Everything Fisher

[coaly]

That picture looks a lot like one I saw on CL in Boise, ID about 4-6 weeks ago. I had given some thought to it for the equipment shed, but alas, it was sold.

New Plymouth Idaho to be exact. It was listed for $200. He accepted $100 to lay it on it's side on a skid, build a crate around it with 2 X 4's and particle board. Then put it on the truck when it arrived with a loader. (Thanks to Bedrock Construction !) $300 shipping terminal to terminal to the East Coast. Fisher prices around you are cheap compared to the East. Regular Mama and Papa Bears are $600 and up around here. So getting an early one for that much isn't absurd. Since I needed an early Papa for my collection, I've reserved myself to the fact that they are only around the originating area, so that's the only way to get one. (You'll have to set your clocks 3 hours ahead to beat me to 'em)

 

[iceisasolid]

I don't want one for a collection, I want one for using it to heat the equipment shed, but I want the Fisher if I can find one for the right price. That one was a very good price. I'll get up earlier next time

Cheers.
-Ray

 

[webbie]

I fixed up that article a bit and posted it in the Fisher wiki page...just in case Google loses it, etc.

 

[coaly]

Another good news article from 1977 mentioning the use of the SUN with wiggling rays on the door as found on the XL due to "development of products in solar energy".
Lists many other old stove makers, retailers and prices, and Bobby Fisher's own retail store at Quackenbush's. Opening his own store the following week will be called "Fisher Stoves and Antiques" in Springfield.

This article (and others on 2 pages) gives a good idea of the fierce competition of stove makers cashing in;
http://news.google.com/newspapers?i...=6830,6934988&dq=fisher+stove+guarantee&hl=en

 

[webbie]

Ok, here's a nice color ad from a dealer mag in 1984.........
Shows a modern Fisher........
Coaly may be King, but the prince has a few tricks in his pile of old mags!

 

[coaly]

I probably should have collected the literature instead of the real thing. A lot easier on the back and wallet.

 

[coaly]

Actually that's the reason I tend to look for the older, early models.
The later ones are just cheaper made, still of good quality, but not the same. The latest Honey Bears only have 1/4" top !

Here's an example of draft caps. I just took a picture of the difference from the later style stove pictured, and the older stoves. The cap in the front is the newer all alluminum, painted the metallic brown color. The two behind the front one are solid brass. The two in the foreground are metallic brown, the rear two black. What a difference in feel and quality.
Perhaps the back side shows the design quality the best;

 

[coaly]

Fisher Wood Stove - Grandma Bear - $700 (Taylors, SC)
Original Fisher Wood Stove - the best and most sought after US made cast iron stoves
Looking for an authentic piece? Perfect for heating home, hunting lodge, cabin and more.
'77 -' 79 Grandma Bear wood stove
Great condition, clean, ready to use
Buyer to pick up or arrange for shipping
17" wide mouth with both doors open, inside 23"w x 20"l, 6" pipe

First, there is an "Articles For Sale Forum" on this website where you will do much better. (Moved, Thanks)

I hope you take this as constructive criticism, and it prevents others from so much incorrect information in a short ad;

This is the typical Craigslist or eBay ad that promotes misinformation on the stoves. Doing some research on this thread should give you an idea of what you have, it's history, and use.

Second, Fisher Stoves are NOT Cast Iron. The main premise of the inventor was a welded steel plate stove to prevent bolting together cast iron pieces that are fragile and require maintenance.

Third, the Fireplace Series requires an 8 inch pipe and chimney. If this stove has an 8 inch outlet, you are required by law to maintain the stove outlet size all the way to to the top of chimney. It should not have a 6 inch pipe or be connected to a 6 inch chimney legally.

Fourth, this design, double door, Fireplace Series is not the "Best and most sought after US made stove". Within the Fisher product, a much more desired model is the more efficient "Bear Series" with single door, that takes longer wood, with longer burn times since a front to back burn is far superior to logs going across. And they use a 6 inch vent, becoming more efficient.

Personally I think anything over $200 is too much for a common bare bones Grandma or Grandpa stove.
This is pre UL Listed, so it's limited to use in many areas. Outlawed totally in Oregon, Washington and California. No brass or plated feet? No fire viewing screen?? The viewable fire was the reason for the double door stove line. Without that, you may as well have the more efficient single door stove that heats the same area. So add $150 feet, $100 screen to a $200 stove for a realistic figure.

Here's an older Grandma that has had the door nickel plated and is a good example of a $700 collectable Fisher for this thread. Finish is Stove Bright Metallic Black. No, it's not for sale.

 

[ckidder3]

Your constructive criticism was very helpful for me. I have a basic Grandma Bear to sell, probably 77-79 judging from what I've seen and read on this forum yesterday and today. I listed mine yesterday on craigslist for $275 and quickly got an offer for $225. I saw this one listed on your site for $700 and quickly removed mine from craigslist and was going to list it here until reading your post mentioning $200. Now I'm going to email the $225 offer and accept it. Thanks for helping me determine the value of my stove.
Chris WNY

 

[Tinsnip]

Greetings! This is my first post. Hope I've picked the right thread. I stumbled on this forum while looking for some answers about maintenance on my Fisher stove. What an incredible wealth of info here! And it's very cool to see the enthusiasm for these great stoves.

