Feedback on my new Jotul Oslo, liner and stove install

[semipro]

After much deliberation and many posts here I decided to buy an Oslo and install it in a 1st floor great room fireplace. We already have a Firelight in out uninsulated basement. I realized after reading here that I was spending much of the heat output from that stove heating the basement walls and the soil outside them instead of our living area. I thought I'd post the results of my Oslo install efforts here in case someone notices something unsafe or my experience benefits someone else. I've certainly benefited from the information I've found here. It was a fairly involved install mainly because I was installing in a Heatform prefab fireplace. Photos are in the order of their discussion in this text.

Stove choice: We have had good luck with our Firelight and nearby dealer options were limited. I wanted to buy local if possible. VC, Buck, and Hearthstone were my other options. I chose the Oslo because of its heat output rating, physical size, and reviews here. I thought I could make it work in my existing stone fireplace. I did, but it was tough. I didn't chose VC because of recent reports with quality. Hearthstones looked nice but I didn't like the ash handling capabilities. We wanted the look of cast iron not steel so we didn't consider Buck. We did consider a stove with a steel firebox and cast iron exterior but none are sold locally. I wish PE was sold locally. I'd have liked to have had that option.

Chimney lining: I installed a rigid 6" Heatfab 304 stainless liner with insulation in our 25' tall, 12"x12" tile-lined stone chimney. I worked from the roof and had to install in 3 sections; 2 from the top joined as it was lowered in, and 1 from the bottom using a "slip connector" pipe. The last section at the bottom is an adjustable elbow that enters the stove from the top. There is not enough room for a tee at the back of the stove. Ease of flue cleaning was an issue for me so I considered other options since I had no tee (more later on that). I bought lining supplies from Hart's Hearth. They were were knowledgeable, fast, and great to deal with. I highly recommend them. (see photos)

Fireplace modifications: since the existing fireplace was a prefab built into masonry (no combustibles nearby) I modified the Heatform to allow the flue to exit the top of the stove. This involved a cutting torch, lots of cussing, and a bit of masonry work. I also had to modify the fireplace's masonry arch a bit to allow the stove to fit. I installed a 4" outside air supply in what was the ash clean out at the rear of the fireplace. I filled with masonry what was the fresh air supply at the front of the fireplace. I also built and installed a blockoff plate and an OAK adapter for the 3" air inlet at the bottom of the stove. (see photos)

Stove tear-down: because we have no tee at the back of the stove I wanted to be able to access fallen creosote from inside the stove when flue cleaning. I also needed to move the stove up some stairs to our 1st floor. At 440 lb that was going to be tough. I disassembled the stove to inspect and lighten it figuring I needed to be able to remove the top of the stove for flue cleaning anyway. The stove looked pretty well made but I was disappointed by a few things like the washers not installed properly and excessive casting flash left around the the seal between the top an sides. I also noted some gaps and sloppy application of cement. I ground off the casting flash and removed excess cement. I expected better from Jotul especially seeing as they are highly regarded on this forum. (see photos)

Installation: despite careful measuring our first install of the stove in the fireplace revealed that a few "adjustments" were required to the fireplace steel and masonry. Out came the cutting torch and angle grinder with diamond blade. The stove fit on the 2nd try. We installed the stove in in the fireplace disassembled and then reassembled it in place. The stove pipe was clamped in place and sealed with stove cement. Rock wool was used to seal the flue penetration. I was not able to use the flue block-off plates shown in my photos. (see photos)

Outcome: It all just barely fits and our first break-in burn went well. The stove seems to work well and is very airtight. The air control really controls the flame quantity well. I've found that I can remove the top cook plate by removing one bolt accessible from inside the stove and then remove the stove top by removing 3 more bolts. I can then remove the stove top for easy access to the rear outlet area. Hopefully I'll never need to move the stove for flue cleaning. With what I know about the stove from disassembly I feel better about future service required. (see photos)

What's not shown in the photos is a new firewood airlock that I built to the right of the fireplace. I have yet to construct the inner door/bookcase that goes there. More on that later.

Thanks to all that offered advice. 2nd break-in fire is tonight at 300 degrees.

