Electric Chain Saw Sharpener-inquiry on opinions

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
Jay, My saw chain has a .325 pitch and the cutter requires a 3/16" round file to sharpen. Are you certain about the 7/8" round file for your .375 pitch? That seems of kind of big to me.

Best Wishes,

John_M
 
Well, since nobody has spoke up for the little machine...I will. I hand file in the field, but do sharpen with the hobo freight machine when needed.

If you have a good feel for simple machinery, it is quite easy to setup so that a VERY minimal amount of material is removed. Basically I just "nick" the tooth with it. I have used it for 3 years now. It produces sharp chains every time. Every tooth is the same length and both sides are of the same angle.

Works as advertised. I have had pro shops sharpen my chains and cannot say that they return any sharper than if I use my cheapo machine.

There...I said it. And yes.....I am quite proficient at hand filing, so its not an issue of not knowing how.
 
John_M said:
Jay, My saw chain has a .325 pitch and the cutter requires a 3/16" round file to sharpen. Are you certain about the 7/8" round file for your .375 pitch? That seems of kind of big to me.

Best Wishes,

John_M

Nope, I just looked it up, math was wrong... 3/8th = .325 and it uses a 7/32 not a 7/8th (which would be quite big) file... Sorry!

Jay
 
I hand file in the woods if needed, for touch up, but when in the garage I use the little oregon grinder thingy.. works great. you do have to be carefull about overheating the cutting edge, but it just takes a touch to put a fresh edge on, and you do have to keep an eye on the grinder so it doesn't wear down, no big deal.
 
I have one of the HF grinders, and it does sort of work, but it isn't great. In retrospect I would have been happier if I'd purchased a better quality machine. Some of the Arboristsite guys say the machine that Northern sells is less than the Oregon but can be much improved by swapping out a few parts, and ends up about that quality.

I purchased my HF unit before I learned to hand file, and it did an OK job, but I can do better by hand, now the only time I use the machine is if I rock the chain and have to clean it up.

As to the question of filing and grinding on the same chain, what I've seen suggested is that when you grind a chain you end up with microscopic particles of grinding wheel imbedded in the metal. When you come along later with a file, the particles keep the file from contacting the chain well, and also dull the file.

Gooserider
 
Jay H said:
John_M said:
Jay, My saw chain has a .325 pitch and the cutter requires a 3/16" round file to sharpen. Are you certain about the 7/8" round file for your .375 pitch? That seems of kind of big to me.

Best Wishes,

John_M

Nope, I just looked it up, math was wrong... 3/8th = .325 and it uses a 7/32 not a 7/8th (which would be quite big) file... Sorry!

Jay

No, you were half right before - 3/8 = 0.375. Although sometimes it seems like the 359 is the last 0.375-pitch, 0.058 gauge saw out there; matching bars and chains are not plentiful in, say, Bailey's catalog.

I mostly hand sharpen, but I'm not that good at it apparently; after several sharpenings things tend to get uneven and the saw stops cutting straight. Also, I cut a lot of dirty stuff and hit rocks more often than I care to admit. So I bought the $30 HF grinder, and though it's just as cheap as advertized it has saved several chains multiple times each. I got my money's worth.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.