Eko Orlan Model 25 Nozzle Plate

[JTWALL]

Howdy @Medman. Are you satisfied with your stainless steel nozzle plate? Do you think the slot dimensions are optimum or could be larger? While at the scrap yard the other day I picked up a piece of 1/2" x 4-7/8" x 56" ss. Kinda heavy but for $1.10 per pound, I like it ok. My current nozzle has 2 and 1/3 seasons (maybe 10 cords) through it and shows some wear, not enough to replace though. How did your replacement nozzle hold up with the plate for cover, any wear at all?

Just my humble opinion, but you can use much thinner stainless steel. I made one similar and I used 0.062" thick material. I added 5 or 6 vertical vanes to keep larger material from falling through. Occasionally, I will have to replace a vane, but other than that it has held up well. Regards.

 

[Medman]

Boiled Over, my nozzle plate looks just like brand new. I ran 9 - 10 full cords of maple and oak through the boiler last winter and had excellent performance. The best part was that the smaller opening meant that I reduced ash cleanout in the bottom chamber by about half.

 

[easternbob]

Medman, No issues with warping? Either side to side or over the length?
I've been using firebricks for a replacement nozzle overlay but your plate looks nicer.

 

[Medman]

There has been no warping so far. It still sits flat on the top of the replacement refractory. I was concerned that the opening cut in the plate would start to erode and widen but it hasn't yet.

 

[rkusek]

Is there any wear on the bottom of slot for anyone using these plates. I need to replace mine after 7 years and will definitely add a plate this time to extend the life. Wouldn't it have been a better design if the eko had a 2 piece nozzle? Imagine a wear piece about 8" long and 3" wide shaped like a T that just dropped into the lower part? Maybe change every couple years when slot got worn a little?

 

[JTWALL]

Is there any wear on the bottom of slot for anyone using these plates. I need to replace mine after 7 years and will definitely add a plate this time to extend the life. Wouldn't it have been a better design if the eko had a 2 piece nozzle? Imagine a wear piece about 8" long and 3" wide shaped like a T that just dropped into the lower part? Maybe change every couple years when slot got worn a little?

If you make a stainless nozzle plate, you will never have to worry about changing the ceramic nozzle again. Going on 3rd winter on replacement nozzle... still looks like new. Now, why doesn't Eko do that?
After 7 years, I decided to replace the bearings in the combustion blower...it was not difficult. $6.00 for bearings versus $125 for a new blower. Added an electrical quick disconnect so I can easily remove blower motor and support plate when cleaning boiler.
Regards...

 

[JTWALL]

A few pics of another nozzle plate I made today...14 gauge stainless steel, cut, formed and welded. Note the vertical vanes I added to strengthen the unit and keep larger unburned material from falling through into the lower chamber. Basically, it looks like an old-fashion floor register, eh? Now, I have two of them; so if one needs repair I can swap it out and keep the boiler operating. Made slightly under-size since it does expand quite a bit when heated. Ceramic nozzle shown has gone through two full winters and still looks like new since it is protected by the nozzle plate. Regards.

 

[muncybob]

I'm going to have a plate made, why go with SS? It looks like most of my wood this year will be oak(I'm not complaining!) so should the plate be thick as the original in this thread was or can a thinner one be just as good?

 

[JTWALL]

I have been told that oak is more corrosive and will deteriorate whatever you make the nozzle plate out of quicker. Plain carbon steel simply can't take the heat generated by the boiler. I don't think a plain carbon steel plate would last a week. As for the thickness, I have both. I like the thinner one as shown above. I have two now, so if one needs repair I simply install the spare. Good luck!

 

[barnartist]

JTWALL your happy with the results? Why does this work better than the one you made with holes in it? How about you sell me the 2nd one you made??

 

[JTWALL]

JTWALL your happy with the results? Why does this work better than the one you made with holes in it? How about you sell me the 2nd one you made??