Photo list:
1442 - how it looked after removing the existing direct vent propane stove. Inlet and outlet pipes shown.
1492 - original flue showing heat exchanger tubes and the hole I cut for the new liner pipe.
1537 - looking up inside the fireplace, block-off plate and stainless insulated liner shown
1494 - casting flash left on stove sides where they meet the top gasket
1503 - gap in cement in between stove plates
1524 - the OAK, block-off plate, modified fireplace
1550 - The 1st break-in fire

 

[mikepinto65]

wow, nice job. The Oslo really looks nice next to the stone!

 

[eightpilot]

Were you able to maintain the proper clearance distances to combustibles??

 

[semipro]

Were you able to maintain the proper clearance distances to combustibles??

Yes. The all structure around the Heatform is all masonry. The nearest combustibles are framing members located on either side of the masonry structure. All clearances specified in the Jotul manual were exceeded in the install.

 

[semipro]

wow, nice job. The Oslo really looks nice next to the stone!

Thanks, but I can only take credit for the install. The Norwegians build a pretty stove and some (reportedly drunk) masons are responsible for the rock work.

 

[colebrookman]

Can you load using the side door? That front door would really try my patience. Be safe.
Ed

 

[semipro]

Can you load using the side door? That front door would really try my patience. Be safe.
Ed

Unfortunately no. The door will open about 5" so I can't load splits. I'm used to a top-loading Jotul Firelight so front loading is going to take some patience. The 2nd break-in fire went well but I've found the air control to be very sensitive. I like that though. That indicates to me that the stove is tight and that the air control has enough range. It also gives me hopes of long overnight burns.

Thanks.

 

[colebrookman]

Can you load using the side door? That front door would really try my patience. Be safe.
Ed

Unfortunately no. The door will open about 5" so I can't load splits. I'm used to a top-loading Jotul Firelight so front loading is going to take some patience. The 2nd break-in fire went well but I've found the air control to be very sensitive. I like that though. That indicates to me that the stove is tight and that the air control has enough range. It also gives me hopes of long overnight burns.

Thanks.

You're going to have ashes all over the floor and on the bottom of the door sill every time you fill. Means clean up so be prepared. Any chance on moving it forward so you could use the side door? Clean up gets old fast and just makes one more pain in the neck thing to do. Even worst if the Mrs. has to fill the stove. Be safe.
Ed

 

[semipro]

Can you load using the side door? That front door would really try my patience. Be safe.
Ed

Unfortunately no. The door will open about 5" so I can't load splits. I'm used to a top-loading Jotul Firelight so front loading is going to take some patience. The 2nd break-in fire went well but I've found the air control to be very sensitive. I like that though. That indicates to me that the stove is tight and that the air control has enough range. It also gives me hopes of long overnight burns.

Thanks.

You're going to have ashes all over the floor and on the bottom of the door sill every time you fill. Means clean up so be prepared. Any chance on moving it forward so you could use the side door? Clean up gets old fast and just makes one more pain in the neck thing to do. Even worst if the Mrs. has to fill the stove. Be safe.
Ed

I'm prepared for that solely because so many here reported that issue with the Oslo. I'm also wishing there were some andirons in the stove, at least short ones. I'm worried about wood falling out when I open the front door. I guess I could move it out more but I'd have to add on to the hearth to get the clearance required. That's always a future option.

 

[04RevX]

Can you load using the side door? That front door would really try my patience. Be safe.
Ed

Unfortunately no. The door will open about 5" so I can't load splits. I'm used to a top-loading Jotul Firelight so front loading is going to take some patience. The 2nd break-in fire went well but I've found the air control to be very sensitive. I like that though. That indicates to me that the stove is tight and that the air control has enough range. It also gives me hopes of long overnight burns.

Thanks.

I noticed the same thing about the air control with the first couple of break-in burns on my new Oslo. I was used to my Hearthstone Homestead which wasn't as sensitive and seemed to have a much smaller range. I'm looking forward to a nice warm winter. Nice install!

 

[firefighterjake]

I'm with Colebrookman . . . I love the install, but I think you may get frustrated with the amount of ash coming out of the front on reloads. However, you can always give it a try and see if it is bothersome or not and move it forward a dicel if needed.

 

[semipro]

I'm with Colebrookman . . . I love the install, but I think you may get frustrated with the amount of ash coming out of the front on reloads. However, you can always give it a try and see if it is bothersome or not and move it forward a dicel if needed.

Its not been too bad so far but I'm still considering moving the stove out some to allow side loading and maybe better distribution of the heat produced. The side loading is appealing also because I can use longer fuel and would probably be able to get more wood in the stove for the all too often needed overnight burns.

Thanks!