That is a steal of a deal. Get them while they're hot.
Yes, & the Summer's Heat stoves generally have better (closer) clearances & only need spark/ember hearth protection which is a real plus -- even though they are made by Englander.
That is a steal of a deal. Get them while they're hot.
Thanks for the info and advice, its very informative and helps.Im not sure how cold it gets in your part of the world. But here in Minnesota, mother nature is in charge. I have a 13 in a (20x40) insulated pole building no foundation. Inside of the building is mainly open (20x32 or 640sq ft) where the wood stove is. Then a wall dividing the remaining 8x20' or 160sq ft. On cold nights I supplement the in-floor heat system with wood. Two reasons, first is my in floor heat boiler is off peak electric. Meaning the power company can and do shut me off daily at peak times. The second reason is if I ever loose power I can heat the building forever with wood. I cant say enough about the heating ability of the 13. At times when the outside temps are in the -20's F, this little stove has no trouble keeping the building 70 degrees. The firebox is smallish, but once you learn the stove, you come more proficient in operating it. For instance, it doesn't take that much wood to throw good heat. A lot of times one log giving secondary flames will last a long time with stove top temps in the 350-450 range. When that log dies down a bit and before the stove cools too much. Just throw on one more log, no need to fill it to the max, unless your preparing for a overnight burn. At one point I was looking for a blower fan to add. Just because I had a blower on a previous wood stove, no other reason. Instead I put a fan behind the 13 to circulate the heat. But soon found the fan cooled the stove too much. Then I learned that by blowing a fan from way across the room (30 feet away) directly at the 13, the heat circulated much better without cooling the wood stove at all. Another thing is leaving a couple of inches of ashes on the bottom the stove. This insulates the coals and you will find that by raking the ashes around a bit will produce enough coals to start a fire if it does die out. When I do start a fire, I use one of those fire-logs they sell just about everywhere. I buy the big/heavy one. Then simply cut a few small pieces off of it to start a fire, this works well. Otherwise I use diesel fuel if I don't have a log handy. I know the 13 would heat my house if I didn't have a basement. In fact, I'm keeping my eyes open for one and if I can convince the war dept (wife) to let me install a stove upstairs it will be a 13. When I build my home she didn't want the wood mess in our living area. So the compromise was a wood furnace in the basement. Yes, the furnace heats the house evenly, but it eats wood too. Where a small stove upstairs would be nice is in the spring/fall when a lot of heat is needed 24/7. Sorry for the long post, your heating space mimics mine. The 13 would do you well.
Thanks for the heads up, i actually found that myself as well when researching the madison.As a FWIW the Madison is on sale at Lowes for $600. We went back and picked up a refund on ours for the difference since it went on sale the day after we purchased it. I'm currently in the middle of my first full burn on it and loving it's performance. It's currently 1 degree here in Maine and this things drawing up the temps in our drafty 1400 foot 2 story.
Edit: they call it a Summers Heat 2,000 but it's the same stove.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Summers-Heat-2-000-sq-ft-Wood-Stove/999918844
Thanks for the info, learned that as well in my research.Yes, & the Summer's Heat stoves generally have better (closer) clearances & only need spark/ember hearth protection which is a real plus -- even though they are made by Englander.
Are they identical except for brand name? I was looking at the brand but was confused if there were some minor differences or identical except for their brand names.They are the same stove, just different branding. The Summer's Heat equivalent of the 30NC is the 50 SNC30.
Thinking the 2 cited in the OP are, basically, the same.There is a tiny difference in tacked on trim, but essentially the same stove.
Do tell. What reports?
I don't think so, the ash dump mechanism is down below. Twud be nice to see a Madison version insert though.Can that pedestal be removed and slide it into a fireplace?
Can that pedestal be removed and slide it into a fireplace?
Hi All!
I am looking for some advice on which size stove to go with. I have been looking at the Englander 13-NCH which is rated for 1800 sqft or the 30-NCH which is rated for 2400 sqft.
13-NCH
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-1-800-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-13-NCH/100157775
30-NCH
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-2-400-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-30-NCH/100291302
The stove will be in a room with approximately 700 sq ft and there is another room with an open doorway that the heat will travel into but not be used to really heat. That room is approximately 400 sqft. I may convert my garage into livable space which will add another possible 400-500 sqft but not anytime soon.
I am wondering how accurate the 1800 sqft specification is for the 13-NCH. If its true to 1800 sqft then I think I would be fine with that stove but not sure if it is thus I am turning to the knowledgable community here for some advice.
My current stove is a very old timberline stove that came with the house when I bought it 10 years ago. Same as the one from this old thread.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-wood-stove.101525/
Seems like it was from the 80's, its very big and old. I believe its pre-epa as people have called it on this forum. We have to run fires very low and slow to keep the house(really the room I stated above) from being 90+. If we were to run it full out at 600+ degrees, it would easily hit 90 in a short period and burn through wood like crazy. It seems as though it was made to heat the whole house, not just the immediate room it was in.
I would like to upgrade so that I can use less wood and have longer burns. Right now the stove pretty much has to be baby sat all the time. I would like to load it, get it going and hopefully leave it for 7+ hours. It seems like that is the norm for most stoves today that are either cat or not "pre-epa". The price difference between the two stoves is not a factor. I also have decided that I do not want a cat stove from what I have read on here.
Which size do you suggest? Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
Looks like it's time to update the signature.View attachment 196322I have the same stove ,here it is cruising at 550 with just a few pieces of 2x4 cutoffs in it .can be dialed back nicely and has a killer fireview! I have yet o put any serious wood in it but it seems to be easily controlled .
Your right BG , another family member and iv plumb forgot to add it. As soon as i setup a you tube acct il post a video of it burning.Looks like it's time to update the signature.
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