EKO 60 standard secondary inlet pics do you see a problem here FIX PICS

[sdrobertson]

your right it would not matter then.

I did not get that gasket with mine. Mine has already become brittle. It looks more like what you might see on a car door, except thinner than that. Oh well.

If I remember right your stove is the same as mine - I ended up putting metal duct tape around where the gasket goes as I didn't have nearly the amount of screws in the front as the new stoves have. It really sealed it up well and it stopped the back puffing. I was losing allot of air around the gasket. This will be a pain to change the primary air settings but I figured I could just peal away the tape when I have to remove the cover. Easier than trying to re tap the plates for screws and trying to get a new gasket on it.

 

[barnartist]

I thought I read where you did that Srobert. I have not had much visible there this year, so I have not made it a top priority yet. I do have some leaking around the upper door that needs fixed. The lip that the handle catches on to tighten the door shut seems to be a bit small. It does not grab enough of the handle and I can't really get a good seal after loading. I tried re-adjusting the whole door, but the gasket is so broke in where it is, it makes it worse.

I had very noisy, pulsating fans recently, so I finally took some time to tear them down and clean the blades up. They were off balance from buildup as I suspected, probably from lots of Idle time over the years. A thin screwdriver worked well to clean them, and now all is well and quiet again. I may have mentioned this before, but for the first time since I bought the Eko, I have returned the fan housing (protects the fans) to its rightful mount. I don't have to constantly adjust the openings anymore. Life is good.

 

[Dave T]

I put the gasket on the EKO like I saw on Eric's, but it had 4 screws on top and bottom and 1 on each side in the middle so I drilled out the panel and used self tapping screws and fastened 2 more on each side so now I have 3 on sides and same on top and bottom..I went right through the gasket material and the panel holds much tighter now..Now I am going to let the fire go out so I can rip the blower panel off and do some checks and adjustments..

 

[Eric Johnson]

Mine has 12 sheet metal screws holding that plate (which seems pretty flimsy to me, but it works) on. It's nice to have a drill with a phillips bit or an electric screwdriver.

 

[leaddog]

Secondary flaps are at 6 turns out after bottoming them out on the boiler inlets and the primary air is set preaty low about 1" from being totally closed..The fan shrouds are about 1 1/4" open I just got done reading IN HOT WATER's post on make up air so I am going to confirm this is not the problem..The boiler was hot when I tried to work the gasification, it worked best just after I loaded it and brought the chimney temps up, so far chimney temps are very low like 150 or 200 that seems low to me..

I think the manual says 10mm open on the primary which is less than 1/2in. I think the reasoning is to have less air in the primary and more pressure for air on the secondary. I would download the latest manual and set it up by that and go from there. I set up my sons 60 and my 80 with it and they do run better at those settings.
If the secondary holes aren't lined up with the refactory right (3 0-clock and 9 o-clock ) you won't get the air into the secondary and get good gasification. The fix would be to turn the tubes to line up and make sure they lined up lenght wise also. If they weren't I would think that would be a warrenty issue as they could only come that way from the factory. I don't think this is the case but because of the history of not working proper it is something to check. From what I've seen the quality of the eko's has been good but there can be a mixup once in a while. It looks like they have been making improvements as they learn also.
leaddog

 

[Dave T]

Leaddog I checked the secondary inlets to the refractory they are both riding at 3 and 9 oclock..I'll download the new manual and see what I can make of it..I did make a lot of progress last night with adjustments, and another big thing was make up air I had to open the basement door to get much better gasification and stop negitive draft on the chimney after a fan cycle. What size are the EKO blowers and what size ductwork would I have to use to supply EKO 60 with air..(pics anyone)..Dave