Drywall Temps behind your stove

[KDubU]

At a local deer hunting camp, the install had not met CTC. This included the single wall stove pipe.

Wanna know how it was addressed?


Nothing more than a length of aluminum foil hung behind the pipe and stove. Been like that for years! Would I do that in a house for full time burning? Ha! But, you can't argue with success; it works well and costs less than a buck! (see what I did there? Deer camp....less than a buck? Aw, forget it!)

Nice!

 

[begreen]

At a local deer hunting camp, the install had not met CTC. This included the single wall stove pipe.
Wanna know how it was addressed?
Nothing more than a length of aluminum foil hung behind the pipe and stove. Been like that for years! Would I do that in a house for full time burning? Ha! But, you can't argue with success; it works well and costs less than a buck! (see what I did there? Deer camp....less than a buck? Aw, forget it!)

True, the gauge of the metal is not that important unless it is in a place likely to get banged by stove tools and the like. It's the free flow of air moving behind that is important. (As for the deer camp comment, I get your point, rack up another one he said as he stag-gered away.)

 

[begreen]

View attachment 308693
the possibilities are endless for a heat shield...

A ball peen hammered a sheet of copper for the shield behind can look cool.

Close Clearance Alcove

Any advice on hammering? did you put it on a sheet of plywood or what? I'm definitely going to do this, will likely just screw the copper into my osb celing but I think this will be cool looking and i've got the stuff so why not.

www.hearth.com

Plain copper looks great too.

Copper wall shield installed

Today my wife and I finally got the copper wall shield up that we bought over the summer. We thought we were going to need it, but ended up with double wall pipe and the stove shield, so it's really not necessary, but we had already dropped the cash of a 4x10'sheet of copper, so we put it up...

www.hearth.com

 

[Woodspliter]

I found a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal 4x8 of FB marketplace for 120 bucks that would do the job and there would be leftovers for another project

 

[begreen]

That's overkill unless you need heavy elsewhere. I'd price out a sheet of 26 ga for comparison. Lighter gauge steel is much easier to hem.

 

[Woodspliter]

Yeah your right. I just was scrolling Facebook. I could just get the edges bent to hold its shape better

 

[begreen]

How wide is the wall behind the stove? If arond 33" a basic black hearth board could be put on spacers.

https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/fireplaces-stoves/fireplace-wood-stove-tools-accessories/hearth-pads/hy-c-32-x-42-black-floor-wall-shield/t2ul3242bl-1c/p-1444433713153.htm

Yeah your right. I just was scrolling Facebook. I could just get the edges bent to hold its shape better

The spacers should do that. Hemming on a thinner gauge sheet will also stiffen the piece.

 

[Woodspliter]

I have 42.5x58 would be The size I need. The is a local sheet metal place near by ill get a hold of them next week and see what they would charge to fab it up.

 

[Max W]

I have 42.5x58 would be The size I need. The is a local sheet metal place near by ill get a hold of them next week and see what they would charge to fab it up.

It just sunk in you are from Maine. I have a piece of 20 ga. 46x59, 1” hems, painted with black stove and grill paint. Don’t know where you are but It’s yours if you want it. I. Just replaced my old Waterford Stanley with a newer one. With the old stove out of the way I was going to replace the stove board shield with a wider steel one. When I bought the newer stove over in NH. It was against a wall and I did not read the UL plate. I planned the shield based on an apparently older manual and my current install. Turns out seeing the UL plate I have plenty of clearance with no shield needed.

If interested message me in conversations.

 

[jjf888]

Yes, the shield would need to be on 1" non-combustible spacers. It can start at least 1" from the floor and reach to about a foot over the stovetop. It can go up the full length of the wall but must be open at least 1" at the top. This is to allow cool air to convect freely behind the shield.

I am at the recommended safe wall distance for my Morso but I have had cracking on the dry wall. Could that be from temp swings? The walls around the stove run around 120-140° at their peak.

Any recommendations for an attractive heat shield?

 

[Newbie78]

There's probably a million pieces of embossed metal artwork available that would function perfectly and look outstanding for that purpose. It's not science rockets...

 

[begreen]

I am at the recommended safe wall distance for my Morso but I have had cracking on the dry wall. Could that be from temp swings? The walls around the stove run around 120-140° at their peak.

