Duratech Pipe and Support box temps

[begreen]

Different wood is going to give you different results. We burn mostly doug fir so the temps I have been giving you are for that species (in our stove). I just put in our first load of all locust on a restart. Locust packs a lot of heat. The flue temp is up to 630F with the air all the way closed. I started turning the air down at 400F and proceeded to just 1/8 open pretty rapidly. Now the air is all the way closed. The stove top temp has not quite caught up yet. It's at 625F, but climbing steadily.

 

[p301]

So today i took my dvl off the stove and cleaned with a soot eater from the bottom up i was suprised to see the dvl adapter pushed in and dented where the installer tried to install self tapping screws? Im not sure if this was the correct way to connect the dvl but i assume the dented sections helped make those high readings as it was barely acting as a single wall pipe and they were the exact spots it was reading the hottest if you remember me saying the right side was so much hotter than the left. How do you guys suppose i go about fixing this? I think i should bend them straight and predrill where the self tapper was hitting then install the dvl so thr screws suck it tight together. Honestly i dont know why he even put the screws in the screws in the telescoping section would have held it tight? Any suggestions does it look like it was done correctly? And should the dvl have holes through it from the self tappers? Here are some pictures

 

[begreen]

Have seen this before, especially with double-wall pipe. The adapter collar is thin metal. Once the pipe is up and in place, I like to pre-drill a small pilot hole that allows the screw to get started and attach to the ring.

How did the cleaning go?

 

[p301]

Thanks again for the quick reply im burning oil waiting to put it back together and not happy about it! Cleaning went great it was very clean considering the crappy wood i burned in the beginning. I will feel much more comfortable turning it down sooner now. The soot eater saved me from going on my steep roof in the snow although in the spring i will go up and inspect but its a great mid season cleaning tool. Btw it seems to be a better deal just to buy a whole second soot eater if you need extra rods than to buy the rods alone. So i assume your suggestion is to do as i said straighten it out as best i can and look at where the self tappers were trying to drill and put a piliot hole in and let the screw suck it straight?

 

[begreen]

So i assume your suggestion is to do as i said straighten it out as best i can and look at where the self tappers were trying to drill and put a piliot hole in and let the screw suck it straight?

Yes, straighten out the adapter collar. Install the stove pipe. Then take a drill and using a sharp drill bit make a tap hole in the collar. Use a black panhead sheet metal screw to attach to the adapter.

 

[p301]

Done and back up and running. Thanks again cant wait to see if it changes the temps up top.

 

[p301]

Got a flu temp of 725 bottom ring on support box a consistent 210 all the way around temp at trim 167 all the way around! I feel much better about this !

 

[begreen]

That's still higher than you need to go. I'm not surprised about the clean flue considering those earlier high flue temps.

This is with the Endeavor, right? If yes, I don't think you need to pull the stove pipe for routine cleaning. The sooteater should be able to go right up through the bypass. Maybe just take the pipe off the stove once a year so that you can easily clean out the top of the baffle and do a thorough cleaning.

 

[p301]

I know it was hot i was trying to replicate what i had before so i knew what i had going on. I actually went out for a short snowball fight and got in and the flu was pushing 800 i had about 260 at the bottom ring and 200 up at the trim piece now that i see what i have going on thats enough playing with it. It still doesnt xplain to me how you had that hot fire and flu temps and the way cooler support box. Yes its an endeavor. I didnt like the idea of pulling all that crap on top of the bypass and letting it sit there

 

[begreen]

I know it was hot i was trying to replicate what i had before so i knew what i had going on. I actually went out for a short snowball fight and got in and the flu was pushing 800 i had about 260 at the bottom ring and 200 up at the trim piece now that i see what i have going on thats enough playing with it. It still doesnt xplain to me how you had that hot fire and flu temps and the way cooler support box. Yes its an endeavor. I didnt like the idea of pulling all that crap on top of the bypass and letting it sit there

The stove will get hotter in the firebox and cooler in the flue when good secondary combustion it taking place. This is because much more complete combustion is occurring in the stove and less pollution and heat is heading out the flue. As noted above, start turning down the air sooner, like when the flue reaches 450º.

Also, never leave the stove before it is turned down to cruising temp unless you set a reminder timer. It is too easy to get distracted and for flue temps to skyrocket up to unsafe levels. I've had loads go from 400F to 1200F in the flue in less than 5 minutes.

Open up the bypass and clean the flue from the bottom up, through the bypass hole with the sooteater.

 

[p301]

Thanks begreen i noticed that this morning i left it at about 300 for 10 minutes and i came back and it was 800. Its scary how fast that temp rockets up. I especially notice it really takes off if you open the door to move a piece of wood and then close it while the bypass is closed. If i open the bypass before i open the door and close it after i close the door it does not take off the same way.

 

[p301]

It seems to be very difficult to get the firebox up to 550-600 and keep the flue temp under the 600 mark especially when its a cold start. By the time the flu is 600 the stove is usually at 275 so when i lower the air it isnt warm enough to maintain thr secondary combustion. The wood is good and dry. Should i let the flue peak at 800 in order to get the secondaries going? Last night i loaded some fresh wood in with the fire at 400 and couldnt get it back under control (i wont do that again) the blower brought the temp down eventual but the stove had settled at 650 but the flu wouldnt drop off 800 with the air all the way closed. Thank god i got the blower. There really should be a way to shut these things down by closing all the air

Also anytime the flue gets to 700 degrees that ceiling support box is getting into the 260 temp at the bottom and 200 near the trim. Its driving me crazy thinking about it being that hot especially if somhow it overfired when i was asleep. Im considering ripping out all the wood holding it together and installing steel am i crazy to be concerned about this? I keep thinking if thats 260 how can the wood 2" away not be reaching 200 and having pyrolic action

 

[p301]

sorry to bring an old thread back to life. I'm not sure if you guys remember me complaining of the extremely hot temps at my ceiling support box as shown from my IR thermometer in the pictures above. Today i took my chimney apart to clean it and i was thinking about those high temps. I decided to take my connector off to the ceiling support box and couldnt help staring at it and just thinking something doesn't make sense, why would the little holes at the top of the dual wall pipe be blocked by the trim kit? So after looking at it scratching my head I went online and saw the connector from the dvl to the ceiling support box looked different. i went back to my bill from the supplier and they gave me a 6dvl-adc which looks like it can be used with either durablack or dvl so i guess technically it is the right part, but the 6dvl-adt adapter seems like its specifically made for the dvl chimney and is not a one size fits all in addition those little holes between the inner and outer pipe continue. Does anyone think that switching the the dvl adt would provide a better connection and keep the support box temps down?