Finished my install. How did I do?

[Huggytree]

Wood I bought reads 15.5% moisture
Oak

Im going to redo interior venting and do 2-45s vs the 90

 

[JamesGuido]

Great looking set-up @Huggytree
is this at your deer camp?

 

[Huggytree]

Yes. Hunting shack

 

[30WCF]

If you add to the class A you may need a roof brace.

 

[stoveliker]

And that 15% was measured as in post 5 after the splits warmed up to room temp inside for 24 hrs?

Buying oak at 15% is unheard of imo...

 

[Huggytree]

No where to warm up the wood.
No I didn’t split it yet.
Just sticking my meter into a piece outside.
Just glad it’s not reading 50% . Finding oak in the middle of winter is difficult in my area. This place was the only one I could find. When they tell you it’s seasoned all you can do is trust them when they are the only game in town. I want my next burn to be as successful as possible

As for the roof brace. I kinda figured - ughhh

The chimney is going to stick way up there.

 

[hearthon]

Looks fantastic, I have a very similar setup but my pipe goes straight up. I don't have any draft issues but I am in a windy area. Similar stove as yours too.

 

[Huggytree]

I strongly regret not just going straight up. Now to change I’ve got siding to fix. You’re way closer than 18” to combustible's?.

 

[stoveliker]

No where to warm up the wood.
No I didn’t split it yet.
Just sticking my meter into a piece outside.
Just glad it’s not reading 50% . Finding oak in the middle of winter is difficult in my area. This place was the only one I could find. When they tell you it’s seasoned all you can do is trust them when they are the only game in town. I want my next burn to be as successful as possible

As for the roof brace. I kinda figured - ughhh

The chimney is going to stick way up there.

Then the moisture content reading doesn't amount to anything.
The outside is the driest part because wood dried from the outside inwards.
And in Wisconsin the water in the wood is frozen now, meaning it won't conduct well and give an artificially low reading.

I suspect the inside is above 30%. Far, far too wet.

 

[Huggytree]

Well that will suck
I’m headed back Friday to work on things. I’ll bring a piece home. Let it warm up over night and split and retest.

It’s the wood I’ve got to work with

Fully seasoned should be 20% or less correct

 

[stoveliker]

Correct.

 

[Huggytree]

Is it typical for firewood to be over 16”?
2/3 of the wood is 17-20”. I’ve gotta chainsaw it down . Kinda irritating.

This is under 16”

This is the pile I’ve got to cut down

paid $360 for this. Pretty sure I didn’t get the full 2 face cord.

 

[stoveliker]

I think that depends on location and vendor.. No "typical" thing imo. Though maybe the 16" allows for usage in most stoves, and that's why it's more common than longer firewood.
Find a different vendor or ask your vendor if he can deliver 16" (show him some pics with measurements).

I don't like getting 16" rounds; so I get logs delivered now and I cut everything 17.5".
That fits, and results in 10% more BTUs I can load in my stove, so 10% longer burn times than 16".

 

[hearthon]

I strongly regret not just going straight up. Now to change I’ve got siding to fix. You’re way closer than 18” to combustible's?.

Ya I'm a lot closer than 18" but I plan on putting a 1" air gap behind it with some sheet metal and then I'll be good for clearances.

 

[bigealta]

Yeah your wood is the main problem.
Good wood fixes many problems.

 

[Huggytree]

Neighbor is borrowing me some to test things.

 

[stovelark]

Huggy, the burning fire picture you posted looked ok- can you put stove top thermometer on top of stove? Looking for 450-650 STT. Good firewood cures a lot of issues, yepper. Good luck with her, stove looks good.

 

[Huggytree]

If I 45 the single wall venting right out of the wall thimble is that a code issue with the venting closer than 18”?

Long term i plan on putting a sheet of cement board on the back wall

 

[stovelark]

Yes that is an issue, why not two 45's instead of the 90 elbow? What is the actual problem, too little heat?

 

[Huggytree]

No draw
I’m trying to improve everything so I have max chance of it working.

 

[30WCF]

Fire is raging. But not much heat.

It just takes a while. Uninsulated walls and a cold cement floor will make it take longer to feel like anything is warming up.
When a room is warm it doesn’t take much to run you out, but it takes longer than you may think to heat up a cold space.
Hit that stove top with an IR heat gun after it’s been ripping for a while and I bet she’s heating and the cabin is just soaking it up.

 

[30WCF]

If I 45 the single wall venting right out of the wall thimble is that a code issue with the venting closer than 18”?

Long term i plan on putting a sheet of cement board on the back wall
View attachment 335221

You just need to trim the horizontal piece (“Y”) to make from the bend in the 45 to the end of the 45 (“X”) equal 18” when added together.
It may mean the two 45s are closer together or possibly even touching like @stovelark suggested.
Calculate this from the estimated finished wall thickness. If it’s just cement board then that’s fine. If you add paneling I’d dry wall you’ll need to account for that.

Double wall has better insulation and will help with the draft if that’s really an issue.

Do one thing at a time because you may not need to do all of it.

 

[Huggytree]

I obviously need to buy a roof brace now
What one is recommended.
What should I put around the bolt hole to make sure the roof doesn’t leak?

Vent is now 13’ from the center of the tee

 

[Huggytree]

Is a 4x8 sheet of cement board enough or should I stack them and go 8’x8’?

I modified my stove venting.

 

[bigealta]

Is that single wall pipe inside or double?

Looks like you said its single wall before? If so i think you might have installed it backwards?
The crimped ends go down so any drips would drip inside the pipe vs getting thru the seams to the exterior.