Dvl double wall stove pipe?

[RustyShackleford]

On a similar note .... my chimney pipe collects a lot of soot, and I was thinking maybe I need double-wall. But I thought I might just try one piece, a 24" length of DVL coming up from the stove, and see how that works (so as not to have to bother with elbows and the interface to the chimney (that's troubling you). But the DVL instructions say not to mix single- and double-wall. But I can't see why it'd be a problem; but I reluctant to violate instructions on something so safety-related.

 

[begreen]

Needs a new thread. They should not be mixed however, the issue may lie elsewhere and the single-wall may just be exacerbating the situation. Assuming the firewood is fully seasoned, that brings up the flue system as a whole. Can you describe it in detail or pictures from stove to chimney cap?

 

[RustyShackleford]

Good idea (on the new thread).

My firewood is well-seasoned, 1.5 years minimum, under shelter. I can start a fire with one stick of kindling and 1/4 of a SuperCedar.

I've been burning my BK Princess for 10+ years pretty well. I think the draft is good. The problem is loose flakey soot building up in the connector pipe and then falling into the stove, where it prevents the bypass damper from closing properly (in the position where smoke is forced through the catalytic). When the stove is cold, I'm able to reach up from inside the stove and brush most of the flakey stuff out. I'm pretty sure the problem is the smoke getting too cold in the connector pipe when I'm doing low overnight burns (which I do a lot in mid-winter).

See picture below.

So I'm thinking just one 24" piece of double-wall could remedy the situation. It'd keep the smoke nice and hot about halfway from the stove to the chimney; I suspect that would solve the problem. And I wouldn't have to hassle with double-wall elbows, or the transition to the chimney itself. I'm just put off by the DVL instructions stating not to mix single- and double-wall pipe.

 

[begreen]

BK recommends and I concur that the entire run be done in double-wall.

Single-wall has a clearance of 18" to combustibles. What is the wall construction behind the stove pipe?

 

[RustyShackleford]

BK recommends and I concur that the entire run be done in double-wall.

BK has told me privately that single-wall is fine, if my draft is good with it. They recommend it so people don't complain about the stove smoking during reloads.

Single-wall has a clearance of 18" to combustibles. What is the wall construction behind the stove pipe?

It's cinderblock filled with mortar and covered with stucco.

 

[begreen]

Draft improvement by keeping the flue gas temperature is one reason but it isn't the only reason why. The flue output from the BK is cooler, bringing it closer to the condensation point of creosote. Double-wall stove pipe helps reduce buildup by keeping the gases above the condesation point.

 

[EbS-P]

When was the cat replaced or how many hours are on it?

 

[RustyShackleford]

he flue output from the BK is cooler, bringing it closer to the condensation point of creosote. Double-wall stove pipe helps reduce buildup by keeping the gases above the condesation point.

That's what I'm hoping to achieve by using some double-wall pipe.

 

[RustyShackleford]

When was the cat replaced or how many hours are on it?

I replaced one that had many years on it with a new one this past January. It did not make any difference.

 

[begreen]

That's what I'm hoping to achieve by using some double-wall pipe.

I guess I am not understanding why one would consider a partial fix especially when the manufacturer says don't do it. It's like replacing only one side of a cars tires for "some" improvement.

 

[RustyShackleford]

I guess I am not understanding why one would consider a partial fix especially when the manufacturer says don't do it. It's like replacing only one side of a cars tires for "some" improvement.

rThe situation isn't that bad right now. Seems like insulating roughly half of the single-wall would solve the problem, that's all. Less heat would be wasted (by going out the chimney instead of being radiated out from the exposed single-wall) and I wouldn't have to hassle with the elbows. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can always make the whole thing double-wall later. I can't think of a single reason why it'd be a problem to just put one piece of double-wall coming up from the stove; I can definitely think of a reason they'd say not to do it (and it has nothing to do with safety or flue performance).

 

[begreen]

The stove pipe is not meant to be a source of heat, that's the stove's job. It's the reason a very efficient stove like the BK has lower flue temps.

That said, it's your home to do with as pleased, but if there is any insurance case related to the stove, that combo would be an instant disqualifier.

 

[EbS-P]

If it were mine it would be all or nothing. If I’m going to order parts I’d just do the whole thing. If that is more money or hassle than I want to commit to, then I’d leave it the way it was and clean it more often.

It’s not like it’s not functioning. How many more years will you burn that BK or have you have you had all the firebricks out recently?

Don’t make the fix a bigger deal than what you are fixing.

edit. Getting cold tomorrow in NC!

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

and I wouldn't have to hassle with the elbows. I

I have been using double wall stove pipe (Security Chimney) for at least 25-30 years, the stove pipe is removed and swept twice a year, I just don't get it with '' the hassle with the elbows '' it's never been a problem.

I can't think of a single reason why it'd be a problem to just put one piece of double-wall coming up from the stove; I can definitely think of a reason they'd say not to do it (and it has nothing to do with safety or flue performance).

I can, it's called making things idiot proof.

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

I can definitely think of a reason they'd say not to do it (and it has nothing to do with safety or flue performance).

If it has nothing to do with safety or performance then what? Those are the two main reasons to switch.

 

[RustyShackleford]

If it were mine it would be all or nothing. If I’m going to order parts I’d just do the whole thing. If that is more money or hassle than I want to commit to, then I’d leave it the way it was and clean it more often.

Don’t make the fix a bigger deal than what you are fixing.

Yeah, maybe so.

It’s not like it’s not functioning. How many more years will you burn that BK or have you have you had all the firebricks out recently?

I've never taken the firebricks out. Should I ?

 

[begreen]

Yeah, maybe so.

I've never taken the firebricks out. Should I ?

Yes, long-term creosote buildup behind them can corode out the firebox.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Yes, long-term creosote buildup behind them can corode out the firebox.

But can I do anything about it ? Try to clean it off ?

 

[begreen]

But can I do anything about it ? Try to clean it off ?

Yes, scrape it off. There have been a few postings about this in the BK forum.