Frustrated!
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I've found the Montepelier will fit with the 3" extension kit, now to find out if it can be installed in that steel firebox. Not as big of a firebox that I wanted but will get the job done
chimneylinerjames
Feeling the Heat
This is a masonry chimney with a metal firebox. If you cut out the firebox, there will be masonry behind it. You can cut some of it away to make an insert fit. Make sure you install a liner attached to the insert you choose. That flue is too large for an insert.
Made my day, thank you. Got a guy coming to look at it next week. Seems as if there is space between the metal firebox and masonry which would give me more insert options
What are the full dimension of the existing firebox?
How big an area are you trying to heat with the insert and how open is this room to the rest of the house?
Do you plan on night and weekend fires or burning 24/7?
How big an area are you trying to heat with the insert and how open is this room to the rest of the house?
Do you plan on night and weekend fires or burning 24/7?
24/7 burning, 1200sq ft. Floor plan not that open but putting in ceiling fans to help move the air. front opening 32" back opening 23 1/4 height in front 26 height in rear is 11" (thats my problem)
Looking for something that holds 20"-24" splits and will get me thru the night, also has to look good for wife
Looking for something that holds 20"-24" splits and will get me thru the night, also has to look good for wife
I'm confused by those dimensions. Can you give the dimensions as H&W front, H&W rear, Depth top and Depth bottom?
front height 26", front width 32"
rear height 11", rear width 23 1/4"
depth top (haven't measured) depth bottom 20"
rear height 11", rear width 23 1/4"
depth top (haven't measured) depth bottom 20"
Great, that helps a lot. I'm not sure what the wife will find attractive, but you're off to a good start looking at Enviro inserts. They come in the Kodiak or Boston/Venice lines, the difference being the front surround trim and door.
Just to verify, here is what I visualize for your fireplace. Is this correct?
![[Hearth.com] Frustrated!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/98/98788-d59573eb1ccd06f1763eb12fb785d5b2.jpg?hash=JlfMB64tR_ "[Hearth.com] Frustrated!")
![[Hearth.com] Frustrated!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/98/98800-30b555ba3b48fbc5422a25200ac82446.jpg?hash=_FSHtaqQK7 "[Hearth.com] Frustrated!")
Just to verify, here is what I visualize for your fireplace. Is this correct?
YUP exactly! And we love the Venice 1700 but it wont fit will it? Wonder if they make extensions for them to decrease the depth needed like VC does because I think the slope in the back will not let the unit fit correctly
For 1200 sq ft I think you will be fine with the Venice 1200. It's not tiny with 1.8 cu ft capacity. Also take a look at the Jotul C450. It has an adjustable depth that may work here. Good looking stove and well made too.
Have you looked at the Avalon Rainier-45? It's firebox height tapers similarly to your fireplace. Might be worth a look. It projects onto the hearth a good bit too, so it should throw some good radiant heat too.
hmm looks nice too, might be able to get away with the rainier 90 (wife would like that one better) I'll have to measure
Have a guy coming over this afternoon to look and see if we can cut out the metal firebox to make more room
having issues convincing the installer to put in a block plate, he's trying to convince me that the insulation is enough. Thinking of going somewhere else. Here is his response to me asking for a block plate to be installed
Attached here is a re-vision for the single door model, alongside of an update to the double door model. The owner has given a discount for taking the double door model that we stock. If you wish the single door, which we do not stock, we would need to special order it in, with an added cost for freight. Look over both proposals and let us know if you have any questions. Also, we do not do block off plates, but we do insulate at the damper area. It is not required to have the block off plate, that would be if doing a positive connection - not having the liner go the full length of the chimney. We only do full re-lines when we install inserts. (So you are aware, cleaning is absolutely required for wood burning, and with a positive connect, the only way to clean the chimney would be to remove the unit to gain access, {we would charge $375.00 for a cleaning and could not re-install the unit into the fireplace}, with a full re-line, you clean down the liner, removal of the stove is not needed, and we would charge $135.00 for a cleaning.) The chimney is sealed at the top with the top plate, the only opening is down the liner itself. The insulation is simply to help with cold air dropping down. We do all work through permits, there will be an inspection done by your Town's fire inspector. It will be up to whomever does the work on the hearth and mantle to prove to the inspector that what is done meets code. Please contact the store with any questions. Thanks.
Thoughts?
Attached here is a re-vision for the single door model, alongside of an update to the double door model. The owner has given a discount for taking the double door model that we stock. If you wish the single door, which we do not stock, we would need to special order it in, with an added cost for freight. Look over both proposals and let us know if you have any questions. Also, we do not do block off plates, but we do insulate at the damper area. It is not required to have the block off plate, that would be if doing a positive connection - not having the liner go the full length of the chimney. We only do full re-lines when we install inserts. (So you are aware, cleaning is absolutely required for wood burning, and with a positive connect, the only way to clean the chimney would be to remove the unit to gain access, {we would charge $375.00 for a cleaning and could not re-install the unit into the fireplace}, with a full re-line, you clean down the liner, removal of the stove is not needed, and we would charge $135.00 for a cleaning.) The chimney is sealed at the top with the top plate, the only opening is down the liner itself. The insulation is simply to help with cold air dropping down. We do all work through permits, there will be an inspection done by your Town's fire inspector. It will be up to whomever does the work on the hearth and mantle to prove to the inspector that what is done meets code. Please contact the store with any questions. Thanks.
Thoughts?
Nothing out of line in that response, some installers feel it is not needed, and to them it is not needed for code so why bother.
I would just fab it up and have it ready for when they do the install and have them put it in.
I would just fab it up and have it ready for when they do the install and have them put it in.
I replied that I was not expecting it to be done for free and if he could include it in the cost of the quote. I will see what they come back with
here is what they came back with
Hi Sir,
We have never installed a block off plate with any insert in the last 17 years. We will get you a quote to do so if you like. However, we would like to know your expectations on what the plate would accomplish, to be sure we can meet it. There would not be an air tight seal, and it would not help in stopping cold air, that is the reason for the insulation. We will run this by the owner, see if they are willing to install, and get a quote if so. Please let us know what you would like, and if you have any other questions, please contact the store. Thanks.
Hi Sir,
We have never installed a block off plate with any insert in the last 17 years. We will get you a quote to do so if you like. However, we would like to know your expectations on what the plate would accomplish, to be sure we can meet it. There would not be an air tight seal, and it would not help in stopping cold air, that is the reason for the insulation. We will run this by the owner, see if they are willing to install, and get a quote if so. Please let us know what you would like, and if you have any other questions, please contact the store. Thanks.
This is an interior chimney, right? It's going to stay warmer than with an exterior chimney. I would have them pack the damper area tightly with Roxul. Just make sure they do a thorough job. If the masonry absorbs some heat it will be mostly returned to the interior of the house.
yes it is an interior chimney, hes going to quote me with the price for the plate and have a feeling it wont be cheap lol. should i just tell them stuffing with roxul will be fine?
For this installation a Roxul packing should get you most of the way there. With a bale of Roxul they'll have plenty to stuff up there. The trick will be being thorough. Don't let them connect the insert until after you have had a chance to inspect with a flashlight. If they have done it well all you will see is the liner poking out of the Roxul, no gaps.
For a true block-off plate they would probably add a couple hours labor for fabrication and fitting + materials, so yes, it would be pricey. You could do this yourself in advance and then cut the hole when you have the liner location established.
For a true block-off plate they would probably add a couple hours labor for fabrication and fitting + materials, so yes, it would be pricey. You could do this yourself in advance and then cut the hole when you have the liner location established.
You could email them the link to how to make one and they can give you a better quote: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/
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