1. Since it extends downward, it provides better protection for the nozzle.
2. It allows the boiler to breath easier.
3. Suggest using Titanium plate versus stainless steel...I made one similar to one above only used Titanium...is holding up much better. Got the material of ebay ((broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/121792813069?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)) The only downside is that you will need a TIG welder or know someone that has one.
4. Sorry...I keep the older ones for emergency use.

Good luck!

 

[maple1]

1. Since it extends downward, it provides better protection for the nozzle.
2. It allows the boiler to breath easier.
3. Suggest using Titanium plate versus stainless steel...I made one similar to one above only used Titanium...is holding up much better. Got the material of ebay ((broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/121792813069?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)) The only downside is that you will need a TIG welder or know someone that has one.
4. Sorry...I keep the older ones for emergency use.

Good luck!

Interesting.

What is that stuff like to cut & drill? Wondering if I could get a piece & do the cutting & drilling to get pieces ready to put together, then take it to my welding buddy to weld together.

 

[JTWALL]

Interesting.

What is that stuff like to cut & drill? Wondering if I could get a piece & do the cutting & drilling to get pieces ready to put together, then take it to my welding buddy to weld together.

Easy to work with; just like regular carbon steel...just need TIG to weld.

 

[JTWALL]

Easy to work with; just like regular carbon steel...just need TIG to weld.

PS...if you decide to make one of these, leave a 1/16-inch to 3-32-inch total gap between the nozzle plate and the ceramic nozzle. Why? The Titanium expands as it is heated and I guarantee the Titanium will win over the ceramic nozzle!

 

[maple1]

Hmm - expansion?

So - if I were to take a strip of it, and stick the ends of the strip together to make a circle that would fit inside a circular nozzle, then weld that to the flat piece in your picture (after first cutting some holes in the flat piece) - would the expansion of the circle piece pop the welds?

 

[JTWALL]

Hmm - expansion?

So - if I were to take a strip of it, and stick the ends of the strip together to make a circle that would fit inside a circular nozzle, then weld that to the flat piece in your picture (after first cutting some holes in the flat piece) - would the expansion of the circle piece pop the welds?

I have no idea. Too many variables. Would depend on the fit, temps, location of weld...phew!
I do know I made one out of stainless that was too tight front to back. As it expanded, it had no where to go, so it buckled upward in the center; also chipped the upper edge of the ceramic nozzle...its gotta go somewhere! Just trying to save you some grief. Regards.

 

[mwk1000]

I have no idea. Too many variables. Would depend on the fit, temps, location of weld...phew!
I do know I made one out of stainless that was too tight front to back. As it expanded, it had no where to go, so it buckled upward in the center; also chipped the upper edge of the ceramic nozzle...its gotta go somewhere! Just trying to save you some grief. Regards.

PS...if you decide to make one of these, leave a 1/16-inch to 3-32-inch total gap between the nozzle plate and the ceramic nozzle. Why? The Titanium expands as it is heated and I guarantee the Titanium will win over the ceramic nozzle!

Back after a few years of steady burning 8 full cords a season. I had the great idea to make a stainless steel plate to protect my upcoming repair job. Though I would check the forum - a VERY good idea i see. This is perfect confirmation that it WILL save my ceramic, complete with an evolved design. You guys are great!

My EKO 60 nozzels - I have never been very happy with the design - back slot wider than the front to many coals drop etc etc., Now it is very worn and time to fix it. As luck would have it my son and I have been playing with refractory mixes and I have SS fibers- adds from an outdoor Pizza Oven DIY as well as the ingredients for refractory. From those who repaired are they still holding up ? Looking at the replacement part that does not fit I hate to give a company money for something that basically does not work seems easier to cast it in place - a complete new one guaranteed to line up the holes sized any width you want ??

