Effecta lambda 35

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Squirrel cage fan is going to run at a higher RPM when it's out of the housing because the housing directs the air to the vanes and to the outlet. Just running it out in the room like that doesn't apply any air load to the vanes. If you think the blower is running faster when it's in the housing you should check for obstructions at the air supply inlet. Analogous to blocking inlet air on your shop vac with the palm of your hand causes the blower to speed up by eliminating the air load on the vanes.
 
TCaldwell said:
Or if there’s a t-y cleanout plugged or restricted?
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Ok, I took the cap out of the tee while a fire is going. No improvement. Image attached of a shot from bottom up through to the cap.
 
Image
 

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Fred61 said:
Squirrel cage fan is going to run at a higher RPM when it's out of the housing because the housing directs the air to the vanes and to the outlet. Just running it out in the room like that doesn't apply any air load to the vanes. If you think the blower is running faster when it's in the housing you should check for obstructions at the air supply inlet. Analogous to blocking inlet air on your shop vac with the palm of your hand causes the blower to speed up by eliminating the air load on the vanes.
Click to expand...
Fred, did you listen to the sound of the fan installed in the boiler? I agree that it is starving for air. When I start the boilet empty the fan noise is quieter with the firebox door open and then gets louder when the door is closed. I observed this this morning while cleaning it again. I even ran it without the turbulators in to see if I was getting restriction in the tubes. No difference.

At this point I have tried everything I know to do.

Erin
 
I do appreciate everybody's help so far though. Thank you.
 
Do you have access to bio bricks or a similar product? I saw your moisture content photos and saw that it looks good, but looks can be deceiving. Fuel is the only thing you haven't checked, yet.
 
SpaceBus said:
Do you have access to bio bricks or a similar product? I saw your moisture content photos and saw that it looks good, but looks can be deceiving. Fuel is the only thing you haven't checked, yet.
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I will look them up. I have never heard of them.
 
I tend to agree based on the fan noise only when the door is closed, that it’s some sort of restriction, you’ve checked the house flue, you’ve said the primary air baffle looks good but is there a center bolt that’s loose or bound or some sort of linkage that supposed to actuate the primary air baffle that could have broken or dislodged? You might need a parts pic from the manual to see what is there vs what is supposed to be there.
 
chewy said:
Fred, did you listen to the sound of the fan installed in the boiler? I agree that it is starving for air. When I start the boilet empty the fan noise is quieter with the firebox door open and then gets louder when the door is closed. I observed this this morning while cleaning it again. I even ran it without the turbulators in to see if I was getting restriction in the tubes. No difference.

At this point I have tried everything I know to do.

Erin
Click to expand...
I am assuming that you have checked this but have you checked the openings that allows air into the boiler (where the damper are)? You access them from inside the boiler, on the wall below the opening for the door. Along the same lines to you clean out the bottom of the fiebox (so that the ask at the bottom does not block these openings)?
 
If the thermocouple in the boiler flue is above 100c/ 212f the electronics should work allowing you to leave the existing o2 sensor in the flue, plug the old one into the harness hold it with a pair of Chanel locks and put the lot propane torch to it for 10 sec. it should drive the co2 to its high limit on the display and you should be able with the door open or front cover off to watch if you get primary baffle to close or do anything.
 
Ok
TCaldwell said:
I tend to agree based on the fan noise only when the door is closed, that it’s some sort of restriction, you’ve checked the house flue, you’ve said the primary air baffle looks good but is there a center bolt that’s loose or bound or some sort of linkage that supposed to actuate the primary air baffle that could have broken or dislodged? You might need a parts pic from the manual to see what is there vs what is supposed to be there.[/QUOTE

Tc, this is a pic and video of the damper doors. They are running about 70%p 30%s right now. I have had a continuous fire since 11ish am this morning.

The dampers are adjusting as they should.
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TCaldwell said:
I tend to agree based on the fan noise only when the door is closed, that it’s some sort of restriction, you’ve checked the house flue, you’ve said the primary air baffle looks good but is there a center bolt that’s loose or bound or some sort of linkage that supposed to actuate the primary air baffle that could have broken or dislodged? You might need a parts pic from the manual to see what is there vs what is supposed to be there.
Click to expand...


Tc, i think the dampers are working. They are adjusting.
 

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JohnDolz said:
I am assuming that you have checked this but have you checked the openings that allows air into the boiler (where the damper are)? You access them from inside the boiler, on the wall below the opening for the door. Along the same lines to you clean out the bottom of the fiebox (so that the ask at the bottom does not block these openings)?
Click to expand...

I haven't removed the damper motors from the mounts, but looking down in there when the doors are open they look clean. I checked the 2 Inlet holes in the firebox this morning they were clear. I also took a coat hanger and brush and made sure every hole in the secondary inlet was open.
 
John, is there a way to manually calibrate the stove? Or at least just let it stay at 70/30?
 
I have another question. Wouldn't wetter the wood produce higher amounts of co2?
 
chewy said:
John, is there a way to manually calibrate the stove? Or at least just let it stay at 70/30?
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There is the test function mode where you can manually calibrate but I don't know if they stay there or if the computer then resets them.
 
chewy said:
I have another question. Wouldn't wetter the wood produce higher amounts of co2?
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I can only tell you that what you are describing sounds like my 1st year with the 35kw. I thought my wood was dry (moisture meter even agreed with me) but compared to the following year (when I KNEW I had dry wood)it became obvious what my problem was. Sorry but that is all I got....good luck.
 
TCaldwell said:
Anything yet?
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Tc, nothing yet. I'm getting ready to do a load of known dry wood of scraps from my woodshop blended with some finely split wood from bags that
I have split in my shop.

Tarm responded to me this morning telling me hannes from effecta will be in contact with me.
I sent the same video to tarm of the fan running. He told them that something is definitely not right with it by the sound of it.

I will keep you posted.

Thanks again
 
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