Enviro Evolution just quit???? (PIC)

[imacman]

I'm guessing that the blower motor on the Evolution is somewhat different, but thought I'd post pics of the other type of conv. blower that many stoves use, and the oil ports....they are not easy to identify if you don't know what you're looking for.......maybe this will help:

 

[Heaterhunter]

I'm guessing that the blower motor on the Evolution is somewhat different, but thought I'd post pics of the other type of conv. blower that many stoves use, and the oil ports....they are not easy to identify if you don't know what you're looking for.......maybe this will help:

I haven't shut my stove down so I can pull the blower and take a picture due to the cold but I still intend to when it warms up. That picture does help. I think I was looking in the wrong area. Smokey also said their are caps on the oil holes which I do believe their are a couple of little red plastic pieces in similar places to your pic on my motor. Yes the blower on the evolution is different, has a motor with common shaft with squirrel cage on both sides of the motor. Thanks for the pic imacman.

 

[Dgon]

Hello I am new to forum, a great resource!

I own an Inviro Evolution, and it recently quit as well. I read this thread and checked the fuse, but the one fuse is OK,

Everything works on the stove but the ignitor, so I purchased a new one and installed it, but it still does not work, not sure what else it could be, as the fans are working, and the auger is working, all the lights on the panel are working as well. I love the stove and I keep it clean and do regular maintenance.

could it be the circuit board panel?

thanx

-Dave

 

[jtakeman]

Hello I am new to forum, a great resource!

I own an Inviro Evolution, and it recently quit as well. I read this thread and checked the fuse, but the one fuse is OK,

Everything works on the stove but the igniter, so I purchased a new one and installed it, but it still does not work, not sure what else it could be, as the fans are working, and the auger is working, all the lights on the panel are working as well. I love the stove and I keep it clean and do regular maintenance.

could it be the circuit board panel?

thanx

-Dave

Is the igniter getting power? Check it with a meter.

If you have an ohms/multi meter you should also check the resistence of the old igniter. If the resistence is good. Then probably what happened is the 5V relay on the board has bad contacts. The relay is replacable if you have solder skills(you will need to order from digikey). Otherwise you would need to change the board.

 

[Heaterhunter]

Have you attempeted to manually light the stove? Do you have any error codes on the circuit board? How long have you had the stove? If it's an ignitor issue only, then manually lighting the stove should get you back burning again but better yet if you have a meter you could check voltage on your ignitor leads. I had ignitor problems right after buying the stove and I found that the ignitor hole in the burn pot insert (the one that has all the little holes) had an improperly placed/drilled hole for the ignitor to heat the pellets. I dremeled out and elongated the existing hole to accomodate where the ignitor actually was on the burn pot insert(not too big you don't want pellets to fall through). This worked great. Then after burning for 4 more years the burn pot had become somewhat deformed from the heat so I just straightened it out in a vice and the ignitor works much quicker now.

 

[Dgon]

I'll check the original igniter first using a meter (actually my friend is an electrician and I'll ask him for a ohms/ multi meter)

then onto the board, I've had the Evolution for 3 years and no problems!

great advice, I'll let you know how I make out. thank you!

 

[Dgon]

(response to heaterhunter)

I had problems with the ignitor hole, when I originally purchased the stove as well, at times it just didn't line up correctly and you had to "wiggle" the burn pot to get it lined up with the igniter., but
this time the igniter simply does not get hot, after researching the problem I assumed it was just time to replace the igniter, but when I removed it, it looked like it was still in decent shape.

I don't see any error codes on panel as far as I can tell. I did put the stove on "manual" mode with top switch on panel but with not luck,

not sure how to "manually" light the stove, but I would try that out.

I will next try to check the voltage on the igniter with a meter, and work my way toward the panel ($260)

thanks for your help, very helpful

-Dave

 

[Heaterhunter]

I'm certainly not an expert and there are lots on this site so take this with a grain of salt and maybe wait till one of the elders chimes in before trying this but I would light the stove manually and see what happens. Manually lighting the stove for me is using my propane/mapp gas blow torch. Press the power button to turn the normal cycle on and place a good amount of pellets in the pot and put the torch to them to get them started and shut the door.

 

[jtakeman]

I'm certainly not an expert and there are lots on this site so take this with a grain of salt and maybe wait till one of the elders chimes in before trying this but I would light the stove manually and see what happens. Manually lighting the stove for me is using my propane/mapp gas blow torch. Press the power button to turn the normal cycle on and place a good amount of pellets in the pot and put the torch to them to get them started and shut the door.

I think he's calling us old! Well I resemble that remark! hehe

Good info Heaterhunter! Pretty close to how I started mine when I had igniter issues(ask me how I know about the board relay failing?).

Only thing I'd change is don't add pellets. Let the stove do it for you. Once you push the on button it will start dropping pellets. wait right by the stove with the torch in hand. As soon as they stop dropping oipen the door and hit it with the torch. Get a good spot hot and burning. Then shut the door and watch it for a bit. Fire should start to build. If not Hit it with the torch again. I usually get 1st try. Don't be afraid to hold the torch there for a bit. You have like 5 minutes before it goes into shutdown for no Proof Of Fire(POF switch closing due to heat).

 

[Dgon]

The old torch trick! I'll try that in a few

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I use a slightly stronger version of the gel fire starter routine. Stir a hand full of pellets in gelled fire starter, dump it in the pot, add a layer of non gelled pellets. Toss a match at it and leave the door partially open until I have some glowing pellets and hit the start button. One little match is all it takes, it's not as fast as hitting the pellets with a gas torch but it sure works well.

 

[Dgon]

Still looking into the igniter issue on my Enviro Evolution.

thinking it may be the circuit board (part # 50-1477)

anybody know a good online source for parts, (I'd be willing to drive if it's near RI)

-d

 

[Heaterhunter]

I use my dealer that I bought the stove from. I can use lamens terms on the phone with him and he figures out the part numbers for me. Then I pay with a credit card over the phone and he'll have the parts sent to my house. Pretty streamline process :coolsmirk: Maybe someone else will chime in with some internet site you can get parts for half the price, I don't know of one.

 

[Dgon]

Fixed the igniter issue!!

My good friend is an electrician, so we removed all the side panels, and we tested every connection with his meter starting at the igniter, the ignitor was not getting power, next we checked the heat blower, that was not getting power as well.

All the other connections worked and showed they where getting power on the meter.

Next we tested the circuit board using a "bridge" wire and the meter, for testing the connections on the board, the #30 register showed slight visible sign of being blown out, after removing circuit board and looking under strong light you could see the burn marks on panel. So on to Radio Shack in search of a #30 register circuit, of course they had every kind but the #30 so my friend had the idea of soldering 3 #10 registers together and solder attaching back to the board. It worked!

under $1 worth of parts at Radio Shack, better than $260 for a new circuit board! (I have pics, if you need them let me know)

interesting how the circuit board failed right after my 3 year warranty was up.