Everything Fisher

[spoon059]

My biggest hurdle right now is that I don't have a raised collar or flange upon which to install a liner. I need to find a collar to install upon the opening and figure out a way to run my damper rod through the collar and make it as airtight as possible.

 

[CamFan]

that is what I was trying to say. 8" versus 6" I stated. Go to a fab shop and ask for a 8" ID 1/4 " wall pipe. I would say 4" is plenty long if you have room in your fire place to slide the insert in and out with this extension welded on. you are good to go.

 

[spoon059]

Ok, I understand now. I cannot believe with all of the Fisher inserts solf over the years that there is not a standard type adaptor that would suffice. This is very frustrating... I've been looking for a Fisher stove for years, finally find one, and can't make the G-D- thing work without spending MORE money... And even then, its going to be expensive AND might still not work...

 

[CamFan]

I understand the frustration, but if you knotch your stainles male adapter like Coaly was saying it would work too. What I am taking about is what I would do for me or if someone came to me and asked me to fix it. It does not mean it is the only way to achive your goal. when the Fishers were made the only thing required for them was a face seal. I do not remember if relinning was even an option back then.

 

[coaly]

Here's another thread discussing the same problem; https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/62099/

If you search "fisher insert adapter" or connecting, adapter ect..... you'll probably find more. It's a common connection problem since they were designed to be slid into the hearth and vent themselves up the existing chimney. You're making a much better installation connecting to a liner.
I have a picture and manufacturer of a piece that works well, but I can't find it ! I'll update this post if / when I find it.
Here's the picture, it's somewhere here on the forum.

Here's another thread with a collar that may help; https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/31766/

 

[spoon059]

Interesting thread, thanks. When I go to the website for the pictured boot, it mentions that you can seal it to the base with flat fiberglass stove gasket material. Would that type of material allow me to SAFELY seal a flange around the damper rod to prevent air leaking? I know that you use fiberglass to seal the fireplace surround to the hearth opening, but I wouldn't think it hold up to the direct heat/flame that might be sneak out of the hole in the flange.

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/item/5RU-90/Grapho-Glas-Flat-Tape-Woodstove-Gasket-5-8-x-84-Long)

 

[coaly]

The purpose of this thread was the Fisher Stove itself, history, and details of the evolution from beginning to end. I'm not an installer or builder, I just display my collection of all the models in the format of a "Fisher Stove Showroom" , that became the basis for hearth and stove retailers today. A LOT of people know I'm into heating with wood and coal, so I find them the Fisher they need, restore it, and sometimes help them install it correctly. More because I deliver it, and help them set it into place. It's not a business, I want to keep it fun. That said;

Sure, any flat door or stove gasket material is fine. They take the heat at the exhaust and is the same material cast iron stove parts are put together with, including the exiting flue flange. It doesn't have to be super tight around the damper rod, you just don't want a 3/4 or 1 inch hole in the pipe where a 1/2" rod goes through to allow air to be sucked up the chimney, cooling the inside, and reducing the draft. (hotter the gasses, the more draft) The fireplace blockoff plate and seal at the chimney / stove connection isn't due to the safety of heat and flames coming out, it's due to air leaking in. Not a safety issue like the exhaust gasket on a car where there is pressure inside the pipe, it's just the opposite. They were designed to be put into a hearth and naturally rise up the chimney. Flames and sparks being present at the damper area in your hearth is what it's designed for. No combustible materials should be used behind the Insert or installing the liner. Gasket material improves draft and prevents the draw of indoor air around the block off plate from going up the chimney. Now, in the event of not cleaning your liner, and experiencing a chimney fire, you'll want a good seal to prevent air from leaking in when you shut the air intakes tight to snuff the fire. Then it becomes a safety issue. A preventable one.

 

[spoon059]

Perfect, exactly what I wanted to hear. I appreciate your responses. I was thinking the draw of the liner would prevent too much air from escaping that little hole, but didn't know for sure.

 

[tickbitty]

OK, here's something I can't explain;

About a month ago I did a search to buy a used Fisher Stove Story. I came up with three in Australia for about 30 bucks each, and one available in the US. I bought the one from Oregon for $8.00 including shipping. Good used condition, thought that was great. Last week, the same bookstore tells me they have another copy for me. They claim it's "Inscribed by Bob Fisher". So I figure they must have gotten a used one and found it was signed years ago. I'll bite, I bought a second one.
Now I wasn't prepared for the shock when I opened a box from Eugene Oregon instead of an envelope like the first one was shipped in. Inside was a BRAND NEW copy, never opened except the front cover to personalise for me and sign as you can see in the pictures below. I didn't scan it, and took a picture of the writing along with the cover so you can see it's written in a new book.
In the Hearth Wiki section of Fisher Stoves at "The Fisher Stove Story" download page there is also a front page signed that Craig was able to scan. The handwriting matches. Mine is written with a blue Sharpie type of marker. I can't explain this.

