Framing conundrum

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
20,075
Philadelphia
After debating the best plan for a woodshed (hashed out in many past threads... ), the decision has been made to keep my 30 cords of CSS’d wood in three long rows of 10 cords each, with aisles wide enough between them to pull the large wagon thru that I use for hauling wood up to the house.

For zoning reasons, these need to be kept as portable structures, so we’re talking about essentially a pallet with a roof to keep the wood dry. This works out, in my case, to be cribs with a footprint of 8’ x 3’. Each will hold a cord of wood, and while technically mobile, they will be bolted together in a long row. There will be approximately 30 of these cribs.

Yes, I know the many potential disadvantages of this plan, but it has several advantages, and I’m willing to accept the trade-off. The question now is on framing.

Here is the rough sketch of the design:

[Hearth.com] Framing conundrum

Those 2x6 ridge beams, which run 8 feet from side to side at four locations are currently just attached to the four pairs of end wall studs with either four 3” deck screws or two 3” TimberLok fasteners. No jack studs, and I am beginning to wonder if I’ll regret this decision:

[Hearth.com] Framing conundrum

(Ignore the 1x2 strapping I’m using for temporary cross-bracing in this photo)

The roof is only 24 square feet, but we sometimes get up to 3 feet of heavy wet snow in a single shot, so snow load could be high. Yet, this thing is already stupid heavy (like 1000 lb.), which is part of my hesitation. It also messes up some of my fastener plans, if I add the jack studs, such as the thru-bolting with 10” TimberLok’s that I’m using on those knee braces between the floor and each end wall.

Would you skip or add the jack studs under these “soffit” and “ridge” beams?

[Hearth.com] Framing conundrum [Hearth.com] Framing conundrum

One advantage of adding them, additional cost and weight of 8 more 2x4x8 PT’s, is that things tend to get bumped around when operating a front-end loader in the tight quarters that makes up my wood lot. The jack studs would make everything more stout when I’m maneuvering a tractor and making huge piles of logs right next to these racks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The jack studs don’t need to go to the floor. Just a 12” chunk of 2x4 under that 2x6 rafter would provide a lot of support from each additional nail in shear.

Why aren’t you using a nail gun?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlbergSteve
Thanks. I had considered that, but since I don’t do this stuff for a living, I wasn’t sure. That now gives me a third option to fret about. :-)

Why aren’t you using a nail gun?
Two reasons:

1. Got home with the lumber and realized the only 10d nails I had in the cupboard were bright, not galvanized.

2. Since this is just the initial prototype, the deck screws afford me better options to change my mind and reconfigure.

For sure, the production units will be built with a framing nailer for everything overhead.

I will still favor TimberLok’s for everything at or near ground contact, since I anticipate replacing some of that stuff over time, and there’s always some hope I can back out even pretty rotten TimberLok’s.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
I wouldn't trust galvanized nails (electrocoated or hot dipped) to last in ACQ lumber for the lifetime of the structure in an outdoor environment. Galvanization is sacrificial in nature and the copper in the lumber will eventually overwhelm it and result in corrosion of the base material. I've disassembled ACQ structures that were assembled with galvanized hardware and observed significant corrosion after only a few years exposure.
Ceramic coated or stainless fasteners are the way to go. Me, I'd use deck screws.

Caveat - maybe there's some differences in corrosion potential across different ACQ formulations but I haven't seen one yet that didn't cause corrosion almost from day one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sloeffle and Ashful
I'd put in jack studs due to my more is better than fixing it later obsession, but in all honesty 12" cleats beneath each rafter would be plenty of support.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
I'd put in jack studs due to my more is better than fixing it later obsession, but in all honesty 12" cleats beneath each rafter would be plenty of support.
Double studs never hurt, when you bump the thing with a 3000 lb. front-end loader. Of course, they hurt (a lot) when you're trying to move and level the damn thing.
 
It is always easier to do it the hard way first. Put in the jack studs if you intend to hit it with the FEL. Around here we should have steel reinforced flower pots as I have been known to whack them with the FEL.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
What are you using for roof material? I've got the day off so I'm thinking about going to the lumber yard to price materials for a side project and my house.
 
What are you using for roof material? I've got the day off so I'm thinking about going to the lumber yard to price materials for a side project and my house.

I wanted to use cedar shake, both for appearance and weight, but when I priced them at $5/sq.ft., versus cedar-colored architectural asphalt shingles at $1/sq.ft., I had to remind myself that these are just firewood racks hiding on the corner of my property. So, I went the cheap, but heavier, route.

I intend to build up to 30 of these, at 32 sq.ft. of roof on each one, so cedar would have cost me an extra $3000.