Difficult (i.e., expensive) installation?

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Discountchimneysupply just gave me a $2100 estimate for materials (minus the stove, fan, OAK, hearth pad)

I guessed on some if the data I gave them in their online form so I expect some adjustment in the estimate. (I think I told them 8 inch stovepipe.)

I'm back in the city for an appointment but when I get back on site in a few days I will measure ceiling height, roof height, distance from peak and come back with some actual numbers. My impression is that 4-5 feet from the peak will yield a reasonable exterior chimney length.
 
A 6" flue system will cost less. Compare prices and watch quality. Rockford Chimney is a reputable firm. WoodStovePro.com has a diverse selection of stovepipe/chimney brands. The Excel metal roof flashing is a good solution for the flashing. Avoid silicone and rubber boot flashings.

When calculating the chimney height, keep the 10-3-2 rule in mind.
[Hearth.com] Difficult (i.e., expensive) installation?
 
The OP mentions that this manufactured home has a vaulted ceiling. If it is 11-12' high, this will help with achieving the 15' minimum without a tall exterior chimney section if the flue exits close to the peak.

Vaulted ceilings in double wides are common due to the low ceilings at the perimeter. The vaulted space just subtracts from the attic space so it doesn't enter into the math. All that matters is the roof deck to finished floor distance.

Very rarely you see a special modular home where a whole roof section is dropped separately that might have a steeper pitch. Otherwise, this thing has to roll down the highway on a trailer so they're short.
 
Avoid rubber boots? I had concluded that rubber boots were the way to go. :(

I said I have a standing seam roof. I think/thought I had a standing seam roof. It looks like a standing seam roof but I plead ignorance. It has vertical joints where the adjacent pieces are connected at the edges but they are not sealed at the joints. In any case the chimney should pass through the metal roof in the flat sections between the vertical sections. I concluded that the rubber boot was the preferred method for that. But I'm not married to rubber boots. I will research Excel metal roof flashing.

Apparently I'm required to buy all the chimney (and stove pipe?) components from the same manufacturer. The estimate I got uses duravent, etc., products.

Once again, I thank you all for your help.
 
Vaulted ceilings in double wides are common due to the low ceilings at the perimeter. The vaulted space just subtracts from the attic space so it doesn't enter into the math. All that matters is the roof deck to finished floor distance.
It matters to the pocketbook and aesthetics. The vaulted ceiling means that the height will be made up of more stovepipe than more expensive chimney pipe and more of the flue will be interior than exterior.
 
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Avoid rubber boots? I had concluded that rubber boots were the way to go. :(

I said I have a standing seam roof. I think/thought I had a standing seam roof. It looks like a standing seam roof but I plead ignorance. It has vertical joints where the adjacent pieces are connected at the edges but they are not sealed at the joints. In any case the chimney should pass through the metal roof in the flat sections between the vertical sections. I concluded that the rubber boot was the preferred method for that. But I'm not married to rubber boots. I will research Excel metal roof flashing.

Apparently I'm required to buy all the chimney (and stove pipe?) components from the same manufacturer. The estimate I got uses duravent, etc., products.

Once again, I thank you all for your help.
Yes rubber boots are trash and will leak in 5 years or so
 
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Yes rubber boots are trash and will leak in 5 years or so
Thank you for posting that. Spending much of my life in the roofing trade, I love standing seam and despise those silicone rubber boots.
Not only are they trash, they are downright FUGLY.

OP the Excel system will be more expensive but, buy once cry once applies. It is a top of the line brand.
 
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