I've had my 44Elite since 2003. I haven't had any real smoke issues unless I fire it up without warming the chimney. Ie. operator error. Seeing as it burns pretty much 24/7 when the ambient temps are less than 45* it's not an issue. The unit heats my 2 story 3100 sqft home pretty evenly. When it gets down below 20* heating the outside air takes some efficiency away, but it still works very well. You are correct about removal being a major task. I had a crap-o (technical term) zero clearance removed and the FPX installed one year after building my new home. To see guys working with jackhammers in my brand new family room was a bit disheartening, but very much worth it. I do recommend getting a temp sensor. It takes the guess work out of combustor operation. Here are some before and after pics.
Fireplace Xtrordinair????
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Firestarter, your unit looks great, I can't imagine having to tear one out! We framed out the area for the fireplace this weekend, just waiting for the unit come in so dealer can do install. You mentioned getting a temp sensor to help out with the combustor, could you explain in a little more detail what you're talking about. What procedure do you use when starting a fire in a cold fireplace? Do use any of the log starter blocks that are available? All responses welcome, God bless.
Thanks. The job was large to say the least, but it has already paid for itself. The temp sensor I installed is a digital catalytic monitor from Condar.com. The probe goes flue side of the combustor and it takes the guessing out of combustor ignition. It takes some getting used to seeing the temp rise up over 1000*, but the unit is built for it.wtxfire said:
I would suggest NOT using any of the gel firestarter bricks. It is my opinion only, but they produce concentrated heat and will melt your log grate in no time. I have several wood burning friends who have used them for just one season and ended up replacing various cast iron/steel log and ash grates. Not just in an FPX, but other stoves as well. Again, no research, just my opinion. I use sticks from spring and fall yard pickup as kindling. My grate left after the first season and I just load wood in on bricks or coal bed carefully now making sure there is an air gap under front center.
To start a fire in a cold unit I will ignite a piece on newspaper on top of wood by baffle to start a draft. Usually one piece will do it and I can quickly ignite the paper under the pile at same time. You could also try the "top down" fire starting method, but I never mastered that.
I use the top down and works great.
Git rid of the grate. I shovel the ashes to each side and then place new logs on top to get the air below the new splits.
I am interested in the concor unit, Do you also have the ability to measure the temp stove top. Curious on how the active range on the cat coresponds to the stove top
Git rid of the grate. I shovel the ashes to each side and then place new logs on top to get the air below the new splits.
I am interested in the concor unit, Do you also have the ability to measure the temp stove top. Curious on how the active range on the cat coresponds to the stove top
There are many ways to get the fire going, personal preference probably rules. For me, stir the ashes bringing to the surface any hot coals(if there are any) and spread them out, then I put in a bottom layer of flat splits or wood working scraps, 1/6 of a super cedar firestarter on top of bottom row in center, put down a layer of small splits or rounds, light the firestarter, put a few splitter scrap pieces around it to give it some wood to burn, then fill the box on top of it all with larger splits and rounds. Works like a charm for me.
Top down
2 big splits east west
then 3 smaller splits north south
then a few smaller splits e-w
top off with kindling and little chunk of super cedar
works everytime
Do a search you will find more info if needed
2 big splits east west
then 3 smaller splits north south
then a few smaller splits e-w
top off with kindling and little chunk of super cedar
works everytime
Do a search you will find more info if needed
For you 44 Elite owners, what length of logs/splits do you prefer for your unit. The Xtrodinair can hold up to 32" logs, seems a little big. What do ya'll prefer? Thanks and God bless. Brian
I find I like having various lengths. While it can hold up to 32" in the front of the box that is a tough length to handle with stacking and splitting. I like shorter lengths for the north/south loading. For me, variety works.
oh, I tried the true top down starting method this morning - didnt work at all. Going back to my method that gets the fire roaring fast 100% of the time with same effort. Might work for others but for me it was a waste of time
oh, I tried the true top down starting method this morning - didnt work at all. Going back to my method that gets the fire roaring fast 100% of the time with same effort. Might work for others but for me it was a waste of time
Hey, just wanted to give ya'll an update. Everything is framed out and ready (except the chimney chase) for the install of my 44 Elite. The unit just arived at my dealer on Monday, he can't make it over to install until next wed (2/3). That gives me time to cut the hole in my roof and frame out the chimney chase, been waiting to coordinate this with my roofer so I can have him do the flashing around the chimney. He's able to come on Monday! My stone mason is scheduled to show up the day after the unit is installed to do his magic. I've gotta get down to the ranch and pick up a load of mesquite that has been cut and is ready to go, as well as get started making my mesquite mantel. Sure ready to be burning a fire
! God bless. Brian
! God bless. BrianI have an elite36 and just tonight the blower motor switch started to short out....it started to "hummmm", do I took the switch out and the wire insulation was burning, I then started to move the wires around and something really shorted. Has anyone seen anything like this?
I love the looks of the FPX. I could see myself putting one in a new construction. As far as an existing fireplace, I think my Jotul 550 provides a nice alternative. It is pretty easy to install...heck, I did it myself!
woodhound001 said:
Bummer.
I haven't had that problem.
That pretty much puts your fireplace out of business, doesn't it? What did you do, turn off that circuit on your breaker?
I wonder if the wires were pinched and compromised when it was first installed? What do you think caused it?
