Did the reset, was showing A in the window/641. Changed it to D /641/. Now what will this new setting do for me?
Englander 25-pdvc England stove works
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Before installing the new convection blower, make sure it has some lube on the motor shaft.....3 in 1 oil in the blue can is specifically for electric motors, but in a pinch the regular 3 in 1 will do. Put 3-4 drops down the oiling holes (some may have caps over the holes, but most don't).
On occasion, the motor gets assembled with the holes facing down after installation. If you can, disasemble it from the blower housing and rotate the motor so the holes are toward the top....makes things MUCH easier if you just want to give them a few drops now & again. Normal lube times are after 1 ton of pellets.
The "Lubit" oil that Don mentioned above is something I found years ago and shared with the forum membership....it IS very good for this application, but you'll probably have to order it over the internet.
If you're not sure where to put the oil, here's a couple of pics:
On occasion, the motor gets assembled with the holes facing down after installation. If you can, disasemble it from the blower housing and rotate the motor so the holes are toward the top....makes things MUCH easier if you just want to give them a few drops now & again. Normal lube times are after 1 ton of pellets.
The "Lubit" oil that Don mentioned above is something I found years ago and shared with the forum membership....it IS very good for this application, but you'll probably have to order it over the internet.
If you're not sure where to put the oil, here's a couple of pics:
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"D" is the correct setting for the air/fuel ratio for that stove, as per the factory.
CladMaster
Minister of Fire
All you need to do now is set the heat @ 2 and the blower @ 3 for a steady heat during the day (43 - 47 degs outside temps), this will keep the house temps at around 74 - 80 degs.
As it gets colder at night (or during the day) increase the heat number by 1 to get more hot air, leave the blower at 3 until you get to 6 on the heat setting, then set the blower to 4, keep the blower speed / setting 1 or 2 lower than the heat setting. If you go to heat setting 8, bring the blower speed up to 7 or the stove will over heat.
The aim is to make the stove produce heat while at the same time having a clean smoke and cresote free burn.
300F - 475F is the temp range that you need for the clean burn on the outside of the stove (left or right side of the stove).
As it gets colder at night (or during the day) increase the heat number by 1 to get more hot air, leave the blower at 3 until you get to 6 on the heat setting, then set the blower to 4, keep the blower speed / setting 1 or 2 lower than the heat setting. If you go to heat setting 8, bring the blower speed up to 7 or the stove will over heat.
The aim is to make the stove produce heat while at the same time having a clean smoke and cresote free burn.
300F - 475F is the temp range that you need for the clean burn on the outside of the stove (left or right side of the stove).
TLHinCanada
Feeling the Heat
Convection blower should always be set 1 higher than pellet feed to prevent overheating. I believe it is suggested in manual, and Mike has also mentioned it. If stove was in A mode overheating was quite possible.
Thanks everyone for your help, customer service never had me check mode, I glad you guys mentioned it, still don't understand why I was on mode A right out of the box. Hopefully this will stop me from going through blower motors/ or hurting my stove.
CladMaster
Minister of Fire
Not the case, why would the LFF be 6 and the LBA be 4 if this was true ?
Anyway, my questions to Tech Support on this issue gave me the info that I needed.
To get the stove to work at peek performance you need to get the fuel to air mixture right, if you have the Room Air set to high it does not blow warm air into the room. I tested this by having the stove set to 6 for heat and the blower at 8 and 9, then I dropped the Blower speed down to 5 and 4 to see the results. With the Blower speed set to 8 or 9 the temp that was being blown out of the front of the stove was much lower than the temps at 5 and 4. You have to let the stove run for 60 mins when you make changes to see the effects.
Also, when you raise or lower the room blower speed, the flame within the fire box also changes as they are tired to each other. If you look you will see it yourself.
The LFF and LBA settings have nothing to do with the heat range and convection blower setting relationship the convection blower is supposed to be equal to or higher than the heat range setting never less than.
LFF and LBA are the starting fuel feed and combustion air settings that form the basis for heat range 1 ( others including all heat ranges in the newer units) never confuse the combustion side (heat creation) with the need to remove the heat from the exchanger and dump it into the room (convection blower) blower ranges.
One must remove at least the amount of heat that is produced in order to not burn the ever loving crap out of the things in the stove shell (this is called over firing the stove). The first things that generally go to holy he double toothpick are convection blowers (lube first, then the blower stalls, then it can be a toss up of weather the high temperature system detects the issue and shuts the stove off or the controller is baked so it no longer can detect the over fire) and controllers when a stove is over fired. It can steadily go down hill from that point. If you further add to the situation by not cleaning your stove not only may the controller never see the problem (ash prevents the heat from getting to the thermocouple) but the metal in the stove can warp and crack through.
Dumping combustion byproducts into the house.
LFF and LBA are the starting fuel feed and combustion air settings that form the basis for heat range 1 ( others including all heat ranges in the newer units) never confuse the combustion side (heat creation) with the need to remove the heat from the exchanger and dump it into the room (convection blower) blower ranges.
