Danfoss flow direction?

[jdkinohio]

Ahhh. Problem resolved. The more I thought about this, the more I suspected air. I had a high spot in the pipes out of the supply that I was concerned about air pockets, but thought it was flowing ok. I have a bleeder valve at the highest point in the system, but that wasn't helping the boiler side. Long story is, I went ahead and put a T on the high spot with a small ball valve about 10 inches above the supply pipe. Bled some air out and everything is working fine. Guess that explains why turning the pump off and back on would work for a few seconds. It had enough water to push through the valve, but then lost the flow.

Apparently I was a little hasty in my fill/bleed step

Thanks for all the suggestions and assistance. Great forum!!

jdkInOhio

 

[bigburner]

Cool - so do you owe Danfoss an apology? LOL Service work is easy if you can identify the problem, trained some people over the years and they always tried to apply the last jobs problems to the next job. I just called it tunnel vision, it can ruin your day. FYI we always.always,always power bleed our systems. My personal system doesn't even have an air scoop, just a couple small auto vents. I have lines that run up and over the ceiling of my shop and back down wit no place to bleed air, just don't leave any there and it's not a problem.

 

[jdkinohio]

I'm holding ground on the apology!! The main comment was the documentation, because upon closer look at the picture, it had the label backwards. (the rest was good though). From the sound of it, there are a lot that go out that way. Of course a zillion other products are screwed up in the documentation too!!

I installed my first hydronic system in my shop, which is about 30x50, two story with an office upstairs heated with baseboards. The shop floor is concrete with pex. I have several bleeders, but the one that caught the most was the upstairs (or course). I think the purging of air was too simple for that project!! I didn't spend enough effort on the house system as I should've. Maybe the single digit temps helped that out. I didn't really notice any cavitating with the pump, maybe there wasn't enough water to get to that point. When I swapped pumps, I did notice a lot less water come out then with the other pump. That probably should have been an immediate clue. duh.

Oh well. Everything's running well. I will say (for the Danfoss apology thing) that the valve is working perfect. Storage isn't up to full temp yet, but even at what I consider the lower limits, it's doing an incredible job at bringing the house temp up. Much better and faster than 4 year old gas furnace. We haven't seen temps over 70 since August! Wife is warm. Wife is happy. Life is good.

thanks

 

[Pellet_Dog]

Mine was the same way when I received it last month! The sticker was off by 90 degrees of rotation, it had a flow arrow where there was no fitting! I peeled the sticker off and the original sticker was underneath it and showed the correct flow of the valve. An easy check for the valve operation is blow into the fitting on the side (the one with no opposing fitting, this is from the bypass) and the port that the air comes out of is the return to the boiler. It looks like this sticker is put on for the U.S. market and nobody bothered checking to see if it was put on correctly. Also I ordered a 1 1/4" valve but received 1 1/2". Oh well I made it work and it works great by the way. Actually I just checked the site where I bought the valve and now they list it as 1 1/2"!

 

[Fred61]

After reviewing this thread in its entirety, I've concluded that the sticker in the photo in the original post is applied correctly. It's the plate that is installed 90* out.

 

[jdkinohio]

I agree on the plate position. It is a bit offset! The picture I posted of my valve is backwards, although mine was correct. I was surprised that the pdf where that picture came from showed the wrong decal. The advantage of that particular valve is that the casting has the identity of each side, so you shouldn't get it wrong. Actually, my stickers fell off after it warmed up.

Of course my problem was being too anxious, and brain cell deterioration.

Another question......I need to insulate my tank. What does the majority of the crowd use? I figured I'd default to fiberglass insulation, but would rather find something with equal R-value, but less bulk. I used a product on my furnace that was pretty impressive, but it was pretty expensive too. It has a bubble wrap appearance, sort of like a space blanket. Fiberglass sandwiched between an aluminum foil looking stuff. I forget what it cost a sqft, but just remembered thinking I wouldn't buy the quantity I'd need for the tank.

Suggestions?

Thanks


Update...after I posted this, I did some more searching and found more than enough info on insulation! More work ahead.

 

[bigburner]

I have read every thing on here from soup to nuts, spray foam is the product of choice for most, fiberglass being second??!! I will be using rock wool on mine, couple reasons 1 - I sometimes get my boiler very hot, it tends to break foam down after awhile and I have welded stay bolts and next time I hydro the thing i want to be able to check them- 2 This stuff is water/fire proof and mouse resistant, just nasty to work with. I finally settled on just building a box with steel studs around the boiler & tank and installing the insulation perpendicular to the studs, that will give me room for 7 to 8 inches [ will layer it with 24x48x3.5 pieces.] Then cover the studs with pole barn steel. Think most of the bugs are worked out after 2 1/3 seasons, time to add water treatment & insulation "Life is good"