Fire pot fills after 1 night

[SmokeyTheBear]

When you get back home would you please take a picture of the OAK on the outside of the house and post it, or perhaps tell us what you used for a critter screen on it.

Here we are looking for any restriction to the incoming air.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I have the stove adapter, 2 45's to get the pipe line up with the stove, the stove was about 3 inches lower than where the pipe came in through the wall, and a 2ft pipe. I have approximately 10 inches to the wall on one side and 9 on the other.

Ouch, even more EVL.

 

[hmanderson]

The cover is a metal box that came with the kit. It has slots to let air in on the sides and bottom. The front and top are solid. I hope this makes sense.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The cover is a metal box that came with the kit. It has slots to let air in on the sides and bottom. The front and top are solid. I hope this makes sense.

Sounds good on that part and as long as those slots have an open area equal to or greater than the inside diameter of the OAK tubing I'll be happy.

Now have you got any proper material to raise the stove up so you can get rid of one of those 45 degree elbows in the house?

 

[hmanderson]

What do you mean by proper material? As of right now the stove is just sitting on a stove board.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

What do you mean by proper material? As of right now the stove is just sitting on a stove board.

Well for starters something that can handle the weight. Then if that stove board is the proper floor protection for that stove that is all it needs to be able to handle.

 

[jtakeman]

A test to see if less EVL would help is to remove the outside piping temporarily. Put the cap where the tee is now(maybe a 1 foot section of pipe too). See if the stove runs better? If so? Its time to look into 4" venting!

Just saying!

 

[hmanderson]

I don't have anything right now but I am sure I could find something, or make something. Are you thinking like a box made of 2x4 and plywood with the stove board on top? The stove board is proper floor protection. The inspector looked at it the other day and said it was fine.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I don't have anything right now but I am sure I could find something, or make something. Are you thinking like a box made of 2x4 and plywood with the stove board on top? The stove board is proper floor protection. The inspector looked at it the other day and said it was fine.

Yes.

The inspector must not have read the manual to closely or he would have pointed out the bend situation.

 

[hmanderson]

He didn't even look at the manual. I can make a box easy enough to set the stove on. Would putting the T on a 45 angle like one poster mentioned help as well?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

He didn't even look at the manual. I can make a box easy enough to set the stove on. Would putting the T on a 45 angle like one poster mentioned help as well?

It will likely help as well. The goal is to meet the requirements using the smallest number of elbows. I haven't done an EVL calculation for that configuration.

None of this deals with any possible air bypass issues that the stove may have.

 

[hmanderson]

So I should probably do the test the one poster mentioned to see if it is and EVL issue.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

So I should probably do the test the one poster mentioned to see if it is and EVL issue.

You understand that that is a straight code violation and that long term running isn't the safe thing to do.

How long would it take for a test run to determine if that is part of your problem and how much possible smoke back during shut down are you willing to tolerate?

You also have to take into consideration the location of your OAK intake if you decide to do a test.

 

[jtakeman]

So I should probably do the test the one poster mentioned to see if it is and EVL issue.

You understand that that is a straight code violation and that long term running isn't the safe thing to do.

How long would it take for a test run to determine if that is part of your problem and how much possible smoke back during shut down are you willing to tolerate?

You also have to take into consideration the location of your OAK intake if you decide to do a test.

True, I'd only run it under watch(keep an eye on it) While your home. As bear states if you loose power the natural draft without a rise is not there. If you lost power there is a good chance you'd get smoke in the house.

What brand of venting do you have? They make adapter tee's for some brands that let you keep 3" pipe until you go to the tee and the tee increases the pipe to 4" from there. I know duravent has these and assume other brands do as well.

 

[hmanderson]

I have duravent piping right now.

 

[hmanderson]

I want to go cheapest solution possible. If I raise the stove to get rid of one of the 45's and put the T on an angle to get rid of the horizontal pipe outside is there anything else that I could do?

 

[Brewer]

Make sure you're burning good pellets...........garbage in, garbage out.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Yes, make certain your gaskets are good and that all doors or covers that can lead to openings into the firebox close properly and are closed when you burn.

Verify that your burn pot sits tightly in its receptacle.

When you get back to burning tell us all about the flame and pellet action in the burn pot.

 

[DexterDay]

EVL could be a problem.

But he still needs to check gaskets..

Also... I would make sure the burn pot fits into the burn pot liner/receptacle snugly.

The EVL will hurt the burn, but being a brand new stove, I would suspect that the Final inspection of this stove was not up to par. Lots of posts on here about US Stoves with LOTS of air leaks when new (ash pan, door, burn pot, etc).

Take the vert off to check (watching closely), but I would shut the stove down and start searching for burn pot bypass air.

Where is your damper set at? Black glass needs more air.

 

[hmanderson]

I did not get a chance to change around my venting last night but I did inspect the firebox. There are two doors, one on each side of the burn pot area that were loose so I tightened them up. I checked the burn pot and it does have a slight amount of play in it. Also, in the third pic I uploaded I noticed that in the corner there is a little opening between the sidewall and the back wall and the bottom. This opening is on each side and I was wondering if that is supposed to be there or if I should seal it up. I did check the seal on the door and it was tight.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

That opening in the third picture may be fine or not, it depends on where it actually goes and if air can get sucked into the firebox through it.

If you need to seal it make certain you use a sealant that has the correct temperature rating.

I'd also suggest that you visit the iburncorn.com forums and look in the USSC stove sections.


The goal is to have all air entering the stove (except that coming in the air wash) going through the burn pot, not around it.

 

[hmanderson]

I changed the outside pipe by taking off the 2ft piece and the 90. I then turned the T to 45 and put the 3 ft on it. I have not yet taken the 45 off the back of the stove. The burn pot burned a little better, however the glass still turned black and there was still a lot of ash in the stove. It also seems like i am burning through pellets quickly.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I changed the outside pipe by taking off the 2ft piece and the 90. I then turned the T to 45 and put the 3 ft on it. I have not yet taken the 45 off the back of the stove. The burn pot burned a little better, however the glass still turned black and there was still a lot of ash in the stove. It also seems like i am burning through pellets quickly.

Well considering the original EVL was close to 23 and they start squawking at 12 you still are over the limit for 3"

How many pellets you burn is determined by the feed rate you set on the stove and the density of the pellets you are burning.

If you have the stove on a t-stat and also have a lousy burn going it will use more pellets than if it has a good burn going.

Just the two pieces you have behind the stove to make that jog up has an EVL of 10.

 

[imacman]

This past weekend I installed my pellet stove and started running it only at night. I have a Us stove 5500m.....

This is a new or used stove? And yes, you DO need to address that venting. I have the EVL at about 19 or 20.....max for 3" pipe is 15.

The suggestion above of turning the outside T to a 45 degree angle and eliminating the other 90 might be enough.

 

[mikkeeh]

If you need to raise the stove to eliminate one of the 45's you can use patio stones, usually about 1 1/2", or concrete cap blocks, 4thick x 8 x 16 available at Lowes and bldg supply stores for a few bucks a piece. Might help some.