Then I can add the plate on top and forget about it for 10 years .... As you have done maybe keep a spare plate on hand , loved the holes but the slots seem even better. I burn ALL oak full blast to a 1500 gal storage tank. We let the boiler cool and light again - this has NOT been kind to my EKO refractory - With that said any updated recommendations on the guage SS ?

I was thinking on making a good grade refractory probably better than what's in there now - ( http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?5-DIY-Refractory-Compositions/page1 ) These folks have been playing with a lot of homegrown mixes . Line the sides with wax paper/plain paper to ensure expansion room foam the holes and slot - pour and cure. Here is a useful example subtracting the foam beads used for insulating:

--Or just buy something like -- Mizzou Plus Refractory Mix 55# Bag 3000 degree castable from hightempinc on ebay seems to be a good fit and a good deal if you could find it locally ( 60$ shipping - ouch )!

"A great way to turn your favorite DIY refractory into castable is to add a calcium aluminate cement to it like Secar 71. I get it from hightempinc on ebay. They've got a 10lb bag for about $40 shipped. I mix the Secar 71 at about 1 part in 10 parts per the rest of the mix and it takes a couple of days to harden. My composition consists of even volumes of kaolin ( clay ) and 3 grades of white aluminum oxide I got from a sand blasting place. I then add in stainless steel refractory needles and bean bag foam beads. Without the cement, this mix doesn't work because if you add enough water for it to be fluid enough to fill all the voids, it will crack while drying. Not to mention drying takes more than a week on a large furnace. The calcium aluminate cement really makes lining a furnace easier because you don't have to worry about having too much water in the clay and it cracking.

 

[JTWALL]

Back after a few years of steady burning 8 full cords a season. I had the great idea to make a stainless steel plate to protect my upcoming repair job. Though I would check the forum - a VERY good idea i see. This is perfect confirmation that it WILL save my ceramic, complete with an evolved design. You guys are great!

My EKO 60 nozzels - I have never been very happy with the design - back slot wider than the front to many coals drop etc etc., Now it is very worn and time to fix it. As luck would have it my son and I have been playing with refractory mixes and I have SS fibers- adds from an outdoor Pizza Oven DIY as well as the ingredients for refractory. From those who repaired are they still holding up ? Looking at the replacement part that does not fit I hate to give a company money for something that basically does not work seems easier to cast it in place - a complete new one guaranteed to line up the holes sized any width you want ??

Then I can add the plate on top and forget about it for 10 years .... As you have done maybe keep a spare plate on hand , loved the holes but the slots seem even better. I burn ALL oak full blast to a 1500 gal storage tank. We let the boiler cool and light again - this has NOT been kind to my EKO refractory - With that said any updated recommendations on the guage SS ?

I was thinking on making a good grade refractory probably better than what's in there now - ( http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?5-DIY-Refractory-Compositions/page1 ) These folks have been playing with a lot of homegrown mixes . Line the sides with wax paper/plain paper to ensure expansion room foam the holes and slot - pour and cure. Here is a useful example subtracting the foam beads used for insulating:

--Or just buy something like -- Mizzou Plus Refractory Mix 55# Bag 3000 degree castable from hightempinc on ebay seems to be a good fit and a good deal if you could find it locally ( 60$ shipping - ouch )!

Honestly, I think you should repair what you have installed now; make the nozzle plate out of the titanium I suggested and save yourself the hassle of replacing the nozzle. I see others have made successful repairs. Make a solid foam core, pour the refractory in around the worn nozzle. When cured, melt foam with a torch...install nozzle plate...your done; probably for years!

I have read that burning Oak is very tough on ceramics. Good luck. JT

 

[mwk1000]

Honestly, I think you should repair what you have installed now; make the nozzle plate out of the titanium I suggested and save yourself the hassle of replacing the nozzle. I see others have made successful repairs. Make a solid foam core, pour the refractory in around the worn nozzle. When cured, melt foam with a torch...install nozzle plate...your done; probably for years!