My original search was to get some info on installing new stove pipe. The rear output off the stove makes it very difficult to mount pipe either on the inside with the crimp or on the outside with the straight end. What's the trick for mounting new pipe? This is the only picture I have. I think it's a Mama Bear. Can anyone confirm that?

Thanks in advance!
Tinsnip

 

[BrotherBart]

Coaly can give the best advice but the guy that runs the forum has addressed this before. They used to have to do what they called an "Old Mill crimp" with those stoves referring to another brand with the same problem. That problem being that there wasn't any standard for flue outlets and pipe back then.

In other words you buy a crimping tool and crimp the heck out of the pipe so that it fits inside the flue collar and seal it with furnace cement. Don't even think about fitting it over the collar.

 

[coaly]

Yes, you install crimped end down, and if it's a tight fit into the stove, simply over crimp it with a hand crimping tool.
If the stove measures about 24 inches inside, front to back (log size) it's a Mama. Papa will be deeper and take up to 30" log.

 

[Tinsnip]

Thanks for your replies. I'll start hunting for a crimping tool. The stove (which resides in the barn/workshop) came with the house when we bought the place a dozen years ago. The stove pipe that was on it had been installed on the outside of the outlet. But everything I've read says that the pipe should be installed with male ends (crimped) down. I wasn't aware that you could crimp the pipe beyond what was already there. So thanks again!

Tinsnip

 

[webbie]

A number of the older steel stoves has an undersized flue pipe collar - Old Mill also did. I remember hearing the excuse from a rep that the pipe stock they used to cut the collars was a certain size, so they used that - cut with a bandsaw. But, as Coaly says, it's a little tight...well, sometimes worse, it won't fit at all....

The solution we came up with was called the "Old Mill Crimp", so named because we sold a lot of that particular brand. We had to completely recrimp the male end - all the way around. We'd also use the crimpers to straighten it out a bit after we finished the crimp, because it would end up at a steep angle. One straightened, we'd pack furnace cement into the stove collar and then place the pipe into it.

 

[Tinsnip]

OK, well I need to add furnace cement to my list.

As another approach... has anyone tried or know anything about this adapter? http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1027

 

[webby3650]

That adapter will will work good. We just hooked up a papa on Friday and we used that adapter. You will have to drive it on a bit, lay a piece of wood over it and give it a few taps with a hammer.

 

[Tinsnip]

That's very good news since I went ahead and ordered one! It should arrive soon and then I'll be back in business. Thanks!

 

[WES999]

On my Fisher Grandma bear I used a Simpson durablack tee, it fit just fine over the flue collar( it's a rear exit.)

 

[Tinsnip]

Thanks Wes999, good to have another vote for the adapter. Should have mine in a couple of days. And based on info posted above, my Fisher is a Papa with the 30 in. box.

Cheers!
Tinsnip

 

[ForrestBault]

Quick question, did the baby bear come with a top exhaust? All the ones I've seen are out the back.

 

[coaly]

Good question, I've only seen them out the back as well. Probably due to the 6 inch outlet on top would take up just about all the upper cook surface. Most heat would go straight up as well since the 6 inch hole would be 1/3 of the area over the fire. I think a baffle inside would be a must if one was converted to a top vent.

 

[fordracer]

Coaly,could you tell me the size of baffle for a 1973 momma bear stove should be,it also has a back exhaust for stove pipe?thank you.sorry,my pic was to big to post.

 

[coaly]

There wasn't enough air tight stoves around in '73 (being all Fishers) to be concerned with air pollution from them. By 1980, Oregon started the smoke emission laws and baffled stoves were made to roll the smoke back into the fire.

You can add your own 1/4" steel plate just under the outlet pipe, or use 1 1/2" angle iron to make a small frame for a few firebricks to set on for a baffle. Starting under the outlet pipe, and angled upwards on about a 45* angle or less doesn't take away much space for wood.

 

[fordracer]

thanks coaly,it has a baffle plate in it now,im gonna guess its about 8 inx 10 in just below the outlet pipe,i have made a baffle like you are talking about for my 1979 grand ma bear,turned out real nice,i will post a pic of it as soon as i figure out the sizing of the pics,lol,but i had thought about making one for mt momma bear and i was just wandering if you knew what size they were originally,BTW,I just love this foroum,and i love the fisher stoves,IMO,i believe they are the best one made,i have a 1973 momma bear,1979 grandma bear and just got a 1982 grandma bear with glass in the doors and spin dampers on the sides and slide dampers on the doors,will be posting pics soon.thanks

 

[fordracer]

ok,i think i have them loaded this time.