temp to raise higher then 160*, then I can flip the switch to "off" and it wont kill the power to the fan and close the air valve until the water temp drops below 160* again. The other setting is a high temp setting which I have set for 200* which is 15* higher then the setting on the operating limit stat. If the water temp gets higher then 200* it will kill the fan and close the air valve.

The cycle timer is a Intermatic timer box (like the one I have for my pool pump) which hooks up electrically to the power controls. and you put the little pins on the desired time you want power to come one and off.

 

[huffdawg]

Godspeed to any of you brave souls trying to transport a used 1,000 gallon propane tank across the US border.

"Officer, I swear it's empty"
"How do I plan to use it? Obviously I'm going to fill it with hot water in my basement. What else would I use it for?"
"The scrap yard promised me there were no illegal immigrants inside this tank"

I will deliver them for U guys full of BC Bud! We Grow the Best! You'll be able to pay for your heating systems a few times over.. and have a storage tank to boot. LOL

Huff.

 

[Gasifier]

Gasifier, First of all you are telling me about making damn sure my wife knows how much I love her? And you changed your signature, hmm.. whats up with that?
As for the low temp shut off I used a Honeywell Dual Aquastat model #L4081B1096. It cost me $140. Plus a regular metal electrical box to hold a regular light switch. Thats it! The light switch is an on/off switch. It is used to bypass the aquastat and also is what kills the fan if the aquastat tells it to. When I start a fire from a dead cold start or when ever the water is lower then the low setting on the aquastat (which i set to 160*) I have to flip the switch to “on†then wait for the water temp to raise higher then 160*, then I can flip the switch to “off†and it wont kill the power to the fan and close the air valve until the water temp drops below 160* again. The other setting is a high temp setting which I have set for 200* which is 15* higher then the setting on the operating limit stat. If the water temp gets higher then 200* it will kill the fan and close the air valve. The cycle timer is a Intermatic timer box (like the one I have for my pool pump) which hooks up electrically to the power controls. and you put the little pins on the desired time you want power to come one and off.

LOL! Very good Mike. You are very observant. :lol: My wife and I are doing fine. Couldn't be better. I am just trying to go a little more under the radar on the forum for safety reasons. You never know who is out there on the internet o.c.g. Pretty soon you will see me go further and further under the radar. So that I will not have to worry about someone I do not want to be able to identify who the real me is. LOL!

That low temp shut off sounds sweet. Did you wire it yourself. I am electrically challenged. So you are saying your operating limit aquastat is only at 185? As it gets colder you may want to increase your operating limit stat to 190. That may get you a little better heat. I have mine set at 190 and it usually turns off by the time it gets to 184 or so according to the temp gauge on the front right top of boiler. Do you have a thermostat at the very front top of your boiler, the one that came with it? What does that say when the boiler shuts off? I will need to eventually get the cycle timer thing. But now that we have more heat demand I don't even have to worry about it. The Gun went from 07:15 this morning to 07:15 tonight on one load. And the whole tank was still 175. Nice.

 

[Gasifier]

Mr. Incognito Posted: 07 December 2011 08:11 PM [ # 29 ]
Master of Fire
Somewhere in N.Y. state.
Total Posts: 779
Joined 2011-04-24 Gasifier, First of all you are telling me about making damn sure my wife knows how much I love her? And you changed your signature, hmm.. whats up with that?
As for the low temp shut off I used a Honeywell Dual Aquastat model #L4081B1096. It cost me $140. Plus a regular metal electrical box to hold a regular light switch. Thats it! The light switch is an on/off switch. It is used to bypass the aquastat and also is what kills the fan if the aquastat tells it to. When I start a fire from a dead cold start or when ever the water is lower then the low setting on the aquastat (which i set to 160*) I have to flip the switch to “on†then wait for the water temp to raise higher then 160*, then I can flip the switch to “off†and it wont kill the power to the fan and close the air valve until the water temp drops below 160* again. The other setting is a high temp setting which I have set for 200* which is 15* higher then the setting on the operating limit stat. If the water temp gets higher then 200* it will kill the fan and close the air valve. The cycle timer is a Intermatic timer box (like the one I have for my pool pump) which hooks up electrically to the power controls. and you put the little pins on the desired time you want power to come one and off.
LOL! Very good Mike. You are very observant. My wife and I are doing fine. Couldn’t be better. I am just trying to go a little more under the radar on the forum for safety reasons. You never know who is out there on the internet o.c.g. Pretty soon you will see me go further and further under the radar. So that I will not have to worry about someone I do not want to be able to identify who the real me is. LOL!
That low temp shut off sounds sweet. Did you wire it yourself. I am electrically challenged. So you are saying your operating limit aquastat is only at 185? As it gets colder you may want to increase your operating limit stat to 190. That may get you a little better heat. I have mine set at 190 and it usually turns off by the time it gets to 184 or so according to the temp gauge on the front right top of boiler. Do you have a thermostat at the very front top of your boiler, the one that came with it? What does that say when the boiler shuts off? I will need to eventually get the cycle timer thing. But now that we have more heat demand I don’t even have to worry about it. The Gun went from 07:15 this morning to 07:15 tonight on one load. And the whole tank was still 175. Nice.
Yeesh Mike. I even changed my name to Mr. Incognito for a while there. No response. You must have been gone, "or something". :lol: (Did you take her out to dinner and a movie?) Then I had to change it back, I was concerned I might have my real identity on Hearth.com taken/stolen. Then I would be S.O.L., O.C.G.