Essex Thermodynamic Corp - I need contact info

[bild50]

Frank- Your configuration seems a little different than mine- My cycle timer is on the side of the electric/control box where all of the circuitry is. The only time I use the purge timer is to reload the fire box. When you are ready to load turn the switch, the unit starts and clears the chamber of smoke and you can load the unit. If you just open the door when there is any fuel left in boiler you are adding air to a very volatile gas and could cause a blow back. That is why the purge timer is there- it allows the gasses to be pushed through the system so the unit can be loaded safely.

My unit has an oil burner attached- It sounds like you have a different boiler that runs in series with the Essex. That is probably good because the ERssex is not really efficient on oil. If i am on wood with the selector switch on auto and the unit runs out of fuel, the oil burner automatically kicks in to keep the boiler up to temp. If the switch is set on wood the unit will run until the boiler heats to temp or you shut it down manually.

If you need any pages from the manual I can probably scan them in and send them as an attachment to an email- Let me know- Jim

 

[lavs4x4]

Thanks again Jim,

My Essex is also a dual fuel setup but the oil portion is not currently hooked up. Glad I asked about the timer. I am missing page 2 and i have up until page 19, not sure how many pages there are supposed to be. I found my manual in the corner of a wet basement is poor condition. I mailed Steve the pages I had so he may need them as well. I would greatly appreciate your help.

Jim whereabouts in CT are you. I grew up in Ledyard/Groton SE CT

Thanks

Frank

 

[bild50]

I live in New Hartford, about 15 miles west of Hartford. There are 31 pages to the manual- some BS some pretty important. Contact me by email to give me your address and I will get them to you by email attachment if I can figure out how to do it with this many pages, or by snail if all else fails. Jim ([email protected])

 

[sgschwend]

To answer your question about turning the damper by hand. My shaft coupler was broken so I took the motor off to replace the coupler and that is when I found the damper was fouled.

I will clean the stove your way next time, a lot easier to have the room when you need it.

As to manuals I could use your schematic pages, it sounds like our controllers are the same, different from Frank's (he was nice enough to send me a copy of his manual). They must have had at least two different controllers. I have the auto switch over to oil too, there is also two temperature set points, one high limit and a delay timing relay.

 

[sebwood]

Was glad to find and read the thread on essex...Had been considering wood gun when a friend offered a used Essex 1000 built in 1982. Original owner used for two years 1982-83. didn't like loading. Had it removed by friend, then the unit sat in barn for past 10 years. Could it be worth the effort? Looks like it is in fairly good condition.

Appreciate any advice, thanks.

 

[sgschwend]

I believe the three folk contributing to this thread have 1980 vintage units too.

I picked my up from a HVAC person who removed it from a house that was purchased and the new owner did not want it. Free would be a great price, I paid more. The down side is the company is just about spent. The up side are the boiler works easily (fire start easy, and can take up to 24" wood), it is a gasification boiler, very serviceable, you can still get the refractory (it sounds like you won't need any), and it was easy to install.

The only thing I have added is a way for the machine to turn itself off when the fuel is gone.

 

[sebwood]

Wow!

Thanks for the reply. Hoping the previous owner can find manual. Unit is in my shop now & we'll give it a thorough going over.
Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks again

 

[bild50]

I made copies of my manual for Steve and Frank and faxed it to them. Maybe if you post a request they will pass along the favor and if not I would be glad to send one along. Your unit should not allot of setup but the manual is extremely valuable for answers to the questions you will have. It is pretty comprehensive. It seems that the essex is pretty much the same as the wood gun, but again you can't beat free. jim

 

[sebwood]

A faxed manual would get me off and running ...Fax 608-734-3453.
I Would gladly contribute to the pay it forward if I ever get the chance!

Sure feel lucky to have found this forum

 

[sgschwend]

I can get one going to you on Friday, but my manual is actually parts of two manual and a fax copy at that.

I would recommend you take some pictures of the boiler controller, front panel switches and the boiler front top and back. Then email those to me and I will forward to the other guys. We can then see who's machine yours matches. That might eliminate some confusion on the manual pages you need. Keep the picture file size down to about 100K each.

Did you open your contoller box? I found a schematic/layout drawing in mine (it only have a few mistakes).