Holy Cow!! Coaly how did I miss this?! It certainly looks like you got a gift from Bob Fisher! Wow! I guess this means he approves of his biggest fan's obsession!

That is so neat. Congrats.

 

[Redbear86]

wow, i was just reading that fisher stoves ran at about 70% efficiencey, so air tubes add roughly 6-7% and a cat maybe 3-4 more? I think i like my old grandpa a little more now, still havn't burned it yet just cutting the wood this year and no one sells seasoned wood around here. I was assuming the worst when i hear how these things ate through wood but 10-12% difference isnt bad enough to get another stove, especially when this was a $50 pick up.

 

[coaly]

I don't know how you missed it Tick, you must be reading the monster thread as a refresher course now. It would be a huge coincidence if I bought a used book from a bookstore as "signed" and find it personalised to Paul. But this book has also not been opened fully, and is brand new. Coming from a bookstore in Springfield OR being the closest one to Bob's home seems more than coincidence too. Still can't explain it.

Yes Red, Being able to burn what ever you've got without a stove being picky about the wood is a big plus too. I'll clean my chimney more often, cut more wood, and use the $2000 to buy a few more stoves. Didn't want to make a business out of it, but flipping stoves is becoming more appealing in these tougher times. I notice doing a search on "flipping" in thread titles, it hasn't been discussed. I know a few on eBay that make out well reconditioning Fishers. hmmm Fisher Flippers. ;-)

 

[tickbitty]

I don't know how you missed it Tick, you must be reading the monster thread as a refresher course now. It would be a huge coincidence if I bought a used book from a bookstore as "signed" and find it personalised to Paul. But this book has also not been opened fully, and is brand new. Coming from a bookstore in Springfield OR being the closest one to Bob's home seems more than coincidence too. Still can't explain it.

Yeah, I was just browsing back! But anyway - there's no way that is a coincidence. Too cool!

 

[tickbitty]

I have been noticing some cute online stories like this one lately...
http://bestfire.com/about.php?iact=...94&tbnw=167&start=0&ndsp=4&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0
"1977: The Stritsmans were avid wood burners were using an inefficient Franklin stove to heat their home at the time. In 1977 they were out looking to purchase a new wood stove to replace their Franklin stove when they discovered the dealer for Fischer stoves. The dealer was nothing more than 4 stoves being displayed in a shed at the owner's home.
Wayne and Eunice decided a part time business selling stoves may be a good way to supplement their income. So with $1500 and a lot of determination, they converted part of their garage into the first "showroom", and purchased 5 Fisher stoves models: Baby Bear, Mama Bear, Papa Bear, and the Grandma Bear and Grandpa Bear . A wooden sign was built, hung off the Maple tree in front of their home in Wynantskill, NY and "Wynantskill Wood Stoves" was open for business in."

 

[CamFan]

nice article thanks for posting the link.

 

[BrotherBart]

Love it. 1977 was when I had my first wood stove installed. In a brand new house the day before closing. Unforgivably it wasn't a Fischer but a Franklin.

Despite its shortcomings, which were many, I never looked back.

 

[warburtonplayer]

How many pieces of fire brick will my baby bear need?

 

[CamFan]

How many pieces of fire brick will my baby bear need?

I do not have my book with me at the house but I am thinking it takes 22 brick for a baby. This allows one brick to be cut twice for the bottom. Since you have the stove the brick are 4 1/2" wide and 9" long and 1 1/4 thick. It is not hard to figure. Once you rip a brick it is hard to rip it a second time.

 

[coaly]

From my unofficial notes; (I keep my book under my pillow)
18 will give you 1 extra (if you make a bad cut).

Start with 3 across back.
Install 4 on each side starting at back.
Fill in bottom starting at rear with 1 full and a piece across stove. Usually 1 7/8 to 2 inch piece.
Stagger joint on bottom 3 more courses with a 2 inch piece and full brick each course towards front.
Fill in approx. 1 1/4" strip at front on bottom and sides.

I cut them with a tile saw, or diamond blade in angle grinder or masonry blade. They're soft and cut easier than tile or paving bricks.

