Haha good thing it was only a dollarI did the Dollar Bill test......burned half the Bill
I will take did it later this eveningThis pic is taken from the hinge side, correct? What does the level show there, when you get a chance?
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If that door (and perhaps the stove face) is warped, I would definitely return it. It is going to be a constant battle keeping it functioning correctly.
I'm glad you checked it out good. Saves you a whole lot of grief on down the road.We just got to the store and will not be taking ownership of this stove, excess rtv and the stove body is warped from then using a punch vs cutting with a plasma cutter, door was fine, stove firebox itself had a huge gap between the door so it would have never sealed properly.
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Sounds like you've done things correctly. I don't suspect the altitude is an issue. Is the tee cap on tight? If so the problem may be the leaky door gasket is preventing full vacuum developing in the firebox. That could reduce suction on the secondary tube holes.begreen
I have 27in. straight up off the stove. I made a long radius el out of 2-45s this goes into 12in pipe 1/4 in.
rise per foot into a 10in. snout . This goes to a tee hooked to 19ft. of 6in. insulated flex. The flex and tee is in a interior
brick chimney the clay tile has been removed from.
Thanks
If you do and Lowes will swap it out, bring the straightedge with you and check the new stove body and door before picking it up.I am going to get this corrected but I was hoping that the new gasket would be a bandaid. Maybe I will just call Lowe's and get it taken care of there. Sounds like it might be the fastest way
Thanks to this thread as a reminder, I think things are actually going to pan out better in the end, I talked my friend into order a nc30, plus when I showed the manager at HD the issue, she gave him a $100 gift card towards his next purchase, showed her the framing square with the big gap / bow on the firebox, told her someone could have burned there house down with this manufacturers defect via run away fireI'm glad you checked it out good. Saves you a whole lot of grief on down the road.
bergreenSounds like you've done things correctly. I don't suspect the altitude is an issue. Is the tee cap on tight? If so the problem may be the leaky door gasket is preventing full vacuum developing in the firebox. That could reduce suction on the secondary tube holes.
Glad things worked out for you. I just hope they don't sell it to someone else.Thanks to this thread as a reminder, I think things are actually going to pan out better in the end, I talked my friend into order a nc30, plus when I showed the manager at HD the issue, she gave him a $100 gift card towards his next purchase, showed her the framing square with the big gap / bow on the firebox, told her someone could have burned there house down with this manufacturers defect via run away fire
What is the dollar, a re-stocking fee?We just got to the store and will not be taking ownership of this stove, excess rtv and the stove body is warped from then using a punch vs cutting with a plasma cutter, door was fine, stove firebox itself had a huge gap between the door so it would have never sealed properly.
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Good luck trying to get Englander to warranty this, they are in COMPLETE denial that there is anything wrong with this model. For an in depth description on my nightmare ck this link. They did send me a replacement stove that was WORSE than the original.I recently purchased a summer heat 2400, it burns great but the problem is it burns to great. It doesn't really over fire but I can fill the firebox and normally only get about a 4 hour burn. I did the dollar bill test this morning and I was able to pull it out in 3 different locations. I am assuming that this is one of my problems if not the problem. I have never had to deal wit the this before so what do I need to now? Do I need to get a bigger gasket for around the door? Thanks for the help.
They now use that huge gasket on all the 2400 models, but even that is no match for a quarter inch of gap.I went ahead and bought 1" gasket for maybe a bandaid fix until I here something from them. This is my main source of heat and I want to use as little as oil as possible. I will take some more pictures with the level while I have the door off and post them later.
I have a hard time keeping mine under 600 (which is the recommended max regular operating temp) unless i put just a few pieces of wood in the stove. Forget overnight burns. My door is bowed out in the middle top and bottom and the stove is bowed in,in the same place.It will burn hot but I have been home the whole time and have been able to keep it some what under control. It likes to get into that 500-550 and just stay that which isn't over fire but it will eat the wood fast. I keep the fan on and have another fan I blow on it when the temps get up.
THats EXACTLY what this model has is a design problem. They now ship it with a huge 1 " gasket already installed trying to fix the warped stove and door gaps. problem is after the gasket flattens out a little you have leaks all over.I doubt the stove has a design flaw that requires the end user to install a thicker gasket. You need to determine the root cause of the problem.
I agree ,i have 2 NC-30s ,never had a single issue with either one. The door is a lot heavier and smaller though than the Summers heat model,less prone to warping.The 30NC is a proven workhorse, but be sure the hearth meets spec if switching.
Perhaps, but it could also be a fabrication problem. If the manufacturer built a run of these stoves and now realize they all warped (welding, if not done correctly, could warp that front face), the thicker gasket may be a workaround so they don't have to scrap a bunch of stoves.THats EXACTLY what this model has is a design problem. They now ship it with a huge 1 " gasket already installed trying to fix the warped stove and door gaps. problem is after the gasket flattens out a little you have leaks all over.
Thats my next step , and i dhave to push it a little farther to match the bow in the door, but unfortunately it may only work on the lower door sealing edge. The upper one has the air wash plate in the way plus the right side where the latch is ,is protruding outward, no way to fix that. Its really a shame englander is letting their customers deal with this defect alone, no one should have to reengineer one of their stoves purchased in good faith ,and they seem to just keep putting out more of these with the same problem.Seasoned Oak, have you considered taking a hydraulic jack to carefully press the front back into a flat plane?
Does anyone know how many years they have had this problem?Thats my next step , and i dhave to push it a little farther to match the bow in the door, but unfortunately it may only work on the lower door sealing edge. The upper one has the air wash plate in the way plus the right side where the latch is ,is protruding outward, no way to fix that. Its really a shame englander is letting their customers deal with this defect alone, no one should have to reengineer one of their stoves purchased in good faith ,and they seem to just keep putting out more of these with the same problem.
This model has been out for years ,and with the same problem. They know all about it. Im dealing with mine for 3 years, and apparently englander is still selling this same stove with the same problem. Read the reviews on the lowes site where i bought mine in selinsgrove pa. 7 stoves out of 20 with this same problem ,and other purchasers stating englander does not return their calls. Oddly even some of those still giving the stove 3 stars,i kinda understand this as its a great stove if you can get the door to seal. My first glowing review is Randy No. 2 just after i bought the stove. The second,not so glowing (no 17) 8 months later after dealing with the defects. Some of the reviews just state the stove only burns for 2 hours on one load of wood without determining a cause ,i suspect these have the same excess air problem caused by the door. One reviewer said the doors glass fell out in mid fire and hes lucky he didnt burn down his house. (mine did that too) as the door warps more the glass gets loose. Serious safety issue.Perhaps, but it could also be a fabrication problem. If the manufacturer built a run of these stoves and now realize they all warped (welding, if not done correctly, could warp that front face), the thicker gasket may be a workaround so they don't have to scrap a bunch of stoves.
I bought my original stove in Dec of 2016.Does anyone know how many years they have had this problem?
When did it start showing up?
The model NC13 I bought had mostly good reports too. Now I have found it has that same problemI bought my original stove in Dec of 2016.
So far it has only been with the larger 50 SSW02 models. IIRC, it showed up pretty early in production, but remember, for the most part, we only hear about the problems. Folks that are happy with their stoves usually don't come online to talk about them.Does anyone know how many years they have had this problem?
When did it start showing up?
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