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I have a 3yr old eko 60 but just the other day went to fire up and my temp controller is jumping around. Did anyone have this problem? If the temp is at let's say 60, then it will go 65,68,60,61. Just random numbers.
Welcome to the Boiler Room, Barry. It doesn't sound good, but I believe there's a 5-year warranty on the boiler (there is now, anyway) that should cover the controller.
I have a 3yr old eko 60 but just the other day went to fire up and my temp controller is jumping around. Did anyone have this problem? If the temp is at let's say 60, then it will go 65,68,60,61. Just random numbers.
I'd take a minute to make sure that the screw terminals for the sensor connection are tight. You'll have to unbolt the beautiful superstructure. Unplug first ;-)
I'll second Nofossil's recommendation of checking the screw terminals. And, I'll add to take a quick look at the cable for the thermistor. Mine was just coiled up an laying on top of the boiler jacket. Make sure it is not melted, cut, or rubbed through anywhere. If it is, some electrical tape may get you through till you can get a new one.
The controller is held in place by spring tabs on either side. The hole in the sheet metal is oversized enough that I can push the controller all the way to one side, then lift the other side up out of the hole. Once one side is out, the other side usually comes out pretty easy. Don't force it - I may have just been lucky with a loose hole!
I've tried several times to get mine out that way, sled, and mine won't budge. So it's a matter of messing around with those four screws. Use a short Phillips head screwdriver to cut down on the aggravation.
I noticed a couple of frayed wires that were shorting out on mine when I first got it going. So that's definitely something to check. All good suggestions.
This would be one of the areas where I felt the 'fit and finish' of the EKO wasn't as good as it could be. Mostly I don't see functional compromises, but the whole controller housing looks like an afterthought.
Remove the thermistor leads and attach an ohmmeter to see if it is open, or read the resistance, also. There should be a chart to show the temperature to resistance.
Thanks for all the input. I checked the terminals and also the wire itself. Everything ok. I emailed Zenon so will see what he has to say. This is the only problem I seem to have had which is good because we live in an old 3,000 sq ft farmhouse. In the winters past if I turned the thermostat above 60 in 3-4 wks went 275 gallons of oil. Since this stove my family has them at 68-70. The 1,000 gallon storage tank really helps also.
It's amazing how much heat you can get from a gasifier like the EKO 60 when you have dry wood and a fairly decent piping strategy. A warm house is worth a lot, but with a gasifier, it doesn't cost a lot.
I take it you are able to keep the boiler working for now? Keep us posted on how this gets resolved.
It sounds like I'm in the minority here - I keep my thermostats at 68. Except for the bedroom which is 62. I work from home most of the time, and I'm comfortable at these temps in a T-shirt. Although, the infloor heating makes it feel much, much nicer than 68 degrees with forced air.
Before I had my EKO 40 we used to keep the house at 58 at night and 65 during the day. Gas bill was $200.00 and the rest of my appliances are electric. Now keep it at 70 at night and 72 during the day, and gas bills are $25.00 a month BIG difference.
Next year will electic water heater run through boiler and will hopefully drop electric bill also .
Keith