Englander pdv-25 steel wool mod.

[Pellet rick]

You are thinking correctly smaller means plugging faster but bigger decreases the ability of the air to blow away ashes. But this will also depend on the number of holes drilled and the locations. Most of mine are 3/16". And those are factory holes. I have added more 1/8" and plugged others. Its all a guessing game until the right combo is found.

Thanks, I'm wondering if my sopposed over feeding is because I'm on c mode. Is it possible to get a better flame and more heat using less pellets because they are burning better? Maybe I'm just over feeding my stove. Is that even possible?

 

[Cedarjunki]

Thanks, I'm wondering if my sopposed over feeding is because I'm on c mode. Is it possible to get a better flame and more heat using less pellets because they are burning better? Maybe I'm just over feeding my stove. Is that even possible?

you need right air mixture to burn any given amount of pellets completely. That is what started the whole steelwool thing. Others just sit back and say "its common or its the way these stoves run"

Dropping back to D may help but in the end it probably wont solve the unburnt pellet issue.
You need air focused on the pellets in order for them to burn completely. So its up to you if you decide to keep playing or give in and say yep that burning mass of pellets is normal.
Keep in mind, getting it fine tuned to burn this pellet may cause a problem with another pellet. Some pellets just burn up faster than others.

 

[Pellet rick]

you need right air mixture to burn any given amount of pellets completely. That is what started the whole steelwool thing. Others just sit back and say "its common or its the way these stoves run"

Dropping back to D may help but in the end it probably wont solve the unburnt pellet issue.
You need air focused on the pellets in order for them to burn completely. So its up to you if you decide to keep playing or give in and say yep that burning mass of pellets is normal.
Keep in mind, getting it fine tuned to burn this pellet may cause a problem with another pellet. Some pellets just burn up faster than others.

Thanks but if you would know me I have to tinker if I feel something could be working better. I guess after work I will lower the burn plate in the prototype to allow the pellets to drop and hopefully role away from the auger . Plus I am going to try to see if I can make a sort of ramp under the plate to direct as much of the air directly to the plate instead of blowing around under the plate in the box.

 

[Cedarjunki]

Thanks but if you would know me I have to tinker if I feel something could be working better. I guess after work I will lower the burn plate in the prototype to allow the pellets to drop and hopefully role away from the auger . Plus I am going to try to see if I can make a sort of ramp under the plate to direct as much of the air directly to the plate instead of blowing around under the plate in the box.

Depending how the plate fits in the pot.. some rope gasket or the flat gasket material with the sticky back works.

And i know how it is, believe me. I have made 4 diff plates for mine so far. Next step is to modify the pot itself so i can make the plate sit differently. But pellet is the main source of heat right now so i dont dare breaking it at this point. Warm weather is coming tho.

 

[Pellet rick]

Depending how the plate fits in the pot.. some rope gasket or the flat gasket material with the sticky back works.

And i know how it is, believe me. I have made 4 diff plates for mine so far. Next step is to modify the pot itself so i can make the plate sit differently. But pellet is the main source of heat right now so i dont dare breaking it at this point. Warm weather is coming tho.

I hear ya , it's my primary source also. That's why I'm not modifying the stock plate or pot. Everything I am making is brand new fab. That way I can just put it back to stock quickly.

 

[Pellet rick]

Just noticed something on my stove , I think. I have movement in my glass in the door. It moves side to side but does not seem to have ply front to back of the stove. Could this be affecting my air to the pot

 

[Cedarjunki]

Just noticed something on my stove , I think. I have movement in my glass in the door. It moves side to side but does not seem to have ply front to back of the stove. Could this be affecting my air to the pot

Use a lighter and hold the flame going slowly around the outer edge of the glass.. with door closed and stove running... if the flame gets sucked into the seal then yes most deff. I would pick up a new gasket and change it regardless if its that loose.

 

[Pellet rick]

Use a lighter and hold the flame going slowly around the outer edge of the glass.. with door closed and stove running... if the flame gets sucked into the seal then yes most deff. I would pick up a new gasket and change it regardless if its that loose.