I have read that burning Oak is very tough on ceramics. Good luck. JT

Yes , I just have no TIG so the SS would actually be easier to keep in service. But yes I will probably try the repair route -- still odd that my back nozzle came wider than my front and I don't see that in the replacements so i was concerned about the longevity of the bond on a thin layer needed to close the width up some. Still you are right all-in-all easier to do.

In my case I think the repeated cool-hot-cool is the real wear and tear, my blocks underneath are kind of a joke they still LOOK like blocks but each one is in at least 3 pieces Very carefully I clean out the ash!

 

[infinitymike]

I have read that burning Oak is very tough on ceramics. Good luck. JT

Absolutely, I'm in my 5th winter for heat and finished my 3rd summer for DHW.
Probably, 75% of what I burn is red oak.
I replaced the center nozzle bricks 2 years ago and they will need replacing again.
I also now need to replace the side bricks of the unit, which is a bigger task.


I took all the measurements of the replacement nozzle bricks in hope of casting my own.

After I receive the side bricks, I will template them as well to be able to cast them.

Got to do some research on castable cement.
I really don't this stuff falling apart after I install it.

 

[mwk1000]

Absolutely, I'm in my 5th winter for heat and finished my 3rd summer for DHW.
Probably, 75% of what I burn is red oak.
I replaced the center nozzle bricks 2 years ago and they will need replacing again.
I also now need to replace the side bricks of the unit, which is a bigger task.


I took all the measurements of the replacement nozzle bricks in hope of casting my own.

After I receive the side bricks, I will template them as well to be able to cast them.

Got to do some research on castable cement.
I really don't this stuff falling apart after I install it.

The site above has some good grade pre-made refractory, I have been reading up on it since I started the brick oven project.
ie. Mizzou plus castable or Sparcast LC 32-AL, for example, is a high-alumina castable with all ingredients precisely sized to create a low-porosity, high-strength (modulus of rupture around 3,000psi at 1500F) casting

My notes are:
Watch for insulating or non-insulating - this application am am figuring for a heat conductive non-insulating type. Insulating flavors all include some way to air en-train the mix saw dust,perlite,diatomacios earth -- whatever.

Mix it yourself:

3 parts - aggregate The Bulk aggregate is Silicon Dioxide ( white sand ) = 3,115 F melting or Aluminum Oxide = 3704 F melting the higher grade refractories use White Fused Aluminum Oxide Sand Blasting Media. ( But I am not sure it is really needed here since we are not over 3000 F and it is 40-75$ a 50# bag + shipping)

1 part cement - Calcium Aluminate Cement CAC search for Secar 71 Calcium Aluminate Cement Fast acting replacement for portland will not breakdown at high temps like Portland cement. Reduces water content.

1 part lime - Hydrated lime low cost adds strength after exposure to high temperature helps to change structural makeup and blend with clay ( any box store )

1 part fireclay - Puts the ceramic in your refractory reacts at high temperatures to create the true refractory ( Cedar Heights Clay found at a brick yard 25# yelow bag )

430 Stainless Steel refractory reinforcing needles stainless steel fibers when mixed at 3 to 5% addition to your castable give greatly improved structural strength. 10# is enough to reinforce 200-300 lbs of any refractory material

I believe the regular sand version of this would be as good or better than the replacement part, certainly better that the original.

Links:
http://stores.ebay.com/Abrasive-Arm...832902010&_sid=25807890&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
http://stores.ebay.com/hightemprefractorystore/ ( Premade mizzou and CAC )
http://www.ablerefractory.com/refractoryproducts.htm


Educational:
BackyardMetalcasting.com
https://www.fornobravo.com/article-series/pompeii-oven/high-heat-mortar-primer/
http://www.artistpotters.com/anagama/castable.htm

Myself I am going to buy the Mizzou Plus if I can find it locally and add steel needles, if not I'll make the Sand home made version since I only need a small amount of Secar 71 to do it.