One must remove at least the amount of heat that is produced in order to not burn the ever loving crap out of the things in the stove shell (this is called over firing the stove). The first things that generally go to holy he double toothpick are convection blowers (lube first, then the blower stalls, then it can be a toss up of weather the high temperature system detects the issue and shuts the stove off or the controller is baked so it no longer can detect the over fire) and controllers when a stove is over fired. It can steadily go down hill from that point. If you further add to the situation by not cleaning your stove not only may the controller never see the problem (ash prevents the heat from getting to the thermocouple) but the metal in the stove can warp and crack through.
Dumping combustion byproducts into the house.
Because the LFF and LBA are Very Minuscule adjustments and change on every stove.
The blower should at least be at the same heat setting (on all new controllers the blower can't go lower than heat).
And for the.record, the convection blower will not cause air to move through the unit faster?!? By raising the.heat level, the combustion blower steps up with every level. The convection blower only controls the speed of the motor for room qir. Heat level, controls both combustion blower speed and feed rates.
The LLF and LBA are only to be adjusted for certain installations, applications, or to get a certain pellet to burn better. They shouldn't be changed several times a day. If you need more heat, just bump up the heat level....
But ALWAYS make sure that the blower is at or above the heat setting. By not extracting the heat, you can.overheat the stove and its components.
CladMaster
Minister of Fire
Not from what I was told by Tech Support when I asked questions on this.
The blower speed also changes the air intake within the firebox on my stove. I asked Tech Support this question and they confirmed it.
Correct.
Yes and no. I was told that the blower speed can be set 1 or 2 lower than the heat setting if needed.
![[Hearth.com] Englander 25-pdvc England stove works](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/82/82199-33d4efde784ad1ce342fbbeed9193e4a.jpg?hash=00wdLPZTX5 "[Hearth.com] Englander 25-pdvc England stove works")
The room air blower does NOT do anything than control that blower speed. It has nothing to do with the fire and.or exhaust blower speed. (You must have misunderstood).
And on new controllers, the Blower WILL NOT go below the heat range selection. Period.
And the LBA and LFF are a very minor (read: Super Minor). Adjustment. Upping the LFF by 1 is nowhere near the same as upping the Heat range by 1.
I wish Mike Holton would see this thread. He would quickly dismiss all of the false thoughts you have.
Blower speed = Room air blower Only
Heat range = Feed rate adjustment and and rise in combustion blower speed (you have this mixed with convection blower)
And the bottom 3 shouldn't be touched unless the stove is burning incorrectly.
Hmmmm....well, I'm not going to say you're wrong, since you have the motor there in front of you, but from what I see on this forum, just about every (Fasco) convection blower motor on Englander stoves has those little U-shaped openings for oil.
If yours don't, then the manufacturer has changed things.....and NOT for the better.
CladMaster
Minister of Fire
I was told different on the phone when I spoke to Tech Support on the blower settings.
I watched the flame within the fire pot when the room air blower speed was increase and decreased, it changed the way the fire burned within the pot. I asked if this was ment to happen and was told that it was the case. The higher the number, the more intence the flame, the lower the number, the lower the flame was.
I guess we need Mike H to come on here to clear this all up, but I do know that when I adjust the blower speed, it also changes the way the fire burns in the stove.
If this is the case, then your stove has a problem. The room air blower is just that.
And the flame will always fluctuate. No matter the setting. High to low. Especially on the lower settings. Its much more noticeable.
Mike Holton has been paged to clear your memory of what either the tech told you or what was misunderstood. It may take a day or so (holiday/ busy season). But he shall come. The wise one will cometh.
TLHinCanada
Feeling the Heat
convection air is your room blower but I can see from the preceding posts that I can still lead the horse to water, but it will die of thirst.
I agree with clad master, when you adjust the numbers on the convection fan you do see a difference in flame behavior.
I witnessed that last night, I might have been seeing things, I ate lots of turkey and had a few glasses of dads special kool-aid so maybe the combo made me hallucinate,
I witnessed that last night, I might have been seeing things, I ate lots of turkey and had a few glasses of dads special kool-aid so maybe the combo made me hallucinate,
I would also like his input on the original post before it went in 5 different directions and 100 miles away. Lol
You are confusing the lower three settings that have absolutely nothing to do with the normal operation of the convection blower it is always equal to or greater than the heat range.
The heat range is controlled to some degree (more so on the low end than the high end) by the LFF and LBA these set the fuel to air balance allowing you to match the pellets, and combustion air to compensate for fuel differences and venting. LFF actually controls the top augers on to off time ratio and the LBA acts as a combustion blower trim. These parameters get varied by the controller up to the maximum as the heat rage changes. This has absolutely
nothing to do with the convection blower.
If you fail to operate the stove with the convection blower setting no lower than the heat range the stove can be overheated.
The only interaction that the room fan has with the combustion process inside the firebox is via the air wash, and any penetration of the firebox that allows room air to be in direct contact, these will usually result in a poor burn. Also other than the air wash and the wire penetration going to the igniter any penetration is a defect or via a bad gasket or improperly latched hooper or door, or failure to seal your OAK to the air intake.
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