Doesn't seem to suck the flame in . how hard is it to replace the seal. Bolts worry me , being in that kind of heat. With breakage I mean

 

[Cedarjunki]

Doesn't seem to suck the flame in . how hard is it to replace the seal. Bolts worry me , being in that kind of heat. With breakage I mean

Its too easy not too...mine is 16 years old.. not sure how many times it was donr before. Bit the bolts came right out

 

[mac fire]

Just noticed something on my stove , I think. I have movement in my glass in the door. It moves side to side but does not seem to have ply front to back of the stove. Could this be affecting my air to the pot

I just put the plugs in my 2005 PDVC and I notice the change in the way it is burning. The flame is higher and the pellets are completely burning up instead the piling up. It is by far a better burn and better heat.

It is funny you brought this up. The one thing I noticed is that when I opened the hopper I noticed the flame changed a lot. This was never noticed before without the plugs in placed. The flame cuts down and is drawn to the door. Just unlatching the hopper makes a difference and I can just push down on the hopper lid and watch the flame change. So you and a helper can test your hopper lid by pushing it down and watch the flame for a change. So just a little bit of air can change the flame. I thought my hopper seal was good before the plugs were put in. I adjust the latches and cannot adjust any more. I will
need to order a new hopper gasket as this one is sealing but I have no more adjustment and is ten years old.


I think you need to look at controlling the OAK air better. My 6039 stove I had to install a shut off valve on the OAK and had to plug the big wholes behind the firebrick. This stove was hopeless without it.

You may be able to make a better burn pot but having better control of the air is the key.

Doesn't seem to suck the flame in . how hard is it to replace the seal. Bolts worry me , being in that kind of heat. With breakage I mean

I have heard of using candle wax. Heat bolt- apply wax- turn bolt. Apply wax, screw back in then turn out. Repeat until it is removed.

 

[Cedarjunki]

You can have as much control over the intake of air as you want but if the air is not directed thru the pellets it is pointless.

I just put the plugs in my 2005 PDVC and I notice the change in the way it is burning. The flame is higher and the pellets are completely burning up instead the piling up. It is by far a better burn and better heat.

It is funny you brought this up. The one thing I noticed is that when I opened the hopper I noticed the flame changed a lot. This was never noticed before without the plugs in placed. The flame cuts down and is drawn to the door. Just unlatching the hopper makes a difference and I can just push down on the hopper lid and watch the flame change. So you and a helper can test your hopper lid by pushing it down and watch the flame for a change. So just a little bit of air can change the flame. I thought my hopper seal was good before the plugs were put in. I adjust the latches and cannot adjust any more. I will
need to order a new hopper gasket as this one is sealing but I have no more adjustment and is ten years old.


I think you need to look at controlling the OAK air better. My 6039 stove I had to install a shut off valve on the OAK and had to plug the big wholes behind the firebrick. This stove was hopeless without it.

You may be able to make a better burn pot but having better control of the air is the key.




I have heard of using candle wax. Heat bolt- apply wax- turn bolt. Apply wax, screw back in then turn out. Repeat until it is removed.

Please explain how you think cutting down the airflow from the oak is going to help provide more air to the pellets.

 

[flybmw02]

On the oak airflow, I decrease the air In it increased the velocity cut down on the volume and stop the stove from chugging. the stove got hotter and the exhaust temp went down. This is what I experienced.
John

 

[Cedarjunki]

On the oak airflow, I decrease the air In it increased the velocity cut down on the volume and stop the stove from chugging. the stove got hotter and the exhaust temp went down. This is what I experienced.
John

Part of that makes sense to me.. i will need to actually try it to see for myself. One thing im curious about, restricting the flow enough to increase the velocity must put more strain on the blower.? Wonder how much it will reduce the lifespan of the motor.

I am aware other stoves are designed this way and use butterflies and gates to control air flow but they also use diff motors.
Thoughts?

 

[Dr.Faustus]

Doesn't seem to suck the flame in . how hard is it to replace the seal. Bolts worry me , being in that kind of heat. With breakage I mean

My bolts didnt break but they did strip one of the holes trying to get them back in. quick trip to HD and a few bucks later had me the ability to retap the threads. I really just went with the same size. Cleaned it up enough so the bolts work great again.

