Floor protection needs to be level with hearth? (Drolet 1800i insert)

[begreen]

Can you post a picture of the whole fireplace and mantel so that we can see what you are seeing?

 

[philNC]

I don't think so. You need 21" with a heat shield. In an earlier post, you said the surround was at 20.125". You are still a bit short.

And to the mantel it's 16 5/8" so pfffffffft

I kind of feel dumb for not just sending it back and getting the Century but I have already cut an exploratory hole into the drywall.

Also side note...they seem like good people at SBI. The George St Pierre sounding guy who picks up the phone when you go through MyFireplaceProducts is patient and knowledgeable. I wish he could have gotten me out of the shipping cost but that's not his fault.

 

[philNC]

Can you post a picture of the whole fireplace and mantel so that we can see what you are seeing?

Please forgive the clutter.

 

[begreen]

That's very helpful. The mantel looks more like a wood ledge. It is very close to the fireplace opening. Shielding at the stove and under the ledge may be the best you can do outside of splicing in a non-combustible mantel segment or raising it and the brick to make it look right.

 

[philNC]

That's very helpful. The mantel looks more like a wood ledge. It is very close to the fireplace opening. Shielding at the stove and under the ledge may be the best you can do outside of splicing in a non-combustible mantel segment or raising it and the brick to make it look right.

To be compliant with the manufacturer requirements though, as I understand it, I have no choice but to raise the brick and the mantel, right? The good news is the blue you see within the hole in the drywall is simply wood paneling. Behind it is a little air space and then masonry. It's a great relief to have not found any surprises when opening the wall. Cutting out the drywall and wood paneling and laying four more courses of brick shouldn't be that bad. The most upsetting thing is that the brick is painted, so whatever masonry work I add on has to be painted too.

 

[Mech e]

Well, once you get things sorted out, you will be happy with the stove. My Escape 1800 is a very good unit.

 

[EbS-P]

Well at least with a fresh coat of paint you won’t have to worry about brick matching. Will you take the brick up the entire width of the wall and then replace the wood ledge or make it out of brick?

 

[philNC]

Well at least with a fresh coat of paint you won’t have to worry about brick matching. Will you take the brick up the entire width of the wall and then replace the wood ledge or make it out of brick?

Brick up the full width....then not sure if I'll use same wood, source a bigger piece, or make a masonry mantel.

 

[philNC]

Where do people buy the 26ga sheet steel?

I assume aluminum wouldn't suffice.

 

[Mech e]

You can check mcmaster.com or contact a local sheet metal custom part fabricator in your area. Perhaps (broken link removed)

 

[EbS-P]

for the block off plate? I got some weldable steel at Home Depot.

Where do people buy the 26ga sheet steel?

I assume aluminum wouldn't suffice.

 

[philNC]

for the block off plate? I got some weldable steel at Home Depot.

I'm going to try the 22 ga they have. It's that or 28 ga (nope).

 

[EbS-P]

I like the cleanness of the wooden ledge. I think masonry would look a bit harsh for that width. We thought. About tiling over our stone fireplace. In the end we decided to embrace the original design intent. and keep it as a focal point. Trendy is only trendy for a bit.

Brick up the full width....then not sure if I'll use same wood, source a bigger piece, or make a masonry mantel.

 

[philNC]

I was going to use furnace cement to seal around the liner/block off plate...can I just use that to seal the outside edges of the block off plate too?

 

[begreen]

Where do people buy the 26ga sheet steel?

I assume aluminum wouldn't suffice.

Is that for a block-off plate? Look for a sheetmetal shop in your area or maybe check the big box hardware stores.

 

[philNC]

Is that for a block-off plate? Look for a sheetmetal shop in your area or maybe check the big box hardware stores.

I'm going to try 22 ga from Home Depot

 

[begreen]

I would stick with 26ga. 22 ga is not needed and harder to work with, especially with manual tools.

 

[brenndatomu]

22 ga. would be a bear!

 

[begreen]

22 ga. would be a bear!

Yes, I did a lot of tin-knocking in my youth. Never liked those 22ga jobs.

 

[philNC]

Yes, I did a lot of tin-knocking in my youth. Never liked those 22ga jobs.

Is furnace cement OK for around liner AND outside edges where plate meets masonry?

 

[spudman99]

High temperature caulk around the plate and masonry. Easier to apply and has sufficient heat resistance to last. Furnace cement would work but is less flexible - remember 2 different materials expand and contract at different rates.

I used roxul around the liner and the plate. I also had 4" of roxul above the block off plate. If I lose some heat pass the liner/plate seam, it would not be significant and I was not worried.

 

[philNC]

High temperature caulk around the plate and masonry. Easier to apply and has sufficient heat resistance to last. Furnace cement would work but is less flexible - remember 2 different materials expand and contract at different rates.

I used roxul around the liner and the plate. I also had 4" of roxul above the block off plate. If I lose some heat pass the liner/plate seam, it would not be significant and I was not worried.

So you'd recommend caulk around liner/plate joint too? Or cement there?

 

[begreen]

Is furnace cement OK for around liner AND outside edges where plate meets masonry?

Use regular silicone for the flanges where they meet the masonry. Use nothing around the liner, but pack roxul or kaowool above the plate. If the gap around the liner is large you can use some door gasket rope to fill it.

 

[philNC]

Use regular silicone for the flanges where they meet the masonry. Use nothing around the liner, but pack roxul or kaowool above the plate. If the gap around the liner is large you can use some door gasket rope to fill it.

Will do

 

[philNC]

Would this work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Fire-Barrier-10-1-oz-Red-Sanded-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/3372952
Or even latex isn't flexible enough? I'm having trouble finding high temp silicone locally.

Another question:

I was thinking about making my own little extension out of a layer of plywood, two layers of half inch Durock, and tile. The R value would be more than enough. I figured it would be a little more durable than those HyC pads. What I need to know is should I screw the layers of Durock/plywood together or use tile adhesive? I especially was wondering the best way to adhere the Durock to the plywood.