This is not likely due to those temperatures. That's what our walls have seen for over a decade. It is most likely due to something else like settling in that area or poor mud work. In our area, I would add possible earthquake damage.

 

[Prometeo]

So I was on a hot reload when I took the readings. Still trying to dail the new f55 in. I even installed a damper in the pipe right before the thimble. Even closed down it will cruise at 800 to 900 exhaust themp about 700 on stove top. Yeah it was pushing 200 behind pipe on the sheetrock a lot more than I'd like to admit

View attachment 308632

HI, what is your reload time? I really like this stove, Jotul Italia says it doesn't have certifications for Italy😤

 

[Nate R]

IR guns are not gospel. Emissivity of the surface can vastly change the readings, and this varies on how shiny the surface is, color, etc. They are good for a rough idea, but using that to determine if your drywall is 170 or 190 is not accurate enough to trust.

 

[Woodspliter]

I can't get 8-9 hours with a good hot coal bed before I reload. It gets a little tricky starting a fire after work a 5 and stoking before bed at 10:30 this is when I load it east to west seems to work well for me I like the stove a lot

 

[Prometeo]

in the site, EPA gov which I think is tested data, about 85000 btu are indicated for this stove, the highest, that's a ton of heat! do you confirm?

 

[Woodspliter]

I believe it's 80k BTU's

 

[PaulBunyun]

Ken Rajesky is quoted in a wiki link descdribing how stoves are tested for clearances

The benchmark temperature, which determines safe clearances, is typically 115 degrees F over the ambient room temperature. In other words, if the ambient room temperature is 70F, the benchmark wall temperature cannot exceed 185F. If temperatures exceed 185F, the stove must be located further away from the wall. That is why movable walls on tracks are used. If the temperatures exceed 185F, the walls are moved back until the temperatures recorded are less than 185F. In a nutshell, the stove is run through the complete test, the temperatures are recorded, and safe clearances are established.

Wood Stoves and Fireplaces - WOOD STOVE WALL CLEARANCES - PRIMER

Written by Ken Rajesky, Hearth Industry Expert. After the difficult decision of what stove to buy has been made, you’ll need to install the stove safely. However good the stove is, it’s still not safe unless installed to manufacturers specifications. First, review the owners guide that came...

www.hearth.com

Better to shoot for something a good amount lower and leave room for stove temps above the normal. The heat shield will do that. Yes, put up a proper shield and get that good night sleep. I was thinking cement board needed to be covered with tile but could well be wrong. If you would rather sheet steel a local shop should be able to cut you piece of maybe 22 ga and hem the edges pretty reasonably for that small area.

Funny thing, by the way, my new Etekcity infrared gun arrived and I used it for the first time today. It verified that my drywall temps were fine. Had the stove going good for a stretch tonight to keep the oven and pizza stone heating at 500. Wall temp still fine. Slick little device.

This is very interesting, thanks for posting!

 

[begreen]

170ºF is the maximum recommended for long-term exposure. There is a long explanation at the bottom of the page here. This was backed up with visual evidence of HW heating pipe charring the surrounding wood.

Sweep's Library - The wall behind our stove feels too hot

The wall behind our stove is hot. Could this be dangerous?

hearth.com

 

[Woodspliter]

Working on the heat shield as I post. I'm in the process of giving the basement a refresh as well. I'll have it up for next heating season for sure. Just have to finish hemming the seam over and paint it with matching automotive finish.

 

[Woodspliter]

So it took a little while to get my heat shield up. I decided to go with a brick look

 

[Woodspliter]

I thought I came out pretty realistic. The bricks are actually rust. I clear the mortar lines, and intentionally made the bare metal rust.

 

[umproject]

Hi, I am building a new wall behind a wood stove. I am using cement boards (Durock) applied on bricks. Is that to apply standard drywall mud/ compound on cement boards behind stove?

 

[begreen]

Don't use drywall mud. Will there be tile applied to the cement board? If so, use latex-modified thinset.

 

[umproject]

Don't use drywall mud. Will there be tile applied to the cement board? If so, use latex-modified thinset.

Thanks for the reply. No I am just paint the wall white. The stone installer asked that I build the wall out of cement board, not dry wall bc he said cement boards are not flammable. So that is what I just need. Ready to mud the cement boards and want to make sure standard drwyall coumpound is fine behind a wood stove.