Gift or headache?

[Nashvillehippiefarmer]

this is my first post here. I grew up with wood stoves. Haven't had one for years but feel reasonably comfortable with them. We recently purchased an old home. It's large and awesome, and the two central heat and air units only keep it warm at great pain (and cost).
My grandmother(possibly the most wonderful, interesting, generous, hardworking woman to walk the earth) has offered to give me her old wood burning stove. I believe it's a huntsman 400DD six draft. It's big. I burnt the hell out of my hand on it when I was a kid. It'll be a heck of a job just getting it out of her house and into mine. No telling what it weighs.
My real question is: is this the right fit for us?
- it's old, in great shape, but probably hasn't been serviced more than cleaning in years
- it's gonna take up a lot of room, and I'll have to put in heat resistant flooring/walls and a chimney.
- how much penatration of heat will I get through out my house. it's basically all one level, the room I'd like to put it in, the largest room in the house (so, even at full blast I think we could be in the room with it), where we spend the most time, is at one end almost detached from the rest of the house. Another possibility is the other end of the house where there is a capped off fire place. The chimney was capped when the roof was replaced. There's a large brick area in the floor it would probably sit on and the stack could probably be run up the old chimney with about as much work as cutting through the roof anywhere else. The house is kind of an "L" shape.
- it's old, and has probably lost some of its original efficiency, and wouldn't be as efficient as the newer models even if it were brand new. Can I upgrade it to increase efficiency ? Maybe seal it well/better? Get one of those catalytic inserts I read about? Other ideas? Are these ideas ridiculous?
- what else haven't I thought of?

Sorry for the wordiness. Just like being thorough.
Any help is appreciated

 

[coaly]

Depends on the outlet size and what you want to do for a chimney. That's the expensive part. It's going to heat 2000 sf plus, and the efficiency isn't reduced since new. Only door gaskets if equipped wear out to change the heat output. They are easily replaced when necessary. A baffle inside is a big help if not equipped. That is the most simple and best improvement.

If this were a 6 inch outlet stove it would be a no-brainer.
The chimney needs to be the same size as the stove outlet. It's probably 8 inch, and can't legally be reduced. So if you build a masonry one with 8 inch flue for it, you would need to put a liner in it someday if you want to upgrade to a newer stove. (most require 6 inch) If you're putting in a metal insulated one, the 8 is more expensive and would still need to be lined or replaced some day for a newer stove. So you need the correct size, and it's best to have any inside the structure, not an exterior type that is difficult to keep hot inside. Stove operation and efficiency is all about the chimney more than the stove.

I've always heated a 1880 sf single level home with manual stoves, no automated or electric heat system. But I built it with an open floor plan, interior chimney up the middle and get a 10 degree drop to the farthest rooms away. I use one variable speed fan about 5 inches square to even the heat to the farthest bedroom. Went to a stove that heats up to 3000 sf, so we're plenty warm without a full load. Farthest bedroom away averages 72 at bedtime and 66 to 68 in the morning. Our heat load is far greater than your location with temps at or below freezing most of the winter. Single digits are not uncommon nights.

The comparable size Fisher is 454 lbs, so figure about 500 if bricked back, sides and bottom. Lift the doors off and keep it on wheels.

And I would keep my hands off it when in operation.

 

[begreen]

Lots of things wrong in that picture. No hearth in front of the stove and it is way too close to nearby combustibles. Depending on your heating needs I would consider passing on this gift and installing a modern stove properly for cleaner more efficient heat.

 

[JayD]

Me thinks that is a picture from Grandma's house, Thats currently no longer being used? If ya have the cash I would buy a new stove, It will use less wood for sure. But if money is tight go for it. looks like it does use a 8" flu pipe.Their is good info on goggle sounds like it pumps out some heat for sure. and would tolerate sub-par wood better the a new EPA stove, The new EPA stoves require really DRY seasoned wood to burn right, That can take 2 years after being cut and split you will need a moisture meter and keep your wood below 20% That can be hard to find if your buying wood. If you chimney can take a 8" pipe I would Go for it and get your feet wet and get you started, Here's a schematic on the stove. Scroll up to {Atlanta} then the Huntsman 400DD/ Ponderosa 24DD (broken link removed) I would put fresh door gaskets on, And set it up so you can clean the chimney easy. Jay

 

[claydogg84]

Lots of things wrong in that picture. No hearth in front of the stove and it is way too close to nearby combustibles. Depending on your heating needs I would consider passing on this gift and installing a modern stove properly for cleaner more efficient heat.

I'm fairly certain the picture is to show you the stove as it sits now, where it's no longer in use. Anyways, I would pass and consider looking for a steel convection stove which would help move the heat around better.

 

[dougand3]

If it helps your grandma to remove it and you get a free stove - that's a good thing. Some negatives are: 8" pipe/chimney - more expensive and 90% of new stoves take 6" ID (if you change it out). No window - can't see how fire behaves and less ambiance (if you like gazing at flames). Clearance to combustibles - you probably need 36" every direction if no label states less.

 

[kennyp2339]

Multiple things need to happen before you light a fire in that stove. First determine if its hooked up to a liner or if its a slammer style (if a slammer style stove, purchase a liner for the chimney). Second - a certified chimney sweep needs to come over and do a thorough inspection of the system, third - determine if that insulation is fire rated, it may or may not be and you probably don't want to find out the hard way, also get a ruler and keep everything combustible atleast 4ft away (couches, TV's, stockings ext.) fourth - is a good dry wood source, you may want to go to home depot or lowes and pick up a wood moisture meter, freshly split open a piece of wood and test the moisture, it should be less than <20% for safer burning. Fifth - do research here or online and ask questions on new stoves, a hint - if your on a budget you may want to look at Englander brand, there great stoves made in the usa and are very efficient (better for the environment) Sixth - once everything is done and safe ..relax and enjoy a great, safe, cheap, and reliable heat source. Merry Christmas.

I should have read your post better - thought you were trying to get that stove running as is, at that spot..sorry.. KP

 

[coaly]

It would help to measure the flue in the capped off fireplace. It could be close to 8 inch and be in good shape. If not, it would need a liner the correct size.

The wider double door stoves were introduced for fire viewing. They usually came with a screen to put into place for open door burning. The only control you have is a damper in the connector pipe with doors open, and most heat goes up the chimney. However cast iron doors radiate more heat into the room than glass. They were not considered a radiant heater in fireplace mode.

The 36 inch clearance mentioned above is correct to a combustible without a heat shield. Normally a 1 inch airspace is left behind cement board faced with brick or stone to reduce clearance down to a foot. (with an air intake at bottom of shield for air circulation behind it)
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear

Another factor you didn't mention is your fuel source. This stove is more lenient for burning less than perfect fuel. Going to a newer stove requires much better seasoning practice and care of the wood. If you have an abundance of wood, you may be satisfied and never need a second liner for a newer stove.