Dura Vent flashing question

[rybern]

Roof is a 8-12 but changes to a 4-12 pretty close to where the chimney pipe goes through the roof. The hole through the roof is in the 8-12 portion and the center of the pipe is about 11" up the roof from the transition point. The cone of the flashing comes down to the roof at nearly the same point as the roof transition. I'm thinking that the flat part of the flashing will bend just fine.

Do you see any issues with this? Home is new construction and the roofer as to approve this in order to warranty the roof. I'm hoping this will work so I won't have to use any elbows.

 

[MAD MARK]

I see no issue.

Especially on a new build roof it should be put in properly.

 

[Ludlow]

The flashing isnt a problem. Can you get the shingle under it far enough up without touching it to the class A? Be sure that it too has 2" of clearance.

 

[xman23]

FYI. My roof is 12 / 12. On the side of the house with the stove I did a 5 / 12 porch roof the goes up over the main roof. Far enough the the straight chimney comes through the 5 /12. All of the flashing is on the 5 /12. I can stand on that roof. I designed the roofs so I can do a top down cleaning off ladders on the roof. This cleaning method is not for everyone, but for me it's fine.

So double check the where all the flashing lands. It's big. On the transition of the roofs would not work. I made a rounded moulding for this. And cracked a shingle there when I got the ladder on it.

 

[rybern]

I'll definitely make sure there is 2" of clearance. I plan to have the cut out match the bottom of the cone. I tend to be very particular about things. We currently have synthetic underlayment on and won't have shingle on for a few weeks. I cut a rafter and boxed in where the chimney pipe will go through yesterday.

I plan to climb back up on the roof today with the flashing and take a pic with the flashing in position that I'm proposing. I'll post it here later.

My chimney will extend 6' above the opening. When I clean, I plan to remove the top 4'. I don't think this boy will be using a ladder on top of the roof.

 

[MAD MARK]

Sounds like you know what your doing and are planning correctly.

I have 5' sticking out of roof but still pull the top piece (3') to do cleaning. Why fight it when I can twist it off in 5 seconds.

 

[rybern]

Sounds like you know what your doing and are planning correctly.

I have 5' sticking out of roof but still pull the top piece (3') to do cleaning. Why fight it when I can twist it off in 5 seconds.

Thanks Mark. I also want to point out that my chimney is only 6' because the ridge is only 5.5-6' away. I'll make sure the 2:10 rule applies.

Here are a few pics to clarify things.

 

[Dobish]

no problem there at all. i would put a 2x4 across the flashing and pound it to get a really nice fit along that transition, but it is on the bottom end and pretty minimal. at first i was envisioning the bend being in the middle of the stove pipe!

 

[rybern]

no problem there at all. i would put a 2x4 across the flashing and pound it to get a really nice fit along that transition, but it is on the bottom end and pretty minimal. at first i was envisioning the bend being in the middle of the stove pipe!

Pics are worth a thousand words. Yea, a transition in the middle of the pipe would be a problem.

I appreciate everyones responses.

 

[Ludlow]

Were me I wouldnt nail or screw the bottom edge in this case. I would nail the sides and let the bottom couple of inches bend just from the force. Cant be sure until you do it how it will work best and land on the shingles. Moving it a foot up the roof would be better but cant always do that I know.

 

[rybern]

Were me I wouldnt nail or screw the bottom edge in this case. I would nail the sides and let the bottom couple of inches bend just from the force. Cant be sure until you do it how it will work best and land on the shingles. Moving it a foot up the roof would be better but cant always do that I know.

That makes sense to me about not nailing it. Right before they lay shingles, I plan to cut the hole and attach the flashing with the top holes only. I'll let them do the bottom since they will provide a warranty.

Here's a sketch.

 

[MAD MARK]

Never mentioned what stove this was hooking up to?

Maybe it could use a few more inches wall clearance and would move the whole flashing up the roof some so no transition? It
looks awefully close to the support beams/members from your one picture as far as stove piping goes.

 

[rybern]

Never mentioned what stove this was hooking up to?

Maybe it could use a few more inches wall clearance and would move the whole flashing up the roof some so no transition? It
looks awefully close to the support beams/members from your one picture as far as stove piping goes.

Going with a BK Sirocco 30. I'm doing a corner install and positioning the flue 19" from each wall (~1" over minimum). There is a lot more clearance than it looks. Not sure if this pic helps, but heres another view.

 

[Ludlow]

Looks like it will work fine from that angle.

 

[rybern]

Ok, our roofer wasn't comfortable placing the flashing that close to the valley. I have purchased a 15 degree offset kit to shift the chimney up the roof about 8 inches. I also bought a 12", 18" and 24" piece of Duratech to play with in order to get the desired offset. It seems to me that a standard brush should work just fine, hopefully it will.

 

[MAD MARK]

Just when you think you get it figured out...