 

[sebwood]

about to head to the shop. I'll take a closer look & take pics as well.
Doing the "Here comes winter" pee-pee dance. Emile

 

[woodfires]

Found ESSEX is still in business and have a website:

(broken link removed)

 

[Rick Stanley]

Amazing what high oil prices can do. I'm in business, no I'm not, sold out, no I didn't, moved to Canada, nope not really, woodgun now, nope alt.heating systems. oops nope Essex again......

 

[Clarkbug]

Im concerned about the fact that the webpage listed above states that:

"Additionally, the introduction of new clean-burning, federally-approved wood stoves and multi-fuel boilers has rekindled interest in the use of wood, household trash, and waste oil as an environmentally responsible source of home heat,â€

How is burning household trash environmentally responsible?

 

[Willman]

How is burning household trash environmentally responsible

Just think of all the fuel saved that the trash trucks use to pick up the trash.

Will

 

[FireGuy12]

We have an Essex Boiler model 1000. I had been looking for Essex for several years in order to find parts, and through this string was able to finally locate where Essex Thermodynamics was located. I contacted Manny looking for parts and we got together to discuss parts, availability and how the boiler works. Although I had thought I knew all about this boiler Manny set me straight and explained how this Gassification boiler actually works. Its a pretty good boiler and we have had ours since the early 1980s. Your can find Manny at (broken link removed), and get his contact information there. For those of you with Essex boilers, be sure to check the pressure relief valve annually, and have a backup before you test the valve since, it may not close. Its you only defense against an over firing or over pressure condition.

 

[drumguy]

Hey Guys,
I'm happy to have found you here. I bought the same boiler (Essex 1000) a few years back and am only now preparing to set it up in new construction.
The guy who sold it had it in his basement; I hope to install it in an unattached shop, about 60 feet from the home. I hope to employ whatever secondary heat is available for the shop.
Originally it was set up with three zones; I guess I was fortunate to receive all the parts necessary including the manual.
As a fresh greenhorn, I'd really appreciate any direction that might be available.

I'll be installing cast iron radiators with black iron pipe, and maybe 50 ball valves all found on Craigslist for a song.

Initially, I'm puzzled with this. Considering 60 feet to move the water from the boiler, do I set up my manifold in the home with individual circulator pumps there and some form of booster pump back at the boiler, using only one hot line to the manifold and one cold return? Or do I install the manifold back where it was originally, on the boiler and run individual hot/cold lines for each of the 3 zones underground to the home?

Thanks

 

[DaveK83]

Hey guys,
I too have a essex thermodynamics multi fuel boiler. To give everyone a little background, I purchased my home from my father in-law. The house was built in 1987 and ever since then my father in-law had used an essex model 1000 to heat home primarily on the wood setting. The oil setting is hooked up and was previously used very sparingly. The home is 1,300 sq feet and I've never had any trouble comfortably heating the home with wood at 70 degrees. I routinely clean the furnace inside and out before every heating season and even every couple of weeks during the season. I must say it is an excellent machine and I've never had any issues with it.


My main question to everyone is that I like many others on this thread, I am in search of an owners manual. Once again, the specifications on the front of the boiler state that it is an essex multi fuel boiler manufactured in 1982 and is a model 1000. The only documentation I have is the wiring diagram inside the electric control box, and an old listing of parts from 1996. I would be extremely appreciative to anyone that possibly had a manual for this particular boiler. I'm trying to do everying possible to make sure that I have no issues with the boiler when it comes to providing documentation to a potential buyer on the function and operation of it.

 

[univet]

This is a COPY of my previous post at this link: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/essex-thermodynamics-are-still-around.73737/ ..................
Here's where we are on the Hot Water Coil issure. I contacted Robert Pacheco (978-870-6537) - left a message one day and got Bob the next evening answering the phone "ESSEX". I explained my Hot Water Coil problem and he said: "Call Triangle Tube in PA and they'll make one up for you". I actually found the Model number on my Coil Plate (Model #15-A). Well ... This AM I called Triangle Tube for some bad news - they chucked all the equipment for making the coils 6 years age. They did say that a company in NY could fabricate one for me (Diversified Heat Transfer - http://www.dhtnet.com/ ... Tel. 820-221-1522). Seeing as I have to pull the unit anyway to measure it and get a few pictures, I contacted a friend who says we can pressurize it with air to find the leak and solder it. So that's where I stand on the issue at the moment. Will post an update later.