Flue damper

[DaveNY49]

Does the Fisher Teddy Bear require a pipe damper? I’m not finding info in the manual and I’ve been hearing conflicting things from people. Some say No, while others say YES. And some have said a flue damper is required for when using the stove with the screen on to watch the fire.


Any help?

 

[stoveliker]

I would say that depends on the flue height and other conditions (does it have a baffle) of the install.

With the doors open,I would think you need a larger diameter flue rather than an effectively smaller one (just like a fireplace needs a larger flue cross section than a stove because more air goes in, so more has to go up the flue).

 

[DaveNY49]

I would say that depends on the flue height and other conditions (does it have a baffle) of the install.

With the doors open,I would think you need a larger diameter flue rather than an effectively smaller one (just like a fireplace needs a larger flue cross section than a stove because more air goes in, so more has to go up the flue).

Yes it has a baffle and calls for a 7 inch pipe. My pipe coming off my stove will go up 4 feet through a roof and then another 3 feet

 

[stoveliker]

at 7 ft flue height and a baffle, The chances of needing a damper are low imo. Even for an old stove like this.
But you could install, see how it runs, and add a pipe damper later?

 

[DaveNY49]

at 7 ft flue height and a baffle, The chances of needing a damper are low imo. Even for an old stove like this.
But you could install, see how it runs, and add a pipe damper later?

Well, I’d like to stay away from having. To add one at all lol. But wanted to check first. Let me pick your brain on my other stove ok? Bigger stove, has a baffle, takes 8 inch pipe. The amount of pipe I’ll have coming off the top is about 7-8 feet to the cap outside. Damper needed? Prob not

 

[stoveliker]

I meant install the stove, see how it runs. It's easy to add a damper later.

The other stove I'd say the same.

My experience does not include stoves of this type tho...

 

[DaveNY49]

I meant install the stove, see how it runs. It's easy to add a damper later.

The other stove I'd say the same.

My experience does not include stoves of this type tho...

Someone was telling me having a damper and leaving it open but having it incase if a chimney fire was helpful. So I can instantly kill air to the pipe. But, if I clean my pipes I don’t have to worry about a fire. And I will be cleaning my pipes from inside the stoves straight up with a spinning brush that attaches to a drill. If I have a damper (even wide open) it creates a spot that is hard for the brush to get around AND the damper is a place for creo to build up. Hmmmm.

 

[stoveliker]

A damper is not a safety device in this sense.
It won't kill the air; they don't completely close. Moreover in case of a chimney fire the draft that creates will be so large that the fire in the stove will become a forge even with a damper.

Best to avoid having a chimney fire by burning clean (dry and not smoldering).

 

[begreen]

In general terms the answer is usually yes, a pipe damper is recommended. It helps to slow down the flue gases on these stoves for more complete combustion. Adding a baffle will also help.
While closing the key damper will slow down a fire, it will not completely snuff out a fire. They still allow about 25% of the flue gases to pass. Complete closure would be dangerous.

 

[coaly]

Someone was telling me having a damper and leaving it open but having it incase if a chimney fire was helpful. So I can instantly kill air to the pipe. But, if I clean my pipes I don’t have to worry about a fire. And I will be cleaning my pipes from inside the stoves straight up with a spinning brush that attaches to a drill. If I have a damper (even wide open) it creates a spot that is hard for the brush to get around AND the damper is a place for creo to build up. Hmmmm.

A chimney whip that attaches to a drill navigates an open damper.

The damper area is not a place for creosote to form. Just above the stove is a hotter area in the venting system. It is the cooler area at top where condensing of water vapor takes place that forms creosote.

The need for a damper is not the stove. It is a chimney control. They are required for an over drafting chimney. All stoves have a required draft measured at flue collar. Partially closing the flue damper is a variable resistance that slows the velocity of rising gases. This reduces NET draft. It is a chimney control that affects the stove. Not a stove control.

They were used in older stoves without sealed doors to slow the uncontrolled air leaking onto the stove. A tight stove controls air with air intake.

Stoves with a screen for open burning require a flue damper as this becomes the only fire control with doors open.

With fire established, screen in place, slowly close flue damper until smoke forms at top of doorway. Open slightly to evacuate smoke. This retains as much heat as possible, and is not considered a radiant heater in Fireplace Mode.