Don't simply look at pressure rating, it's important, but it's only part of it. The combination of pressure and flow rate is what tells the whole story. The higher the pressure and the more water it consumes the more cleaning ability you will have. I would also stay away from consumer level stuff, but that's just me. Erin bought a cheap $350 gas engine Crapsman, it's junk now as the crappy aluminum pump housing cracked, even though it was brought downstairs every single winter. You get what you pay for, remember that. It all depends on what your budget is.
Here's a good place to start reading:
https://www.pressurewashersdirect.com/stories/343-How-to-Pick-the-Perfect-Pressure-Washer.html
I would try to stick with either a CAT or Annovi Reverberi (AR) pump. Direct drive or belt drive. Belt drives are quieter and they turn the pump slower, so it's easier on the pump for longer pump life, but they are more pricey. You won't find belt driven pumps in big box stores, except potentially Northern Tool.
Honda GX motors are pretty much the way to go. GX are commercial duty while their GC motors are consumer/residential.
No matter what you get you need to know how to properly use and maintain it. NEVER, EVER start the engine without having the water hooked up and turned on. Doing so will burn out the pump seals in short order. Water is used as a lubricant of the seals and for the valves of the pump. Make sure all the air is bled out of the system before use. I normally connect all the hoses and leave the high pressure wand disconnected and then turn the water on and leave it run for a decent amount of time to push all the air out of the system before I even start it. Having air in the system while under pressure will cause cavitation in the pump, which is also not good for it.
It's also a good idea not to leave the power washer run for too long without pressing the trigger on the wand. Water is what cools the pump while it's being used. Most all pressure washer pumps have thermal protection, however seeing the unloader valve is closed, the water inside the pump is now being recirculated inside the pump with nowhere to go. This causes the water to heat up, which in turn heats the pump up and heat is bad for the seals (hence why belt drive pumps are better, as they turn slower and will produce less heat when recirculating the water). I will always shut mine down if I think I won't be using it for a minute or two. I try to keep my thermal bypass from even being activated.
In winter I would bring it inside to avoid pump damage from the water inside the pump freezing. If you don't bring it inside, you need to add pump antifreeze/saver
(
Amazon product ASIN B007TFF2PM ).
I actually add it to the pumps on both my pressure washers even though I bring them both downstairs for winter, as it helps keep the pump seals lubricated.