I have a stand alone and the back cover is easily accessible, so what the heck I will check it out. I will probably have a floor full of pellets by the time I'm done...
Update: I had the service guy come out and asked to do two things. One is to set the damper with the magnehelic gauge and the other was to see if he know why I was not getting the kind of air temp out that others stoves seem to have. He told me that he does not have a gauge and that the damper should be all the way closed. ok.. We then set the temp to the highest setting and he agreed that the temp seemed a bit low. He then asked how I measured the air temp and I pulled out my Fluke meter with temp prob. I held it 1 inch from the exit air pipe and duplicated the 150 degrees. He then held the temp probe there for awhile then he said the temp was up to 200. He had the probe down the pipe.. again, ok.. So I simply said that maybe it is fine and he should go.
I then ordered the magnehelic gauge and it arrived today. I hooked it to the stove and no mater where I put the damper, the needle is pegged all the way to the right. The gauge has a range from 0 to .2, Does anyone know what this means?
There is a screw on the side of the ash tray compartment that is removed and the measurement is taken there. I installed an 1/8 inch fitting so that I could attach the gauge.Where do you have the gage connected on the stove?
Thanks for the information and I might just be overthinking. I have been using the stove for over a month now and it does heat the house quite well. I really wanted to set the draft plate correctly and that is why I bought the gauge, I just wish I got one that had a bit more range. I thought that by having a lower range that I could more precisely set the .15 WC the manual calls for. That didnt work. I will take a video of the flame at different temp settings and you guys can give me your opinion. Thanks again for all your support.i Ltl think you are overthinking all of this
My drawing could be better. The low end of the tube is below the water level and water is added until it reaches the 0 level. The card can also be adjusted to the water level for 0. The tube is tilted to make it easier to read against the scale. The scale is simply lines spaced at 0.1 inch increments. Dye can be added to the water to make it easier to read. This is what they gave us in college to measure vacuum in a lab course. It worked quite well.Will it work it the low end of the tube is above the water level? It looks to me like the water level is below the tube in this drawing. Could the zero level be higher on the card? I'd like to make one of these.
My drawing could be better. The low end of the tube is below the water level and water is added until it reaches the 0 level. The card can also be adjusted to the water level for 0. The tube is tilted to make it easier to read against the scale. The scale is simply lines spaced at 0.1 inch increments. Dye can be added to the water to make it easier to read. This is what they gave us in college to measure vacuum in a lab course. It worked quite well.
Poor man's magnehelic
I don't see why the zero can't be placed half way up the card. That way you can measure positive or negative pressures.Could the zero level be higher on the card?
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