Experimental stove. Looking for self-build advice!

[chilicough]

yeah i am making this one from scraps and then if it is good i can build it better.

 

[bholler]

yeah i am making this one from scraps and then if it is good i can build it better.

Good plan. And try to make everything as adjustable as possible on the prototypt

 

[xman23]

Just saying, the flow in your drawing is different than my Oslo. Mine is primary air in the bottom front and exhaust hits the top baffle plate, then to the front. Around the top of the baffle plate, out the back. Secondary air tubes below the baffle plate. I have insulated burn plates on the sides. A lot to keep a hot fire box. There's a lot of details from years of building stoves went into this. But study the best out there. Cool idea, wish I had the time to do the same. Good luck.

 

[chilicough]

Thanks, just heading out to the garage to start drilling now.

I have ordered some ceramic fiber board to insulate the stove and put on top of the baffle, it will probably take a couple weeks to come in.

I am going to try a bit of a weird hole pattern to try to increase the vortex effect. I think it would be easiest to drill in holes underneath the fuel post construction so I am going to try to push the fire to the back.

 

[chilicough]

Well, the guts are pretty much done. I will have to skin it order glass and then build the door still.

 

[bholler]

I think you have too many primary holes as compared to the number of secondary holes. But we will see. You can always plug some primary holes with bolts

 

[chilicough]

Yeah I was thinking that as well. When I test I might try putting some bolts into some of the holes as I'm testing it that should give me some good info.

 

[chilicough]

 

[chilicough]

Welded a couple of primary holes shut and decreased 2 of them.

I'm going to make the door huge so that I can work on it after it's "finished" to make any adjustments to it.

 

[snobuilder]

Interesting design.
How will your primary and secondary intake air be controlled?

 

[chilicough]

I will just burn it out doors to test so probably some rock wool in the tube.

If it works well then I will put on a twist, slide, or flap I guess. I will make a little video soon and then if people have suggestions I will consider them.

I'm not a fabricator so there is lots I don't know.

 

[chilicough]

Pretty much done as much as I can before the glass and ceramic board come in. I will make a short video soon so you guys can give me a bit of advice on a few thing.

 

[snobuilder]

I assume the double stack sq. tubing at the bottom back of the stove is your air intake ?...or?

 

[chilicough]

Yeah, bottom is primary, top is tertiary or the one under the baffle. Then each tower has its own air supply as well so everything can be cut off or adjusted.

 

[chilicough]

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Here is a short video showing everything.

Ignor the welds... I'm not a welder.

 

[snobuilder]

Good info.
I'm no expert but admire your build. I like doing the same.
Just a few comments and questions .
The stove seems a bit tall.
I would want the air controls in front.
Will you be lining with fire brick?
Will it have glass in door. If so I would focus on how to achieve a good air wash.
You mention the burley stove, is this a close copy and layout?

 

[chilicough]

1. Yes it seems tall. Because I used what i had laying around i decided i would line the inside top with ceramic board because the steal is maybe a bit thin. So there will be .8" over the baffle and same on the roof.

2. If it works well then I will figure out a way to adjust the air from the front or from the side. I will probably end up drawing air from outside the house so i will have lots of options on how to control that. I might even be able to control it from the wall or something.

3. Ceramic fiber board for the whole thing to keep it nice and hot. Just waiting on it to come in.

4. Waiting on glass as well. Should have a rather large viewing window to see if the burns are all happening. I might put a second layer of glass on if it works well which will help it stay clear. If it becomes an issue then i will weld in a small pipe from one of the primary air holes that will feed around the window.

5. The dimensions are based roughly on the second smallest (i think) burley stove and the vortex secondary burns are from there as well.

I don't have any experience making wood stoves, just rocket stoves and tlud kind of things so i just needed to kind of build one to see how it all works, i know the overall concept is similar but its executed differently. I made the door so that it will open up completely and i can weld primary holes shut and drill new ones once things are more clear to me.

 

[bholler]

1. Yes it seems tall. Because I used what i had laying around i decided i would line the inside top with ceramic board because the steal is maybe a bit thin. So there will be .8" over the baffle and same on the roof.

