Well, I must be jealous, cause I am putting a free stander in the old house we just bought, for a summer home, and will be needing some heat to work on it this winter. Not to steal teh thread, but am leaning toward the Alerlea t5, as my PE experience has been great so far. Saw a Hearthstone Herttage up colose though, and am tempted tp pay a few hundred more for that awesoem looking stove.
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Todd said:
Actually I have enjoyed not having that probe in the pipe on the thirty since the first season with it. When I changed out the liner and elbow arrangement I didn't want to poke another hole in anything. I just watch the top plate temp and if the liner is in a puddle on top of the stove the next morning I will just order another one.
Of course I don't turn the blower on until the stove has leveled out. Can't believe nine miles of threads about the difference in stove top versus flue temps only to find out the blower was running all the time cooling the top of the stove. :lol:
I don't think I'd ever leave the stove if I watched the stack temperature! I never ran an old stove so my learning curve was far easier. I read a bunch of posts here and my stove ran pretty much spot on.
Are you loading the stove n/s or e/w? I had one e/w fire when I got the stove and decided I would never do that again.
I've been starting almost every fire from scratch right now and I've got a pretty good system down this season. Two n/s splits with a couple inches between them, three or four sheets of newspaper crumbled up in the gap, fill the gap with kindling and then place a third split on top of the kindling. I usually start dialing back the air when the stove top hits 400 or so, if I let it get much higher the fire will get a little more exciting than I need or want for this time of year. I'm sure my stack temps get cooking pretty good during this period.
Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to take a peek at that baffle though.
Are you loading the stove n/s or e/w? I had one e/w fire when I got the stove and decided I would never do that again.
I've been starting almost every fire from scratch right now and I've got a pretty good system down this season. Two n/s splits with a couple inches between them, three or four sheets of newspaper crumbled up in the gap, fill the gap with kindling and then place a third split on top of the kindling. I usually start dialing back the air when the stove top hits 400 or so, if I let it get much higher the fire will get a little more exciting than I need or want for this time of year. I'm sure my stack temps get cooking pretty good during this period.
Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to take a peek at that baffle though.
Come on BrotherBart, All the PE - EBT threads are at least 3 pages long, and appropriately,,,, 'cuze the EBT makes the load (of wood :roll: ) last longer as well.
madison said:
Actually I think it does make the load last longer. If you burn right in the stove. The long and short of the EBT debates were that the thing allowed PE to make a stove without the unrestricted air inlets others have to have to keep you from clamping down primary air. EBT only seems to kick in and let in air at high stove temps during the testing when primary is closed. If you burn like you have a couple of brain cells and just want heat it never kicks in and you have better primary air control than any other EPA stove on the market.
Well, except mine where I shut off those built in air leaks. I can make my own primary air input decisions, than you very much, and don't feel I need to be able to close it all the way down.
I would really, really, like to burn in a Summit for a week. I think they got it right but I also think that the "I wanna see jet secondary flames" mantra that you only see on hearth.com, not in any stove manual in the world, causes the problem. Light a nice fire in your stove. Sit back. Rest. Enjoy it. Don't make a blast furnace out of the thing.
I like instrumentation, but normally I fly our stove by visual flight rules. The stove burns well over a wide temperature range. At this time of year, it is loafing, so it basically comes up to temp and then cools down. In winter it will burn pretty steadily in the 500-600 range. If it gets very cold, I may push it a bit and will be happy with a push up to 700 for an hour or two.
Sparky, take the thermometers off the stove for the next month or two. Run it like you are trying to heat the house and not tune an engine. If you want heat, then feed the stove some fuel and air and let it do it's thing. It is not fragile nor is properly installed flue system. In a couple months when you are comfortable with getting good heat. Put the thermometers back on and observe. This talk of people pooping in their pants when the stove hits 650 or 700 is just silly. If you are in a cold climate and need that amount of btus to be warm, then let the stove do its thing.