 

[flybmw02]

I have found that almost all the stoves out there use the same 3000 rpm motors. I would not worry about extra load.

 

[DrewBoogie]

My stove chugs more now with the holes plugged. it used to only do it on heat setting 9, now it will do it 6 through 9. I kinda like it though, it shakes the stove enough to keep the pellets sliding down the hopper and into the augur.

I thought about regulating air flow like flybmw talks about to eliminate chugging until I noticed less and less pellets getting stuck to the walls in my hopper. I don't think the chugging is having a negative effect on anything else related to my stove and it's performance.

I've had the wholes plugged under the burn plate for maybe 2 weeks now and wish I did it sooner. Still very happy with the performance of the stove, meaning more completely burned pellets, more heat output and significantly cleaner glass than before. Like others said, this won't turn your stove into a high end stove that you don't need to maintain. It just makes the burn better and lets you scrape the pot a few less times per day.

I'm burning good softies, I have not burned any other hardwoods since this mod, but they are a much better pellet than any other's I've burned. I'm interested to see what you guys who are burning not so good pellets are doing now vs. before the holes were plugged. I may go grab a few bags of Green Supremes and see how they burn now. I burned a ton last year and they were not great, wonder if this makes them better for my stove.

 

[Hot Foot]

I have had good luck burning the ThermaGlo pellets since plugging the top two holes. I ended up with no unburned pellets, a finer ash and clearer glass. Prior to plugging the air holes, I was burning Vermont wood pellets but still ended up with the overflowing burn pot. They are a great product but at $2.00 more per bag, I can now burn the ThermaGlos with no problems. I still have to scrape the burn pot twice a day. It would be great if one of the newer Englander burn pots, or an aftermarket burn pot could be installed in this model.

 

[jintoreedwine]

I just decided to try this mod myself this weekend. I had to go to the hardware store anyway so I picked up steel plugs and plugged the two large top holes. I realize this still lets air out the small holes on the sides on the burn pot, but I wanted it that way. I am quite impressed with how much cleaner the glass stays and how much better the pellets seem to be burning on the higher heat settings!

 

[Hot Foot]

I just decided to try this mod myself this weekend. I had to go to the hardware store anyway so I picked up steel plugs and plugged the two large top holes. I realize this still lets air out the small holes on the sides on the burn pot, but I wanted it that way. I am quite impressed with how much cleaner the glass stays and how much better the pellets seem to be burning on the higher heat settings!

You may want to make some metal clips to prevent the plugs from falling out. I tried using RTV copper on them but they still fall out. The metal clips prevent that.

 

[johnnyb1970]

Where are these holes under burn plate anyone have pictures. Thanks

 

[Dr.Faustus]

You may want to make some metal clips to prevent the plugs from falling out. I tried using RTV copper on them but they still fall out. The metal clips prevent that.

I cleaned up the holes first with some sandpaper as best i could, then wiped down with some alcohol. then used some high temp rtv on the plugs. they seems to clip themselves in but the sealant was just for good measure. so far they are still in there...

 

[Cedarjunki]

I have had good luck burning the ThermaGlo pellets since plugging the top two holes. I ended up with no unburned pellets, a finer ash and clearer glass. Prior to plugging the air holes, I was burning Vermont wood pellets but still ended up with the overflowing burn pot. They are a great product but at $2.00 more per bag, I can now burn the ThermaGlos with no problems. I still have to scrape the burn pot twice a day. It would be great if one of the newer Englander burn pots, or an aftermarket burn pot could be installed in this model.

I highly doubt you will ever see an after market pot. Those large holes were needed in order to satisfy the new emission regulations. If anything i think you are going to see these stoves discontinued before they risk failing testing. Just my opinion after reading thru the numerous hours of posts in the past.

 

[Michael6268]

A while back Englander said they most likely were discontinuing these models.

 

[Dr.Faustus]

Thats a shame, I like mine. I would buy another if this one became non repairable.

 

[Cedarjunki]

A while back Englander said they most likely were discontinuing these models.

Thats a shame, I like mine. I would buy another if this one became non repairable.

As long as they havnt cheaped out on the steel i dont think the stove will wear out for a long time. Mine is 16 years old and you would never know by looking at it