Well, I am not 100% sure right now. I took the face plate off and took all the wiring out to take a look. I didn't see any huge signs of arching....I think I might have seen a small one though.
I could not find a wiring schematic for this other than the little they had in the owners guide which is pretty much useless. Here is what I believe happened. I think that 120V comes from the blower where it is hard wired in to the motor variable speed switch. I then believe that the 120 V run to the door switch. When the door is closed the switch lets the current pass through....as the wires and connections look more than just wiring for a contact switch. Looking at the design, the connections of the door switch wires are very close to the back of the steel box that it is in. I think one of these contacts either touched or arced across the wire to the box. The wire has fairly heavy insulation on it, but it is exposed for about 1/8 inch prior to the connection on the switch. I then tried to bend the contact and wire away from the back fo the box a bit. I also noticed that there was a some insulation between the contacts and the back of the box...I am also wonding if somehow there got to be some steel fragments in the insulation that could have caused the arcing as well.
If I had to install this again, I believe I would run a switch next to fire place where the power can be shut down to the blower for whatever reason. I know they hard wire it in so the blower keeps running until the box cools down, but if I had a switch and put tape on it or something where it could not be easily turned off that would be a much better system in the event that something happens electrically or something...in fact I am thinking of doing it anyway this summer.
If any one else sees something like this, let me know what you did to correct it.
I could not find a wiring schematic for this other than the little they had in the owners guide which is pretty much useless. Here is what I believe happened. I think that 120V comes from the blower where it is hard wired in to the motor variable speed switch. I then believe that the 120 V run to the door switch. When the door is closed the switch lets the current pass through....as the wires and connections look more than just wiring for a contact switch. Looking at the design, the connections of the door switch wires are very close to the back of the steel box that it is in. I think one of these contacts either touched or arced across the wire to the box. The wire has fairly heavy insulation on it, but it is exposed for about 1/8 inch prior to the connection on the switch. I then tried to bend the contact and wire away from the back fo the box a bit. I also noticed that there was a some insulation between the contacts and the back of the box...I am also wonding if somehow there got to be some steel fragments in the insulation that could have caused the arcing as well.
If I had to install this again, I believe I would run a switch next to fire place where the power can be shut down to the blower for whatever reason. I know they hard wire it in so the blower keeps running until the box cools down, but if I had a switch and put tape on it or something where it could not be easily turned off that would be a much better system in the event that something happens electrically or something...in fact I am thinking of doing it anyway this summer.
If any one else sees something like this, let me know what you did to correct it.
I am having a 44 elite installed on Wednesday. Instead of hardwiring it I had considered installing a plug or switch that would allow me to disconnect power if needed. I am going to be dropping the electrical today or tomorrow and i'm still not 100% sure what i'm going to do!?!? Is there any downside to installing a switch instead of hardwiring it??? Thanks and God bless.
I am having a 44 elite installed on Wednesday. Instead of hardwiring it I had considered installing a plug or switch that would allow me to disconnect power if needed. I am going to be dropping the electrical today or tomorrow and i'm still not 100% sure what i'm going to do!?!? Is there any downside to installing a switch instead of hardwiring it???
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner....personally the only downside I see is that someone could turn this switch off and then the firebox may get too hot...but, I think that if the switch was in a place that not "in the open" or was secured somehow that it could not be turned off, however I think that having a switch to turn off the power I think is a good thing....as in most situations the blower is not on its own circuit.
good luck and enjoy your new fireplace.
good luck and enjoy your new fireplace.
It's perfect the way it is
Blower kicks on when she is warming up kicks off when she cools down.
Simple
Blower kicks on when she is warming up kicks off when she cools down.
Simple
I have a FPX 33 elite. Non cat, no external air. Had it installed maybe 3 years back. It has worked great. No smoke issues other than 1) if I open tthe doors fast without opening the damper I get a puff, but thats my fault. 2) Once it was hot outside 55F or so, and i just light a fire, and the fire went out, the smoke came in, but thats my fault too. The fireplace is great! I didnt hav ethe summer switch installed (didnt know it was an option) But I did have hte switch controlling the blower, but that only worked after the thermostat clicked on. i just bypassed the thermostat. It seemed to take too long for the thermostat to turn on.
Other suggestions
1) dont bother cleaning the baffel plate, after 3 years i took mine down, it was clean and not fun to take down.
2) I had to modify the bypass to it didnt jam, this was easy to do, but they fixed the problem, so no concerns anymore. (here is how, with pics https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/43774/ )
Thats about it, it is a wonderful fireplace and has probably provided 85% of the heating for my house over the last 3 years. I burn just shy of 2 cords a year to heat my 1800 sqft home (some rooms are kept with doors closed) and i live just outside of philadelphia.
Wonderful fireplace, definitely reccomend!
Rick
Other suggestions
1) dont bother cleaning the baffel plate, after 3 years i took mine down, it was clean and not fun to take down.
2) I had to modify the bypass to it didnt jam, this was easy to do, but they fixed the problem, so no concerns anymore. (here is how, with pics https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/43774/ )
Thats about it, it is a wonderful fireplace and has probably provided 85% of the heating for my house over the last 3 years. I burn just shy of 2 cords a year to heat my 1800 sqft home (some rooms are kept with doors closed) and i live just outside of philadelphia.
Wonderful fireplace, definitely reccomend!
Rick
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