Sparky, take the thermometers off the stove for the next month or two. Run it like you are trying to heat the house and not tune an engine. If you want heat, then feed the stove some fuel and air and let it do it's thing. It is not fragile nor is properly installed flue system. In a couple months when you are comfortable with getting good heat. Put the thermometers back on and observe. This talk of people pooping in their pants when the stove hits 650 or 700 is just silly. If you are in a cold climate and need that amount of btus to be warm, then let the stove do its thing.
Thanks guys, will run the stove a little different to see how it works but a couple of things.
The wood is dry as can be!
I wanted a new epa stove to cut back on wood useage, the old stove was great for 30 years and plan on using it in shop (unless I have to put it back in the house).
I do not expect the stove to run like the old one.
So the flue temps are double and like I said before there is a limit to how high they shoud be, much over 1000 to 1200 degrees is pushing it.
Did not thnk about starting it with out the fan to get temps up quicker (no one suggested that)
I do not need a fire now but am going to start one any way.
I hope this thread was as much help to others as it was to me.
The wood is dry as can be!
I wanted a new epa stove to cut back on wood useage, the old stove was great for 30 years and plan on using it in shop (unless I have to put it back in the house).
I do not expect the stove to run like the old one.
So the flue temps are double and like I said before there is a limit to how high they shoud be, much over 1000 to 1200 degrees is pushing it.
Did not thnk about starting it with out the fan to get temps up quicker (no one suggested that)
I do not need a fire now but am going to start one any way.
I hope this thread was as much help to others as it was to me.
Spark, I am no technician but I Think with epa stoves flue temps aren't as much a big deal because the wood needs to be dry, most stoves tell you in the manual a mc range .. if you meet those requirements you are much less likely to have a chimney fire, due to a cleaner burner stove . With a dragon , most people thought it was better to have wet wood to prolong burn time, which if your flue got hot a fire would just be a question of when.
That does make sense but their has to be a limit of some sort, I did notice one thing this morning if the fire comes up slow the stove top stays with the flue temp but if the fire takes off and burns really well the flue climbs way quicker than the stove top.iceman said:
oldspark said:
Spark, just to add a thought for you to consider: An analogy.... It is a really cold morning, you get in your car, you start to drive down the road, and as the engine heats up, and you start to feel warm air from you car's heater, do you leave the blower off in your car and wait till the engine gets to its maximum temperature to turn on the car's heater fan? The more airflow over a heat exchanger, the more btu's that are released from the heat exchanger.
If you want to warm up the house, Forget what the stove and flue thermometer says, get the fire going, put the stove fan on auto, when the stove gets warm, it comes on... Engineers and such with much more knowledge have thought this through, the fan comes on when the stove is warm enough to get a benefit from the blower, the blower goes off when it cools.
When the stove is hot, start throttling back on the air.
That is what I normaly do but it seemed to cloud the issue, I have way more flames under the baffle in the back than before, some one said not to worry about it but should I order a couple of gaskets and pull that out to look at it?madison said:
If the flames out the back are really bugging you, sure, you can make your own gasket as well, the gasket can be made with 3/8" or smaller rope gasket. It will last much longer than the OEM gasket. Search here to see the many ways to create your own.
Here is one method, the original: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/26827/
Here is one method, the original: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/26827/
They don't bug me but I never noticed them before, if it is not an issue I'm not messing with it until cleaning time.
I've tried every gasket and combo available and made, it flames from the back regardless. Not sure I mind that either, Helps burn the gases back there and seems to burn evenly.
I THINK the baffle on mine actually has a row of holes on the underside of the back edge, they are mostly hidden by a metal lip.
That would explain the flames I sometimes see.
That would explain the flames I sometimes see.
Jimbob said:
Correct Jimbob.
I found those holes myself and noted that in one of the other posts. It is set up for secondary burn in the back as well.
And here I thought I read all the posts on the Summit! :lol:
Good to know I wasn't imagining those holes.
Good to know I wasn't imagining those holes.
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