Did the cleaning, made a custom baffle gasket, shes cooking now.

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firefighterjake said:
Hogwildz:

Great post . . . shows the noobs and born-again woodburners what we need to do to properly clean the stove.

Also, loved the pics of the secondary fire . . . and now I realize why I'm not getting overnight fires . . . I'm not using the biggest splits and rounds that I have . . . just loading it up with small/medium splits.

Small & mediums for me won't cut it for a good overnight burn. They will burn hot yes, but not long, well not as long as big splits.
That one round was about 9" or so. I split the wood last year for big rectangular splits specifically for overnight burns. I am still burning crap wood up first though.
I am going with the rectangular and square splits to get as much spaced packed up as possible. Rounds do work good also but ya get some unusable space also.
If I have any space left on top, then I add mediums & smalls to fill any gaps.
 
madison said:
thanks for the pics and great tutorial. one question, what is the diameter of the gasket material? thanks in advance

I think it is 3/8"
 
great job hog!
why do you have the extra length on top the chimney? was that to help draft?
now i gotta get some 3/8 and make one too good idea!! and helluva fire!!
 
iceman said:
great job hog!
why do you have the extra length on top the chimney? was that to help draft?
now i gotta get some 3/8 and make one too good idea!! and helluva fire!!
Well with the rigid, I wanted to make sure I had enough. The seam is about 6" or so below the top of the clay tile.
I prolly could have gotten away with a 1' section, but would rather have been too long than too short.
Some day I may see if 1' will clear, but for now Its good for me.
 
CK-1 said:
Hogwildz,

Quick question. The insulation blanket that makes up the baffle, why not use that material to make your baffle gasket?. Seems like it would have been easier to work with...

I don't have any laying around. Its too fragile & compressible. The original gasket material may be some variation of that.
I had the rope gasket & wanted something that I can continually reuse after each seasons cleaning. And it was free.
 
I am about to replace my toasted baffle gasket.

When perusing the NorthlineExpress website, I noticed that they have 11/16" Wide "Grapho-Glas Flat woodstove gasket Tape". (broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5RU-93)

Has anyone examined this material? And would like to add an opinion if this material would work for replacement of the Summit/Alderlea baffle gasket? Specifically, it's thickness compared to the OEM gasket vs Hog's 3/8" modification.

Also, any opinions on various glue/adhesives for cementing door gaskets?
(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/category/woodstove-gaskets.asp)

Hog, how did the 3/8" gasket hold up this past season?

Thanks in advance
 
Duh! I just realized that fashioning the corners of the rectangular gasket with the flat tape would be impossible.

Hog, rather than weaving the two ends of the 3/8" gasket material, do you think that you could use the gasket cement to join the two ends of the gasket?

Also, any opinions on the various gasket cements?
 
Actually, the issue is the 11/16" width. The PE gasket is only about 3 or 4/16ths wide. And door window gasket is usually pretty thin. Maybe the graphite gasket could be cut down the middle? Making corners is easy. Cut out the 45 deg. bevels.
 
One picture IS worth a thousand words, Hogwildz. You just proved it. Well done and very informative post.

Thank You.

John_M
 
BeGreen said:
Actually, the issue is the 11/16" width. The PE gasket is only about 3 or 4/16ths wide. And door window gasket is usually pretty thin. Maybe the graphite gasket could be cut down the middle? Making corners is easy. Cut out the 45 deg. bevels.

Duh!.... Again. Seems like the 3/8" rope would be more sturdy, rather than cutting the corners and ripping the width of the tape.

Thanks for the observations.
 
You can try the furnace cement, but I think your going to find it break off and falls apart.
I dont know that for sure, but thats what I imagine happening.
I have not cleaned her yet, which I need to do soon. I'll report how it held up when I get it apart & check the home made gasket.
 
madison said:
CK-1 said:
Why not make the gasket of out Kaowool?..

Thanks, did a quick search, but only found $400 rolls... Any link or source to find smaller quantities?

Just did a quick search to find this.. Could be better deals out there.. etc..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kaowool-Ceramic-Fiber-Blank--2300-1"x24"x25'-8#-dens-rl_W0QQitemZ130314582957QQcmdZViewItem
 
Hogwildz said:
And now the piece de resistance.............
The Neanderthal style Summit baffle gasket.
Hand semi braided/ semi tied and itchy fingers afterwards.
Secondary channel naked..................
Secondary channel newly clothed with the Custom Caveman gasket..................
And a shot of the pc of crap gasket PE sells.

Just got done creating the "Hogasket" with 3/8" rope gasket. It took about 5 minutes to tie it up, I used latex gloves to prevent the itchy fingers. First try ended up being a little bit oversized, so I chopped out the knots, and retied.

Impressive amount (~1/4") of compacted ash dust was on top of the baffle!

Pretty simple task, thanks a ton for the great outline and pics.

Still wondering how the "Hogasket" will hold up, can't be any worse than the OEM gasket. There was only a couple fragments remaining of the OEM gasket when I removed the baffle...


Thanks again.
 
We used to run a bike shop in Manchester, NH named Hog Wild
:)
Attended the owners full Military Funeral today.
Saw action in Bay of Pigs.
He thought of the name and his son ran the place and I helped out.
I love the name.
 
One small issue noted when repositioning the baffle, is the baffle pin holes do not exactly line up, as the 3/8" gasket raises the baffle a bit more than the OEM gasket. I believe that the weight of the baffle is most likely enough to keep it in place without the pin, OR I could drill/enlarge the baffle pin holes.

Which when I relook at Hog's pictures in this thread, it appears that a second hole for the baffle pin was created?
 
One small issue noted when repositioning the baffle on the new rope gasket, is the baffle pin holes do not exactly line up, as the 3/8" gasket raises the baffle a bit more than the OEM gasket. I believe that the weight of the baffle is most likely enough to keep it in place without the pin, OR I could drill/enlarge the baffle pin holes.

Which when I relook at Hog's pictures in this thread, it appears that a second hole for the baffle pin was created?
 
madison said:
One small issue noted when repositioning the baffle, is the baffle pin holes do not exactly line up, as the 3/8" gasket raises the baffle a bit more than the OEM gasket. I believe that the weight of the baffle is most likely enough to keep it in place without the pin, OR I could drill/enlarge the baffle pin holes.

Which when I relook at Hog's pictures in this thread, it appears that a second hole for the baffle pin was created?

Actually, the offset holes on the baffle for pin were from factory, not my doing.
The gasket should compress enough to allow for the pin to be inserted.
 
PE replacement gasket, Hog style...

Hog, have you checked your gasket after one yr? Curious to see a cpl pics if you get to it.

thanx
 

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