Your first fire may seem like the stove doesn't heat very well. This is due to moisture in new bricks and will evaporate after the first fire or so. This can happen to bricks absorbing moisture in a stove over the summer in high humidity as well.

 

[Redbear86]

Cool doors

 

[Redbear86]

got a picture of the welders' initials on the bottom of my stove, did a test fire to try and burn off some of the paint before i bring it inside, probly won"t burn it this year but i might get a wild hair to start building the hearth ect while i'm snowed in this winter!

 

[minute_basset]

Newbie here. I moved into a house last year in VT and inherited a Fisher stove. From what I have read here (wow!), I have a Mama bear, pre UL. The previous owners built the house in the early 70s and the stove had been used as a primary heat source and regularly maintained. It looks to be in great condition. We've used it a fair amount and it can get to where it's really throbbing. There's no rust and looks to be original in every way including the funky bear feet stamped with "Fisher Stove" on the top of the feet.

We're renovating the house and decided to go with a pellet stove. I'd like to confirm what I have and decide whether or not to keep it for the garage, or if we decide to sell it, find out what a reasonable price would be. Unfortunately I don't have a camera at the moment to post any pictures. So here's my best to describe it:

The stove is all black with black cast door.

- 29.5" L x 17 3/8" W x 30"H (in back) 24 5/8" H (in front).

- 6" diameter back exit.

- It has a one piece top.

- The legs are one piece angle iron in each corner of the stove and begins to taper slightly below the fire box to the ground.

- The door is 14"H x 13" W and has 4 raised cast trees and what looks like 2 all cast screw vents. It reads "Fisher" across the top of the door, "Patent No D237788" centered just below the vent knobs, and "other patents pendg" across the bottom The handle has the spiral wire knobby tip.

- Pin Hinges are on the right.

- 4 shiny bear feet although their claws don't seem as pointy as some I have seen. The toes are aligned with the square receptor.

- There's no baffle, just fire brick secured with bent iron brackets. It does look like we're ready for some new firebrick along the back. (6 along the sides and what looks like 3 1/2 along the back) .

- I haven't found any other stamps or plates anywhere on the stove.

The previous owners told us a few people were very interested in the stove if we didn't want it including the guy who maintains it. Which led me to researching it's history. Very cool... We were thinking of using it in the new garage, but we didn't design in a proper chimney as we were running out of $$, so I'm not sure how we could really use it out there.

So, what does the experienced peanut gallery think? Is there anyway to install it in the garage with out a brick chimney? It's a 2 story garage/barn building.

If we sell it, what would be a good price to ask? It could use to be buffed up to make it sparkle, but it's in pretty good shape (especially compared to some of the "before" pictures I've seen here - a new paint job, some new fire brick, and I would see if we could upgrade it with some sort of baffle design. (The fire chief told me he had been out at our house a few times cleaning the chimney at 1 am due to chimney fires with the previous owners. We wouldn't want any of that!).

I really appreciate your feedback. Thanks!

By the way, I just saw a set of 4 bear feet on ebay sell for $123!

 

[Redbear86]

if you have an ebay account i'd say sell the bear feet, use the money to build a baffle and look for some used stove pipe around, if you can pick it up used it can be very cheap, I hear burning wood for some people is quite a hassle and not cost efficient, i've bought 3 wood stoves this summer for our new home, sold one of them and it paid for the other two plus a new chainsaw and a few other tools for wood cutting, think i'll just keep an eye out for cheap stoves over the summer and maybe turn a buck on them here and there, haven't bought all my pipe or through the roof kits yet but at the moment i'm ahead monetary wise and haven't burned a log yet

 

[Redbear86]

Coaly and Camfan, I have a question! With my Grandpa doors shut and fire blazing and the lights out i can barely see a sliver of the fire from the side looking in between where the doors meet in the middle, I'm assuming this gap shouldn't be there? Can I give the hinge posts a tap inward to tighten the fit?

 

[coaly]

If you open and lift up on the doors, is there play at the hinge pin? You can put a 3/8 bolt in it to see if it tightens it up first. I wouldn't beat on my Grandpa. That's just wrong.
(I seriously doubt you could move the hinge plates) But remove the doors and keep the pins in the plates so you don't crush the hole out of shape if you have that big of a hammer and really must try.

 

[Redbear86]

I'll have to double check to make sure there is no play at all, I did have to get the rubber mallet out to get the pins all the way down (after painting them) I also still need to put a little grease in them also. For moving the hinge plate I toyed with the idea of "slighty" heating them before "gently" tapping them in. I wouldn't do that until other options were exhausted