Scotty,this is my take about whats going on with the over flow by burning straight corn,which I also do. Corn needs more air to burn than a 50/50 mix.By drilling holes in the metal cap and replacing the cap you are limiting the total amount of outside air needed for combustion to just those 3 holes. If that air is not enough 2 things can happen.
1. Because you don't completely burn all the corn up, the left over corn piles up, layer upon layer until the pot overflows or the fire goes out.
2. Because a complete burn is needed and the xtra air needs to come from somewhere,the draft slide needs to be opened to allow more air in.Yes,that brings in the already heated inside air which then may go up the chimney.
If you change your mix, then to get an efficient burn more or less air is needed.Drill more holes or manipulate the draftslide to get the best flame.
On my valve there are 5 black magic marker slash marks. HR1,3,4,5,7. By turning the valve handle to one of these I always get the best burn for my mix. No guess work, only time spent watching the flames on each setting before making the slash mark.
On the pic in my previous post there is the 2 inch plastic valve with the red handle. I used a thick rubber reducer to connect the valve to the air inlet. The rubber reducer is found in the plumbing section. 1 end fits over the valve, the other fits over tha air inlet on your stove.You will see an adjustable metal band that is used to firm up the connection between the inlet and the valve.
The valve is secured to the oak inlet tube with thin metal tape,not duct tape.The tape eliminates any leaks and can be removed if the stove has to be moved.
One final thought,,,when I shut the stove off for cleaning, the valve gets turned off helping reduce the burn and shut down time. On windy days, no cold air gets past the valve.Restarting the stove, just move the valve back to your mark.
1. Because you don't completely burn all the corn up, the left over corn piles up, layer upon layer until the pot overflows or the fire goes out.
2. Because a complete burn is needed and the xtra air needs to come from somewhere,the draft slide needs to be opened to allow more air in.Yes,that brings in the already heated inside air which then may go up the chimney.
If you change your mix, then to get an efficient burn more or less air is needed.Drill more holes or manipulate the draftslide to get the best flame.
On my valve there are 5 black magic marker slash marks. HR1,3,4,5,7. By turning the valve handle to one of these I always get the best burn for my mix. No guess work, only time spent watching the flames on each setting before making the slash mark.
On the pic in my previous post there is the 2 inch plastic valve with the red handle. I used a thick rubber reducer to connect the valve to the air inlet. The rubber reducer is found in the plumbing section. 1 end fits over the valve, the other fits over tha air inlet on your stove.You will see an adjustable metal band that is used to firm up the connection between the inlet and the valve.
The valve is secured to the oak inlet tube with thin metal tape,not duct tape.The tape eliminates any leaks and can be removed if the stove has to be moved.
One final thought,,,when I shut the stove off for cleaning, the valve gets turned off helping reduce the burn and shut down time. On windy days, no cold air gets past the valve.Restarting the stove, just move the valve back to your mark.