2. If it works well then I will figure out a way to adjust the air from the front or from the side. I will probably end up drawing air from outside the house so i will have lots of options on how to control that. I might even be able to control it from the wall or something.

3. Ceramic fiber board for the whole thing to keep it nice and hot. Just waiting on it to come in.

4. Waiting on glass as well. Should have a rather large viewing window to see if the burns are all happening. I might put a second layer of glass on if it works well which will help it stay clear. If it becomes an issue then i will weld in a small pipe from one of the primary air holes that will feed around the window.

5. The dimensions are based roughly on the second smallest (i think) burley stove and the vortex secondary burns are from there as well.

I don't have any experience making wood stoves, just rocket stoves and tlud kind of things so i just needed to kind of build one to see how it all works, i know the overall concept is similar but its executed differently. I made the door so that it will open up completely and i can weld primary holes shut and drill new ones once things are more clear to me.

Dont waste the time and money on a second piece of glass. Ceramic glass is expensive. Just a good air wash will work fine

 

[snobuilder]

1. Yes it seems tall. Because I used what i had laying around i decided i would line the inside top with ceramic board because the steal is maybe a bit thin. So there will be .8" over the baffle and same on the roof.

2. If it works well then I will figure out a way to adjust the air from the front or from the side. I will probably end up drawing air from outside the house so i will have lots of options on how to control that. I might even be able to control it from the wall or something.

3. Ceramic fiber board for the whole thing to keep it nice and hot. Just waiting on it to come in.

4. Waiting on glass as well. Should have a rather large viewing window to see if the burns are all happening. I might put a second layer of glass on if it works well which will help it stay clear. If it becomes an issue then i will weld in a small pipe from one of the primary air holes that will feed around the window.

5. The dimensions are based roughly on the second smallest (i think) burley stove and the vortex secondary burns are from there as well.

I don't have any experience making wood stoves, just rocket stoves and tlud kind of things so i just needed to kind of build one to see how it all works, i know the overall concept is similar but its executed differently. I made the door so that it will open up completely and i can weld primary holes shut and drill new ones once things are more clear to me.

Maybe some else knows if there is an ideal height range from base of fire to upper reburn zone.
My DAKA wood furnace conversion ended up with an appox. 16" height which to me is at the upper limit to get a long secondary burn time before coals are too far from air supply.

 

[bholler]

Maybe some else knows if there is an ideal height range from base of fire to upper reburn zone.
My DAKA wood furnace conversion ended up with an appox. 16" height which to me is at the upper limit to get a long secondary burn time before coals are too far from air supply.

I don't think there is a given ideal height. But the height will change the needed size and direction of the holes level of insulation needed etc to achieve optimal secondary combustion.

 

[chilicough]

Maybe some else knows if there is an ideal height range from base of fire to upper reburn zone.
My DAKA wood furnace conversion ended up with an appox. 16" height which to me is at the upper limit to get a long secondary burn time before coals are too far from air supply.

Interesting. Definitely can be an issue with trying to get a tlud to burn long. I think i am at 15" for where the 3rd burn happens which might not even be needed as the burley just uses the 2 side ones. I just thought it was safer to put it in now while it was all open incase the side ones don't really work.

 

[chilicough]

So i measured. If i put in ceramic or brick that fills up the void on either side if the primary air intake (which i was planning on doing) then it is 13" to the 3rd burn in the back of the box. That is on an angle, so it is 15" at the high front end. If i need to reduce it, i can just put in another layer of firebrick or ceramic.

 

[chilicough]

 

[chilicough]

Did a bit more work. Unfortunately I ran out of welding gas and 2 places were out as well. Very frustrating.

I need more ceramic board but it's getting close.

Still waiting for the glass.

 

[chilicough]

Hey guys, pretty close to done. Needs some weld grinding and stuff like that.

Did a small test burn and the primary air doesn't seem to be close to enough. I might weld up some of the holes by the door and add some to the spot under the fire.

I am only running like 2 feet of chimney(for the test), will a longer run help very much or should I put in another 2"X2" of air?

Pics are with the door cracked as it doesn't run well with out that