MDFisherman
Burning Hunk
So first, you need to be sure of what ESW told you. There is the big round hole in the back that is the primary air intake. Right above that hole is a rectangular cutout that is the air supply for the tubes that make up the secondary combustion system. I think they wanted you to block that swqaure one off by 1/3 but do you know? Finally, for the sake of completeness, under the stove in the front two corners are 1/2" holes that both feed the doghouse air inlet. Blocking any and all of those holes is fair game if you feel like the stove is running away on you.
When you inadvertently get it hotter than you would like and you quickly close down the intake rod, the other air inlets will increase air flow into the firebox to relieve the vacuum and cleanly combust the offgassing fuel. It might look like shutting the air control made it worse for a little while but just wait for things to settle. Maybe a few minutes before temps start to react to shutting the air on a ripping non-cat.
I've actually melted the air wash plate on mine by leaving the throttle at 100% for too long when starting a fresh fire. No big deal. I now start the stove at 100% throttle but then back down to 75% or so as soon as possible, then let it warm up to 600 or so before sliding the rod in farther to my cruise setting that tops out in the 700 range. Some folks like you with very strong draft might be closing things down even sooner to maintain control. That is easier than trying to recover and wastes less fuel too!
Man you got that thing loaded up! I first saw my secondary burn tunes start to glow orange and got a little nervous. Yours had to be going nuclear.
I'm surprised to hear I should be getting my stove top to 700 since it's a double wall stove but I guess if it like to run wide open let it run.
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