Found A Good Source For 1/2" Ceramic Fiber Board For Baffles, etc

[Chuck Pearson]

NP, this is not an equivalent product to what your Quad had. This is lower density and much lower abrasion resistance, basically the same as Kaowool M-board. Temp-wise it's fine, but bump a split into it and you'll leave a significant gash. It will not last long unless you have a very tall firebox where there's no chance of wood coming into contact with it.

The stuff you want would be rated 2500-2800F or higher. I spoke to that vendor in the spring, he told me he would have the higher density board in 1/2" thickness available by this fall. You might want to ask him about it.

This board is not so abrasion resistant but the company that sells the board also sells "rigidizer" that is supposed to provide a protective coating. http://www.skylinecomponents.com/CeramicFiberRigidizer.html I haven't tried it myself. I only have experience with a 3/4" calcium silicate board from another source that flakes and breaks and might make it through the season but isn't good enough that I will use it again.

 

[PaulF]

I have owned an Quada-Fire Isle Royale for 5 years now and been happy with it. I was cleaning out ash today and found the ceramic baffle material that sits above the burn tubes was broken into 5 pieces and mixed in with the ash. I must have lowered it heavily onto a piece of wood when closing the baffle..

After reading threads about where to get replacement ceramic material, I ordered a piece of B12T12C from Skyline Components (http://skylinecomponents.com/In-Stock_CeramicFiber.html).

Does anyone have tips on replacing the ceramic material? I assume the burn tubes need to be removed to install it. I also see there is a narrower piece of ceramic on a plate sitting behind the movable baffle plate. That ceramic looks OK, but if I need to replace it, how is it adhered to the stationary plate?

I assume I should not fire my stove until I replace the ceramic under the tubes because the metal above the tubes might get too hot. Is this true, or can the stove be operated safely without the ceramic but would run less efficiently?

PaulF

 

[DougA]

I found a source for 1/2" board a half hours drive away. I have to pick it up when I am in the area. If it works out after testing on my stove, I will sell it on the 'for sale' section. I want to make sure it is as good as what is supplied by the original mfg. before I sell any. Prices are incredibly good. Probably going to be a month before I know.

 

[blades]

yes true, it is possible to warp the top of the fire box

 

[Irish Reign]

Be careful as most baffle boards are not just RCF boards. Many are formed with special chemicals to give them a hardness throughout the board. This is what allows the board to last over a longer period of time. Your effort to save money by using straight RCF board or even coating it with rigidizer (colloidal silica) could cost you more money over time as you will need to replace the boards more often. And if you use too much rigidizer you nullify the boards insulating values creating even more issues. I would not recommend going outside a local stove shop for insulation materials unless you know they are exact matches. Ultimately you want your insulation manufactured by Pyrotek, Lynn Mfg or RSI. They are the three OEM insulation manufacturers in the US. Be careful with the blanket that goes on top as well. Many are now being manufactured out of Superwool Plus blankets as they are a superior insulator to RCF blankets. The density is key - 8 PCF. Using a lower density will save some $$$ but in the long run will cause problems in your stove. The OEM engineers specified these materials for a reason... Not a good idea to try and reinvent the wheel.

 

[MattFoley772]

Be careful as most baffle boards are not just RCF boards. Many are formed with special chemicals to give them a hardness throughout the board. This is what allows the board to last over a longer period of time. Your effort to save money by using straight RCF board or even coating it with rigidizer (colloidal silica) could cost you more money over time as you will need to replace the boards more often. And if you use too much rigidizer you nullify the boards insulating values creating even more issues. I would not recommend going outside a local stove shop for insulation materials unless you know they are exact matches. Ultimately you want your insulation manufactured by Pyrotek, Lynn Mfg or RSI. They are the three OEM insulation manufacturers in the US. Be careful with the blanket that goes on top as well. Many are now being manufactured out of Superwool Plus blankets as they are a superior insulator to RCF blankets. The density is key - 8 PCF. Using a lower density will save some $$$ but in the long run will cause problems in your stove. The OEM engineers specified these materials for a reason... Not a good idea to try and reinvent the wheel.

It would be helpful if previous posters revealed how long their non-dealer replacement boards lasted. How about it, guys?

 

[Procrastinator]

It would be helpful if previous posters revealed how long their non-dealer replacement boards lasted. How about it, guys?

Any updates on the life of the replacement boards?

Thanks

 

[Tommyz]

I really need the contact info. For this site .please send me the phone number for this company . Text. Would be best . Tom Sparkle chimney services.
406 291 5238.
Thank you .

 

[begreen]

This is an old thread from 2015. The info is likely out of date. It would be best to start a new thread. Is there a specific stove this is needed for?