Getting down to details--Fireview installation!!

[begreen]

The metal will need a 1" air gap at the bottom and top. It needs a free flow of air behind it.

Forget the styrofoam in the hearth pad. It gains nothing. Keep it simple and follow Woodstock's plan.

 

[rickw]

Yup, keep it simple. No need for overkill. When I picked up the FV at the factory I asked for a second radiation shield (figured I'd stack them with a little spacer). The woman helping me gave a funny look, until I explained that I was an engineer and was therefore compelled to do things a little "better" than directions. She realized there was no point in arguing and just gave it to me. The bottom runs so cool I never put on the second one.

So just do it the way they say. there is no need to do more - unless you think you might park a different stove there later. In that case all bets are off and you'd need micore, metal studs with air spaces, inches of durock, whatever. For the FV though, the bottom just doesn't throw much heat.

And on the angle iron inside the stove? No. You want that insulating floor for long burns.And you'll want every bit of firebox volume.

You will need a good flue, thick stove gloves, a big ash bucket (like a 10 gal galvanized can), and dry wood. Thats it.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

And right under the stove is an excellent place for drying or warming winter gloves.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I did not buy the rear heat shield, but I should ba able to put the stove as close to the wall as I need to.

I was thinking of putting in a non-combustible wall. When I spoke to Woodstock I asked about clearances. They said that even with a non-combustible wall and heat shield I still had to stay with the 18" clearance. So I am skipping the wall modifications and just buying the heat shield.

If anyone has heard differently, I'm all ears.

 

[dreezon]

I built my hearth to Woodstock's specifications and I just used a power drill and bored decking screws right through the cement board through the sheetmetal and into the plywood.

Me too. Actually, I think I used drywall screws, because that was all I had that was short enough.

Regarding the Durock vs. Hardibacker issue, I guess R value may have been the wrong term. The thing what I was worried about is whether hardibacker is as non-combustible as Durock. It's a different material, and I don't know wether it has a lower burning point. That's also why I went with thinset mortar, whereas I would use mastic for any other interior project. I figured it best to follow WS's directions to the letter.

 

[begreen]

tb, I had forgotten where this is being installed. The flue is going into a fireplace chimney liner, correct? Wrong terminology if so. It is not a wall shield if I understand the installation. This is where pictures and a diagram are sooo useful. I got thrown by forgetting which installation this was. It sounds like all you are doing is creating a surround seal for the fireplace. Is that right? If so, forget about the air space. That is not necessary.

If this is into a masonry fireplace, then there are no rear heat shielding requirements. Normally this would be made out of 22ga sheetmetal and spray painted with high-temp stove paint. In that case, the stove pipe can be in direct contact with the plate. I don't know what temps powder coating paint can reach. You'll have to ask the folks doing the painting.

 

[scotsman]

tb, I had forgotten where this is being installed. The flue is going into a fireplace chimney liner, correct? Wrong terminology if so. It is not a wall shield if I understand the installation. This is where pictures and a diagram are sooo useful. I got thrown by forgetting which installation this was. It sounds like all you are doing is creating a surround seal for the fireplace. Is that right? If so, forget about the air space. That is not necessary.

If this is into a masonry fireplace, then there are no rear heat shielding requirements. Normally this would be made out of 22ga sheetmetal and spray painted with high-temp stove paint. In that case, the stove pipe can be in direct contact with the plate. I don't know what temps powder coating paint can reach. You'll have to ask the folks doing the painting.

No surround seal for FP. I want to be able to get to the T, which will be inside the existing FP box. With only an inch clearance, there shouldn't be much visibility behind the shield. Looks like I'm gonna go with either 16 ga. or 1/8", whichever fills the requirement best.

Flue is going into FP where it will connect to T in liner kit. Insulated liner will connect to top of T and go all the way to top of chimney, which is presently 8" double wall chimney pipe. Since FP area is 4' high by 5' wide and tiled (with 2' by 3' fireplace opening with all of the FP liner left in--see photos), I planned to make a 4' by 5' shield to cover the whole wall beneath the mantel and the bottom of the mantel. The wall shield will be in two 30 x 48 (H) pieces that will fit into a slot I've cut in the base ply, which is 1" from the edge of the pad, and will slide together around the flue pipe. I plan to leave the FP just as is (open) behind the shield. Both sides will be open and the top just below the mantel.

Here are some pics--

 

[begreen]

Great, the pictures help a lot. Thanks for posting them.

 

[scotsman]

Here are the pics of the begining of the hearth pad that goes in front of the FP. The grove is to accept the metal sheild which will stand off 1 1/8" from the wall, which is the amount of plywood to the left of the cut. Couple of other photos show how the HardiBoard will be attached with respect to the cut. The whole shebang will be dry fit until I get the metal and get it powder coated. Then I'll finish it off and tile it.