First time stove insert owner - but the install looks really wonky!

[tickbitty]

I love coming back here with updates I actually found the blower fan and motor tucked away in the garage, amonst some other things the previous owner left me - OPTEST SAT. I also discovered that the thermodisc installed was the wrong part, thanks to Mangum providing me with the old Country Flame B26 manual.

I've ordered and received the stack/flue transistion - 8" square-to-round (it's taller than I though it would be), the proper gasket and hardware to secure it in place.

My plan for this season is to make a plank/rail system to slide the stove out of the hearth (so it doesn't slam on the floor...and so I can slide it back into place), have the chimney swept and inspected, and then, thanks to this site's how-to's, install an 8" flex at least to the 1st flue tile, (with sheet metal block) slide the stove back into place, and attach properly.

I'm not sure if it's a lofty goal, but if it goes well, I'll document with pics and post - timeline undetermined. Hopefully someday it might help others

Good luck! That's great effort to make what you have work safely. Did you shine up the pretty brass parts?

 

[VinnyJF]

Good luck! That's great effort to make what you have work safely. Did you shine up the pretty brass parts?

Not yet - but I plan to

@BrotherBart: That's a good idea - I'll look into that! Thanks!

 

[VinnyJF]

*UPDATE*
Some bad news, unfortunately. I had a sweep come by and do an inspection, since I knew that some things were wonky, and I knew that the crown needed repair. Found out, that in addition to my B26 being too big for the hearth, that the previous owners of the house removed the lintel to accommodate the unit..........really bad move from what I'm told.

No lintel means no support, which makes the cracks in the fireplace make sense, in the pattern that they are in I suppose. They recommended that I go with a mason instead of their company, since it would probably save me some money.

And of course, since the damper was removed/rusted out - the cheaper route would be a lock-tight dampner....which means no stove......which means I have a few hundred pounds of steel I can't do much with.


Also waterproofing, ash-dump door....etc.....I'm pretty bummed.......

 

[Jags]

Talk to your mason. He may be able to add the lintel back in and do the repairs, then find an insert that fits.

 

[VinnyJF]

I'm hoping for good news; contacted a mason and is calling me back Monday (only due to my schedule). I may have to put off getting a newer insert until next year - so I may just go open-hearth. If it's way too bad, and beyond my budget....ugh....I don't want to think about it.,.

 

[Jags]

If it's way too bad, and beyond my budget....ugh....I don't want to think about it.,.

Then you get to block it off, build a hearth and use a freestanding stove. WIN!

 

[fossil]

No matter what you decide to do, or where this adventure takes you, the first step is to get that mason over there to inspect, assess, and advise. Man, I cannot imagine anyone thinking it's OK to remove the lintel from across the top of a masonry fireplace opening. Best of luck as this situation unfolds. Rick

 

[VinnyJF]

What really surprises me is that there was an inspection before I bought the house by a chimney sweep......and he said everything was fine and functional....and the cracks were just from "settling"

 

[begreen]

Well, technically he was correct. Factually he was incompetent. In our state we have full disclosure laws on this kind of defect. Not sure about VA or what the statute of limitations is.

 

[VinnyJF]

I think I'm over the inital shock of finding so much wrong: I'm thinking positive, and I'm sure that the lintel reinstall shouldn't be as bad as initially made out to be. I'm pretty sure that my old B26 should work out just fine.....just my lofty goals of refurb will be slower than anticipated. I'll just have to keep it "slammed" for now, slowly save, and see how things go.

 

[VinnyJF]

No matter what you decide to do, or where this adventure takes you, the first step is to get that mason over there to inspect, assess, and advise. Man, I cannot imagine anyone thinking it's OK to remove the lintel from across the top of a masonry fireplace opening. Best of luck as this situation unfolds. Rick

Thanks

 

[granpajohn]

One thing I thought about:
Without the (presumed steel plate) lintel....how did the whole thing fair in this year's earthquake?
If no new cracks appeared, I would feel much better about the structure/strength of the brick.
I don't know exactly where you are in VA, but I bet you felt that earthquake pretty good.

I like the idea of the free-standing stove. Reasonably good chimney strength; replace lintel; good steel liner; check clearance to combustibles.....Install a nice Englander 30 and don't look back.
(That last line is just my opinion, and maybe a little pep talk.)

 

[begreen]

Good point john. I know when we have earthquakes that many "used to be fine" chimneys are no longer in good condition. Mortar falls out and cracks develop, and many chimney tops are holding on by a thread.

 

[VinnyJF]

One thing I thought about:
Without the (presumed steel plate) lintel....how did the whole thing fair in this year's earthquake?
If no new cracks appeared, I would feel much better about the structure/strength of the brick.
I don't know exactly where you are in VA, but I bet you felt that earthquake pretty good.

I like the idea of the free-standing stove. Reasonably good chimney strength; replace lintel; good steel liner; check clearance to combustibles.....Install a nice Englander 30 and don't look back.
(That last line is just my opinion, and maybe a little pep talk.)

....(weird....I responded last night, but the post is missing.....???)

The quake wasn't bad her in VABCH. It doesn't look like any new cracks formed, or if the existing have gotten any worse. I'm hoping that I can just have the lintel put in, and keep the old Country Flame. If not - not sure what I'll do. I should find out some news today.....